Rebuilding a GSR Gearbox

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Dr_Twist

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Joined
Apr 7, 2006
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As the title says, I killed the gearbox in my car, I have gotten my hands on another GSR box, that I am interested in rebuilding. Whats I would like to know is what the best way around doing this is? What parts should I purchased to be replaced? The box I have gotten is in average condition, so it works, however 3rd Gear Synchroe does need replacing apparently.
I am considering straight cut gears as well.

So please any information will be helpful!

Thanks, Wade.
 
id put in the evo selector forks as a minimum. See if you can track down a front and centre LSD while youre at it, theres other bits and pieces you can do too.

Mr Gears? 8)
 
1st thing - new bearings, there's alot of them, so it'll cost a fair bit, most places don't stock them so will have to order them in for you too.

2nd thing - synchro's, nothing worse than a newly rebuilt box that crunches into gear.

Evo selector forks are a good idea too.

Why straight cut gears? seems to me to be a hell of a lot of money, and the gsr/evo boxes will stand up to many 10sec passes, several have done 9's on stock boxes.
 
The GSR gearbox is prone to syncro problems, second and third gear mainly and tooth breakage on third gear. If you don't have broken teeth, then you just have to make sure that your syncros are in good shape. Check the points on the engagement teeth on the gears and sliders. Check the clearance of the syncro rings and replace where necessary. Use all new bearings and seals and take care to achieve correct bearing preloads. You can use an EVO 1-2 selector fork, but you are stuck with an alloy fork on 3-4. Check for wear and shim the freeplay in the centre diff gears and it should be a good box capable of handling a fair bit of punishment.

But the most important factor is making sure that you have maximum clutch release in order to preserve the life of your syncros.
This involves a new upgraded clutch fork, pivot ball and correct flywheel step height and correct release bearing.
 
Mr Gears said:
But the most important factor is making sure that you have maximum clutch release in order to preserve the life of your syncros.
This involves a new upgraded clutch fork, pivot ball and correct flywheel step height and correct release bearing.

Interesting..

Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?
 
JAP63 said:
Mr Gears said:
But the most important factor is making sure that you have maximum clutch release in order to preserve the life of your syncros.
This involves a new upgraded clutch fork, pivot ball and correct flywheel step height and correct release bearing.

Interesting..

Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes this intrests me as well?

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?
 
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.
 
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.
 
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.
 
Mr Gears said:
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.

I am presently looking at your website atm, i have found the Pivot ball, but the i only found is a VR4 Clutch Fork, Will this work? I have a gearbox i am getting rebuilt atm, and would like to make sure it lasts as long as possible.

Thanks.
 
Mr Gears said:
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.

I am presently looking at your website atm, i have found the Pivot ball, but the i only found is a VR4 Clutch Fork, Will this work? I have a gearbox i am getting rebuilt atm, and would like to make sure it lasts as long as possible.

Thanks.
 
Mr Gears said:
Is this the reason for most synchro failures that develop over time?
When you say Maximum clutch release.
Does that mean the clutch pedal would be nearly all the way out before it engages.?
or the opposite?

Yes a dragging clutch will destroy your syncros.
Clucth should start engaging around halfway up from the floor.

Also are all the parts you have talked about Gearbox internals or are they other parts that may connect to the box?

Yes except for the bottom paragraph.

I am presently looking at your website atm, i have found the Pivot ball, but the i only found is a VR4 Clutch Fork, Will this work? I have a gearbox i am getting rebuilt atm, and would like to make sure it lasts as long as possible.

Thanks.
 
Yes replace the fork and ball. The ones on the website suit GSR, EVO, VR4 and also FWD gearboxes. Also make sure that you use the correct release bearing and apply some high temp no melt grease to the nessecary surfaces of these components.
 
Yes replace the fork and ball. The ones on the website suit GSR, EVO, VR4 and also FWD gearboxes. Also make sure that you use the correct release bearing and apply some high temp no melt grease to the nessecary surfaces of these components.
 
Yes replace the fork and ball. The ones on the website suit GSR, EVO, VR4 and also FWD gearboxes. Also make sure that you use the correct release bearing and apply some high temp no melt grease to the nessecary surfaces of these components.
 
Mr Gears said:
Yes replace the fork and ball. The ones on the website suit GSR, EVO, VR4 and also FWD gearboxes. Also make sure that you use the correct release bearing and apply some high temp no melt grease to the nessecary surfaces of these components.

Is the Release bearing a gearbox internal or again external? As the Box is presently being rebuilt by a workshop, but when its returned I shall be putting the box in myself so I need to work out what needs to be ordered, if you could give me a list of recommended parts to replace externally would be helpful. Or are those two the only real needed replacement parts?
 

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