removing drive shafts
- Thread starter GROOV3
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khubner1
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with my old car it was a mater of disconnect the control arms pop shaft out of gearbox ( may need a screwdriver to lever them out a small spring holds them in) compress to allow it to drop. undo crown bolt(probably beter to do this first) and pop it out of it's hub. shafts should remain complete with no damaged boots.
of course i could be completly wrong so wait for a veteran to confirm first
of course i could be completly wrong so wait for a veteran to confirm first
Or you can cut the steel band around the inner cup and pull the CV out of the cup.
Personally i pop the complete shaft out from the gearbox. Its easy after you do it a couple of times.
Using a prybar, put it between the bulky part of the cup and the gearbox casing but not too far to damage the driveshaft seal, and lever outwards to pop the shaft out of the box. Its a bit tricky on the drivers side as the casing has a triangle plate right where you need to lever from. Its about getting the right angle and enough leverage to pop it out.
Oh and drain your gearbox oil first.
Personally i pop the complete shaft out from the gearbox. Its easy after you do it a couple of times.
Using a prybar, put it between the bulky part of the cup and the gearbox casing but not too far to damage the driveshaft seal, and lever outwards to pop the shaft out of the box. Its a bit tricky on the drivers side as the casing has a triangle plate right where you need to lever from. Its about getting the right angle and enough leverage to pop it out.
Oh and drain your gearbox oil first.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Easiest way is to leave it attatched by the bottom ball joint, undo the two bolts on bottom of strut you should be able to swivel it far enough out of your way then tie it off with wire....
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
As stated above, be sure to undo the nut on the end of the driveshaft before you do anything... You may need someones foot on the brakes if you already have the wheel off/ in the air, just to help crack the nut - then from there it's a piece of piss!!
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Here you go dude.... From vfaq.com......
Method 1
This method is the fastest way to do it, if you don't plan on doing any work to the axles. It does not require removing the axles from the spindles. However, if your CV boots are really dried out, this may cause them to crack, due to the extreme angle the outer CV joint is at while the axle is out. If your boots are that dried out and old, though, you should use Method 2 and follow the CV Boot VFAQ to replace the boots.
Passenger side:
Remove the tie rod cotter pin and disconnect the tie rod end
Remove the brakeline bracket from the strut
Remove the lower strut bolts (17mm)
Pull the hub down and pull the passenger axle from the transaxle. A pry bar must be used inbetween the CV joint and the transaxle to release the retaining clip on the axle end.
Pull the axle out and rotate it into the wheelwell, and wire it up to the spring/strut out of the way.
Driver side:
Remove the tie rod cotter pin and disconnect the tie rod end
Remove the brakeline bracket from the strut
Remove the lower strut bolts (17mm)
Remove the axle carrier bearing from the block
Pull the hub down and pull the driver axle out of the transaxle. This will pull the axle far enough away from the transaxle to allow removing it without the axle getting in the way.
If this works for you, use it. If you plan on replacing any of the CV joint boots, use Method 2 or 3. If you use Method 1 skip over the Method 2 and 3 sections.
Method 2
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the side you are working on (this will pull the tie rod towards the center of the car). Remove the drive axle cotter pins and nuts (this will require someone to step on the brakes while you use a long breaker bar to loosen the nuts, disregard if you loosened the nuts earlier), brakeline bracket from the strut, and lower strut bolts. Then slide the hubs away from the outer axle spline leaving the axle shaft still connected to the transaxle. Then remove the whole axle shaft. For the passenger side, there is a metal ring clip on the end of the axle. To pull the axle, put a large screwdriver or prybar between the axle end and tranny, and give it a quick jerk. It should pop the clip loose and then you slide it out of the tranny.
Method 3
Disconnect the lower control arm from the subframe (2 large bolts andtwo small nuts at the rear, 1 long bolt and nut at the front). Start with the passenger side. The control arm has one thick and one thin rubber washer at thefront attachment point.
CAUTION Be careful of the rubber washer orientation and do not lose them.
Disconnect the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut (IMPORTANT - DO NOT disconnect the brake hoses, just the bracket holding the hose to the strut).
Support the brake/hub assembly and remove the 2 lower strut bolts. The whole assembly (lower control arm/brakes/hub/drive axle) can be pulled out, disconnecting the inner CV joint from the transaxle. Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod is fully extended towards the side you are working on. A pry bar must be used inbetween the CV joint and the transaxle on the passenger side. Use some wire to hang the suspension assembly from the spring, making sure that the brake line is not stretched tight.
On the driver side everything is the same except an intermediate bearing assembly (half way down the drive axle) must be unbolted from the back of the engine block (2 bolts, 14mm). Pull the axle out of the spindle first, then unbolt this bearing assembly and pull the axle out of the transaxle.
Method 4 - not recommended
Unbolt the lower control arm balljoint from the hub, and either strike the hub right next to the balljoint until it pops loose from the hub, or use a balljoint fork to pop it loose.
This is not recommended because you can damage the balljoint boot. If you DO use a balljoint fork and tear the balljoint boot, though, you can order a boot from the dealer, it's part number MB176047 - don't let the dealer convince you that you can't order just the boot, because you can.
That should get you out of trouble!!!!
Method 1
This method is the fastest way to do it, if you don't plan on doing any work to the axles. It does not require removing the axles from the spindles. However, if your CV boots are really dried out, this may cause them to crack, due to the extreme angle the outer CV joint is at while the axle is out. If your boots are that dried out and old, though, you should use Method 2 and follow the CV Boot VFAQ to replace the boots.
Passenger side:
Remove the tie rod cotter pin and disconnect the tie rod end
Remove the brakeline bracket from the strut
Remove the lower strut bolts (17mm)
Pull the hub down and pull the passenger axle from the transaxle. A pry bar must be used inbetween the CV joint and the transaxle to release the retaining clip on the axle end.
Pull the axle out and rotate it into the wheelwell, and wire it up to the spring/strut out of the way.
Driver side:
Remove the tie rod cotter pin and disconnect the tie rod end
Remove the brakeline bracket from the strut
Remove the lower strut bolts (17mm)
Remove the axle carrier bearing from the block
Pull the hub down and pull the driver axle out of the transaxle. This will pull the axle far enough away from the transaxle to allow removing it without the axle getting in the way.
If this works for you, use it. If you plan on replacing any of the CV joint boots, use Method 2 or 3. If you use Method 1 skip over the Method 2 and 3 sections.
Method 2
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the side you are working on (this will pull the tie rod towards the center of the car). Remove the drive axle cotter pins and nuts (this will require someone to step on the brakes while you use a long breaker bar to loosen the nuts, disregard if you loosened the nuts earlier), brakeline bracket from the strut, and lower strut bolts. Then slide the hubs away from the outer axle spline leaving the axle shaft still connected to the transaxle. Then remove the whole axle shaft. For the passenger side, there is a metal ring clip on the end of the axle. To pull the axle, put a large screwdriver or prybar between the axle end and tranny, and give it a quick jerk. It should pop the clip loose and then you slide it out of the tranny.
Method 3
Disconnect the lower control arm from the subframe (2 large bolts andtwo small nuts at the rear, 1 long bolt and nut at the front). Start with the passenger side. The control arm has one thick and one thin rubber washer at thefront attachment point.
CAUTION Be careful of the rubber washer orientation and do not lose them.
Disconnect the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut (IMPORTANT - DO NOT disconnect the brake hoses, just the bracket holding the hose to the strut).
Support the brake/hub assembly and remove the 2 lower strut bolts. The whole assembly (lower control arm/brakes/hub/drive axle) can be pulled out, disconnecting the inner CV joint from the transaxle. Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod is fully extended towards the side you are working on. A pry bar must be used inbetween the CV joint and the transaxle on the passenger side. Use some wire to hang the suspension assembly from the spring, making sure that the brake line is not stretched tight.
On the driver side everything is the same except an intermediate bearing assembly (half way down the drive axle) must be unbolted from the back of the engine block (2 bolts, 14mm). Pull the axle out of the spindle first, then unbolt this bearing assembly and pull the axle out of the transaxle.
Method 4 - not recommended
Unbolt the lower control arm balljoint from the hub, and either strike the hub right next to the balljoint until it pops loose from the hub, or use a balljoint fork to pop it loose.
This is not recommended because you can damage the balljoint boot. If you DO use a balljoint fork and tear the balljoint boot, though, you can order a boot from the dealer, it's part number MB176047 - don't let the dealer convince you that you can't order just the boot, because you can.
That should get you out of trouble!!!!
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Good luck!! As Paul said,once you have done it a couple of times, it's pretty easy.
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