Rebuild shopping list?

[vsthis]

I have recently aquired a spare 7bolt evo II motor with a blown head gasket. My plan is to rebuild it over the next 12 months or so and have it ready to drop in once the car is resprayed. The aim is for a 250-300kw atw street motor.

I would like to use forged internals. I already have some BC 272 cams, Adjustable cam gears, New revised lifters, HKS fuel rail, and engine management.

What i need is a shopping list of parts i need to aquire so i can give them all to an engine builder.

I remember there was a list on here somewhere but after searching for the last hour and a half, I cant find it. Sorry if it's a repost and i know that the people that respond will have given this list out 100s of times before. Thanks in advance.

Any builder recomendations would also be appreciated. Any idea's on what turbo setup, compression ratios and any other extra bolt on's etc i might need to reach my power goals, post up here.

 

[Richard]

I'm doing the same thing as you only a bit quicker as my car is currently off the road, so I will be interested to see how this list pans out, I have a fair idea what I am going to need but there is probly stuff I have completely forgoten about

 

[bazeng]

To get to that power reliably, you'll need:

Forged pistons
Eagle Rods - minimum
Good crank - oem will be fine
ARP head studs
ARP main studs - not sure if you need it, but why not.
Mitsu MLS Headgasket - minimum
GT30 - minimum

I'd use ACL race bearings myself.
Get your block torque plate bored / honed and depending if you want to stroke or not, you'd need to do more work to the block.

As for the build, where are you located?
Where are you getting it tuned? Try and keep the builder and tuner the same as it allows the tuner to know the limits of the motor and provides you with more security in regards to warranty etc. Otherwise the tuner will blame the builder or vice versa if things go pearshape.

 

[steve]

+1 for everything Baz has said. Just one more note, I wouldn't rush out and buy bearings and pistons without having your block and crank checked first - find your engine builder and get them to tell you what sizes you'll need. The last thing you want to do is buy standard sized pistons and find they're useless as the block needs to be (or already has been!) bored out.

 

[lozza]

+1 for everything Baz has said. Just one more note, I wouldn't rush out and buy bearings and pistons without having your block and crank checked first - find your engine builder and get them to tell you what sizes you'll need. The last thing you want to do is buy standard sized pistons and find they're useless as the block needs to be (or already has been!) bored out.

exactly! This is what happened to me. bearings are the cheapest part of the build so let the machinist get them.

If its a street car then 2.3L is worthwhile IMO for the extra torque.

These other things are worth looking into:

1. ARP vs stock main bolts - line honing required?
2. MLS h/g's - head and deck facing
3. Balance shaft/oil squirter removal ? oil pressure
4. front case - oil pump clearances?
5. freeze plugs/oil gallery plugs ?
6. head overhaul - valves, guides, compression, 3G lifters, facing etc
7. water pump
8. torque plate cylinder hone (already mentioned)
9. full balancing of rotating assembly (inc clutch)

This is a start. So start doing your research - alot of these questions only you can answer. They all have there pros and cons. What you will find is that it starts to get out of control and that buying the big ticket items such as pistons and rods are the EASIEST decisions!

If you have 12 months you can save heaps by assembling alot yourself. For example, strip it, take the block and head down to the shop. Have them crack tested/cleaned. Then take your pistons/rods/bolts etc (and crank if 2.3L). Block will be machined. Let machinist decide bearings (or if you know specify clearances). Then he can assemble short block. If you take it home, put on a stand and do the rest you will save heaps (there is still plenty to do) but take your time and learn- ask heaps of questions.

Lastly, blueprinting an engine is critical - by this i mean not just measuring clearances but also adjusting them to suit. A good machinist is worth every cent and may determine the longevity of your motor. Allow $800-1000 for machining alone.

Good luck with the build.

 

[vsthis]

What are the arguments for and against stroking it? (the engine!)

I'd really like to at least be cracking a high 11 quarter in street trim ideally.

How does a stroked motor affect turbo selection? Bigger turbo for bigger capacity? And does engine management need to be replacement stand alone? I'd like to keep factory chipped ecu with fine tuning through an SAFC.

 

[cblancergsr]

stroking a motor ables you too use a bigger turbo too pump more air into the combustion chambers which in return means it sends more fuel too cope with the amount of air being sent in

with turbo selection with a stroked motor means go to small and the motor will be laggy and too big of a turbo will also too be too laggy

 

[lozza]

with turbo selection with a stroked motor means go to small and the motor will be laggy and too big of a turbo will also too be too laggy

what?

Stroking simply provides better cylinder filling (volumetric efficiency) at lower rpm which will in turn spool bigger turbos sooner. Strokers are therefore perfect for street use due to their ability to produce alot more low rpm TORQUE. The downside is that because of the longer stroke the pistons speeds are higher and your MAX rpm is limited (say by 1000-1500rpm compared to a 2L) and there are greater piston thrust (side) loads which will wear your pistons/cylinders sooner.

In a nutshell:

If you want the ultimate DRAG car with absolute MAX rpm
--> go with 2L (non-stroker)

If you want the best STREET car with ultimate spool/torque
--> go with a 2.3/2.4L stroker

obviously, you can make either work. this is all generalised opinion.

With the stroker, there is more dicking around with clearancing the block, squirters etc. and more cost.

The turbo selection for a stroker is important - not to undersize your turbine and choke it (i think that was what cblancergsr was trying to say)

Start reading about rod ratios and you will discover why some people don't like stroking the 4G63.

Cheers