RVR suspension, handling and equipment

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

dcplic.jpg


standard evo 7 KYB shocks and stock evo 7 springs with RVR tophats.

Leon - Didn't need to add the 5mm spacers on rvr between the knuckle and the bolt sides. was less then 1mm of space between them. Elongated the camber holes a bit more to give that extra camber you need, but made some bushes that were 14 OD with 12mm ID on the lathe.

zxsn41.jpg


And how the front sits now.

24v7ic0.jpg


dropped it close to 50mm with just the swap. doing the rears during the week.
 
Nice! Your knuckle does look thicker than what we have on US vans and DSMs. Very ineresting!

So this makes even easier convention for RVR guys!

Have you pushed the car down by leaning on it? It is shocking how stiff it is. I love offering people to push on it and watching their reaction :)
 
Yep it's definitely a lot stiffer on the front end, i think the tyre sidewall pushes in first before the suspension does. Hopefully doing the rears tonight or tomorrow night, then i'll get an alignment and see how it handles after that.
 
Got the missus picking me up a set of Evo 9 gear today after doing a little bit of reading. Going to use the 9 gear in the rear, and keep the 7 struts up front for now, might change them out later on.

Considering making some strut braces, i'll make up the top template on cardboard and get it laser cutout on some 2-3mm plate. It's pretty hard to get DSM stuff over here.
 
are bump stops just universal parts or specific to manufacturer of the type of strut you have installed? part numbers?

anyone running nolathane / polyurethane suspension bushes? part numbers?
 
Got the missus picking me up a set of Evo 9 gear today after doing a little bit of reading. Going to use the 9 gear in the rear, and keep the 7 struts up front for now, might change them out later on.

Considering making some strut braces, i'll make up the top template on cardboard and get it laser cutout on some 2-3mm plate. It's pretty hard to get DSM stuff over here.

You can run an evo 1-3 rear brace as long as the mounts are semi circle ;)
i run cusco front and rear, got them through streeter for $350 for both.

Now i have a question, how do you run the rear evo struts? i have evo 9 gear here and have sorted front out minus adding camber but rears im puzzled. Do i cut the lower spring perch off? and if thats the case i dont run the rear springs from the evo struts at all? what did you do re: rear springs?
Cheers
 
You can run an evo 1-3 rear brace as long as the mounts are semi circle ;)
i run cusco front and rear, got them through streeter for $350 for both.

Now i have a question, how do you run the rear evo struts? i have evo 9 gear here and have sorted front out minus adding camber but rears im puzzled. Do i cut the lower spring perch off? and if thats the case i dont run the rear springs from the evo struts at all? what did you do re: rear springs?
Cheers

No you don't need the rear evo springs, you use your stock rvr spring, as the damping and compression rate of the shock is a lot stiffer then the factory rvr shock.

Cut the rear spring perch off the Evo 9 struts.
Cut the Eyelet off the bottom of the RVR strut and weld onto the bottom of the evo 9 strut.
Either use a lowered RVR spring or cut 1/2 a loop off the stock rvr spring.
Put the RVR tophat onto the Evo 9 strut.

http://www.galantvr4...8738#Post211400
http://www.galantvr4...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

when welding the eyelet onto the evo 9 strut, make sure you keep it cool by either trailing with water and wrap the strut in a soaked towel or rag.
 
Rears are in.

IMG_0077.jpg


IMG_0107.jpg


quick drop on the ground.

IMG_0109.jpg


and then after a spin around the block.

IMG_0110.jpg


next is drop the bullbar off, and cut the support brackets.
 
Yeah a heap stiffer. I think with better tyres would be a heap better grip, but with them now it doesn't boat like it used to, and it now when it comes up on boost or any rev range doesn't try to pick the front wheels up off the ground due to no oil in the shocks lol.

Definitely happy for $150 !
 
I see that you trimmed your rear shocks.

Originally, it didn't trim the lower spring perch in the rear. I wanted to leave possibility to use it on DSMs. Bad idea... It was scraping on the wheel!
 
Trimmed my first time cause mine where rubbing on the factory struts.

Also bunged on 3mm spacers on the rear too. Pushed the wheels out a further and less chance on rubbing on shit.
 
OK, been thinking about this abit over the last few days, how on earth can i pull out some rear camber ? I've got a mean rear stance going on, but i want to get it closer to -1degree instead of the -2 and a bit i've got atm, and it's going to start chewing edges bad.

Being a trailing axle design, does anyone do camber kits ala commodores for these ?
 
I know that it doesn't seem logical, but camber does NOT cause much tire wear! It is all about toe, camber just defines where you see the wear.

I am driving with -2* in the rear and so far, it is OK (2k miles on ultra soft, Toyi RA1 tires).

I really do not see an easy way to fix it...
 
Try my rear settings when I was runing my 18 x 9.5" Rays with 245 40 18 tyres.
Total toe +6mm
Partial L +3mm
Partial R +3mm
Camber -01
The wear was fine even though it looked like a lowered VW
Cheers !
 
I'll keep looking, maybe they do a camber correction kit like the commodores.

Qualified wheel aligner and fitter for 7 years. Just having trouble finding certain things for it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top