(RESOLVED) Getting harder to start when cold
- Thread starter Muzz66
- Start date
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OK Have switched back to BP6ES sparks .Topped up the water and drove to the servo just down the road went to start and nothing.Gave the bat terms a good scrub and away I go then I noticed I didn't replace the Radiator cap and was about to hit the freeway.Lucky Me.Thats what I did last time I cooked it.I must be getting old oh hang on I am lol. :wink: One thing I did notice was after a hard crank before I put the new sensor in, the earth lead from battery to chassis was very hot.Almost too hot to touch.Heat spells resistance to me,what do you guys think? :?Any ideas where I should look to fix the osculating idle.Only happens when the Throttle closed switch is connected.When i disconnect when running the idle is very high,I turn off and restart and idles normally so the ISC is resetting back when switched off.Oh ye this only happens when at operating temp not when cold or warm.It only started when I switched TB.The TB I bought seems like an older model than what I replaced it with.I have a couple off wires left over and a few more vac lines left over which Ive blocked off.I ran the Pollution off the vac line on the side blocking off the 2 on top of the TB.Prob just better off chasing down a 65mm Magna TB and be done with it.
my screwed idlew as a mix of 3 things.
firstly the 0 ring on the biss was leaking.
secondly the isc was fucked
lastly my exhaust mani had some massive crack in it.
got new isc, biss and headers and it ran like it wouldve back in 1992.
firstly the 0 ring on the biss was leaking.
secondly the isc was fucked
lastly my exhaust mani had some massive crack in it.
got new isc, biss and headers and it ran like it wouldve back in 1992.
gsr_granny
Member
regards the ground cable: check that the connections between the cable and the lugs are good and tight, and that there aren't any frayed wires sticking out anywhere. also make sure you've got a good connection on BOTH ends of the cable. If they're both good, then there's probably no real issue - it is going to get hot if you crank it over for a while because you're drawing heaps of current through it... That said, you could invest in some big ass cable to ground everything, maybe 2 or 0 gauge. it never hurts to have a really good ground!
Had the battery tested today and it was above min specs so prob not there.gsr_granny
Member
bummer dude! how's your fuel pressure? maybe a tiny leak in the fuel system, so when its been sitting for a while it just empties out, and then you've got to crank for a while before the fuel pressure builds up again? or i could just be talking through my a**! just getting some suggestions out there anyway...
good luck!
good luck!
This is a classic case of idle surge.All the symptoms fit perfect.I will follow the steps here and hopefully will fix the cold start issue.
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
Looking through a schematic I noticed a knock sensor and realised I dont have one fitted.What happens when no knock sensor is fitted?does the ecu go into default mode or something.I was looking at a 91 schematic and no knock sensor but I then checked out a 92 schematic and there was a sensor.How do I check which year ECU I have?
My sons car starting getting hard to start when cold, no probs when hot, I pulled the throttle body off removed the ISC Idle Speed control Servo and it was full off crap. Cleaned it up with some carby cleaner and she runs sweet now.
cblancergsr
Well-Known Member
why what exactly was wrong with your head. did you blow the headgasket
Gasket was blown between all cylinders,head was warped,valve guides were worn.Its a wonder she started at all let alone run reasonably well.Anyway fires up as soon as you hit the the starter now,runs smooth as as and up a little in power with a little shave.
cblancergsr
Well-Known Member
thats awesome well at least you sorted the problem
