vsthis
Member
Cheers mate.
Overheating!
- Thread starter vsthis
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vsthis
Member
The alloy rad cost me about $350 delivered. (came with a new cap)
The hoses were about $90 from memory
The Radiator shop charged me about $400 for fitting the new radiator, new hose clamps, brand new slimline fan, thermostat, a neutralising flush that i needed to run for about 3 days and then filled with good quality coolant when i returned the car. There was a little bit involved in fitting the new rad but they did an awesome job.
The hoses were about $90 from memory
The Radiator shop charged me about $400 for fitting the new radiator, new hose clamps, brand new slimline fan, thermostat, a neutralising flush that i needed to run for about 3 days and then filled with good quality coolant when i returned the car. There was a little bit involved in fitting the new rad but they did an awesome job.
That's a pretty good price for an alloy radiator.
Is it one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RACING-alloy...4QQihZ020QQcategoryZ43807QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Are the dimensions of yours exactly the same as the standard radiator, or is it thicker?
Is it one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RACING-alloy...4QQihZ020QQcategoryZ43807QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Are the dimensions of yours exactly the same as the standard radiator, or is it thicker?
vsthis
Member
That's the one! I was really suprised with the quality of these units. I'm wrapped.
It's definatly thicker but i didn't measure my old one before i threw it out. The new one is about 65mm on the tanks and about 55mm core.
It's definatly thicker but i didn't measure my old one before i threw it out. The new one is about 65mm on the tanks and about 55mm core.
vsthis
Member
what turbo are you running?
Heres a couple of pics of the clearences:
You might be ok cos the core is only 55mm.[/img]
Heres a couple of pics of the clearences:
You might be ok cos the core is only 55mm.[/img]
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
steve said:I was hoping it'd be stock dimensions though, I really don't think I can fit anything thicker with my turbo
modify a honda radiator!
vsthis
Member
CLuTZ said:steve said:I was hoping it'd be stock dimensions though, I really don't think I can fit anything thicker with my turbo
modify a honda radiator!
Good call!
It's a GT3076 with a 44mm external gate. I've probably only got 10mm between the turbo/manifod and the radiator, and the pressure nipple on the gate actually touches one of the end tanks, so I can't go any bigger at all. It's a function of poor manifold packaging rather than the turbo being that big (it's just a baby), however I'm not going to go and change it around now.vsthis said:
I also haven't had any problems with temperatures, even at Wakefield, so it might not be a worth the hassle.
Clutz - I've not heard of that for the mitsus - any more info?
This'll give you an idea of the space constraints I'm working with :lol:
http://gunnamotorsport.com/steve/DCP_1242-resize.JPG
http://gunnamotorsport.com/steve/DCP_1242-resize.JPG
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
steve said:I also haven't had any problems with temperatures, even at Wakefield, so it might not be a worth the hassle.
Clutz - I've not heard of that for the mitsus - any more info?
You wouldnt want one of your engine mounts to **** out, then have that engine rocking back and forth on the radiator!
Then again, if your not having any issues with it now, then you should forget about it, and worry about going faster
Do you have a davies craig fan on your radiator now??
A trick is, if you simply dont have any room in your bay for a massive turbo, is to use a honda radiator, like this:
The aftermarket alloy radiators would be at least 60% more efficient than the factory ones, so having a radiator half the size is fine, the only thing is to find one that has the ins/outs in the same position as ours, which I think the EK civic does (someone correct me if im wrong, baz?)
New solid engine mounts .. the motor isn't going anywhere. And yeah, it's got two DC fans on the front of it.
Re the radiator, my mechanic put a GT42 on a lancer and runs a GLI sized radiator (very similar sized to the honda one in that photo. It does have some heating issues after a good run, so I'd rather stay full size.
Re the radiator, my mechanic put a GT42 on a lancer and runs a GLI sized radiator (very similar sized to the honda one in that photo. It does have some heating issues after a good run, so I'd rather stay full size.
Yep, you're right. Best advice I've heard all day :lol:
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
steve said:
Is that micks motorsport?
Ive been meaning to ask someone about the solid rear 9" setup they have in that car, do you know much about it?
Im thinking about a Hilux LSD for my cyborg (which has a solid rear end)
Yeah, Mick built my car.
I don't know specific details about how the rear end is mounted, besides that it's application probably won't suit your car. The suspension all mounts up to the tube chassis rather than the lancer body, so everything would have to be different. The engine/gearbox/transfer are all mounted differently (again, to the tube frame) to suit the driveline locations.
Rob Barac might be the guy to ask for some information, I'm pretty sure he looked at converting the rear of his car to a solid axle, though I have no idea how similar the CC and CB floor pans are.
I would think it'd be reasonably straight forward for any diff shop considering it has a solid axle as standard?
I don't know specific details about how the rear end is mounted, besides that it's application probably won't suit your car. The suspension all mounts up to the tube chassis rather than the lancer body, so everything would have to be different. The engine/gearbox/transfer are all mounted differently (again, to the tube frame) to suit the driveline locations.
Rob Barac might be the guy to ask for some information, I'm pretty sure he looked at converting the rear of his car to a solid axle, though I have no idea how similar the CC and CB floor pans are.
I would think it'd be reasonably straight forward for any diff shop considering it has a solid axle as standard?
vsthis
Member
CLuTZ said:A trick is, if you simply dont have any room in your bay for a massive turbo, is to use a honda radiator, like this:
DANG! Where did you get that pic from Dre? Looks mean!!!
No way you'll fit one of those ebay alloy radiators in there steve. Thats a bloody tight fit there mate!
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
WADADLIG_EVO
Member
mimmo_gsr said:Are you sure there is no coolant leaking anywhere?
The reason I ask is after all these posts I just re-read your first post and those symptoms indicate more of a head gasket issue than a water pump one.
The only way a water pump can fail is if the housing corrodes through and starts to leak, or the blades become damaged or something (unlikely). Its not really mechanical at all, the pulley just connects to a shaft that connects to the blades...thats it, nothing to really break. If it was broken it should really be leaking coolant somewhere.
The overflow bottle issue says to me a massive increase in cooling system pressure which was perhaps brought about by a rupture in the headgasket and engine compression caused pressurisation of the cooling system...causing the overflow.
Sure there is no milky residue in the oil but all the crud in the coolant says air pressure has dislodged stuff from the cooling journals in the block.
Is there anything strange coming from the exhaust? like wet soot on the driveway when you start the car, or it spitting soot out the exhaust?
Either way if you need a head gasket, then do the cambelts and stuff at the same time as it involves the removal of the belts.
Sorry if this is causing you grief
Mimmo
Can I get some help in here too?
My car overheats and loses coolant and today I noticed the water pump is starting to look more and more corroded.
I did a compression test after the car over heated and all the compression seems to be normal around 180.
Check these pics please...
For a time my cooling system did gunk up but since I replaced the radiator top tank and drained the coolant the system has been much cleaner.
The Overflow bottle used to have some gunky stuff in the bottom of it.
Thanks for the help in advance.
I forgot to say Evo 3 engine.
WADAD
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WADADLIG_EVO
Member
Recently, the rear radiator fan closest to the turbo has stopped coming on also.
WADAD
WADAD
cblancergsr
Well-Known Member
that coolant is leaking from 1 the top hose and possibly the 2 thermostat housing gaskets
the top radiator hose might possibly have a loose clamp, soo tighten the hose clamp up and then clean the area up. if its still leaking from either of the 2 gaskets replace them.
the top radiator hose might possibly have a loose clamp, soo tighten the hose clamp up and then clean the area up. if its still leaking from either of the 2 gaskets replace them.
