RVR won't idle

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Lozzle

Lozzle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
130
Location
Perth, WA
Hey guys

Firstly, sorry if a repeat thread. I'm using my iPhone and can't work out how to search.

Have returned from 16 days travel to learn my RVR battery died while it sat at mum & dads place. Dad replaced the battery but when they went to bring it to my place it kept dying at low idle (at traffic lights etc)

Going to take it to a nearby auto electrics now but looking for some info on possible probs before I go. I don't wanna get stiffed :(

Guy reckons with battery replacement maybe the ecu needs to relearn? And that's why it won't idle right.
Possibly alternator?

Car has a stereo and immoby/central locking. Other than that nothing else I can think of that may of drained the battery.

Thx in advance for any insights
 
That's the ECU relearning
Best way to get it to work properly


Disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes
Reconnect the battery
fire the car over
let it idle on your driveway
once it's warm, turn the aircon on and let it idle for 5 minutes
turn it off, let it idle another 5
turn it back on in another 5 minutes
then turn it off

let it sit for 30 mins, go for a drive.

This is what I've done because my Auto HSG used to be a pain sometime and I found this was the best way for the ECU to get the idle spot on.
 
Hey matt I owe u a beer :)

Idling well but the issue now lies with my alpine deck. There's a 10v switch thing near my battery that's broken and the stereo won't work & also keeps flicking to my reverse camera screen instead of staying on the cd or radio screens.

Cheers, now to call stereo guys then get my desktop pc looked at. This is what happens when I go on holiday!?!? Ffs!!
 
Check all your fuses... and make sure your alternator isn't playing up.
If they lay idle and unused they can randomly play up from time to time
 
Took the car to a stereo place where they replaced a circuit breaker. Stereo works again (needs tuning) but this meant the battery was disconnected again. So I'm currently re-relearning the ECU.

I'll take it for an alternator regulator test this week to ensure there's nothing amiss there but it drove just as normal after I relearnt the ECU this morning so fingys are crossed.
 
MattL said:
That's the ECU relearning


This is what I've done because my Auto HSG used to be a pain sometime and I found this was the best way for the ECU to get the idle spot on.
Click to expand...


Jeez Matt- I know you are passionate about these cars, but there's no room for mis-information around here. ECU's in these cars don't 're-learn' the idle. It's highly unlikely that a bad alternator will cause idle issues either. It sounds like lozzle is having TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problems.

lhyndaithrottleposition.jpg


I would go to your throttle body, find the thing in the pic above (it should be right infront of you) and un-plug it, and see if it makes a difference. If it doesnt- you can test the one you have by measuring the voltage on the pins of the TPS. Should read between 0.45-0.55v. If it's not in this range then you will need a new one, which if buying new are fairly expensive- so you might want to go second hand. I would buy a complete second hand EVO 1-3 or VR4 throttlebody and use the TPS from that- then you have a spare ISC aswell if that ever fucks out (idle hunting symptoms). If you want to get a brand newie- there are some Hyundai's that use the same one as a 4G63T Galant, which might save you some cash.

Good thing is that they are easy to install. If buying new, then you will probably need to set it up by doing this: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm
 
Excellent then! I'll keep it on topic.

Can you please explain the TPS issues you're explaining and how it related to the ECU and how it's not the "cause" and that the ECU doesn't re-learn. I'm curious as I'm happy to eat my humble pie.
 
Matt_ said:
Can you please explain the TPS issues you're explaining and how it related to the ECU and how it's not the "cause" and that the ECU doesn't re-learn. I'm curious as I'm happy to eat my humble pie.
Click to expand...

Struggling to figure out if there's 1, 2 or 4 questions in that sentence
 
Hopefully I get this right but Clutz feel free to tell us if I am wrong. The TPS not only tells the ecu the throttle position but also control the idle switch for the ecu - this was separate in early VR4's – hence the need to ascertain its condition. The voltage for this should read 0.55V closed and 5V at 100% throttle. If not you will need to adjust its location as per Clutz’s link. However prior to all this adjustment a boost leak test would be my recommendation to make sure the system is as it should be.

Secondly is the ISC – this sits under the throttle body and controls the idle of the car depending on load and external conditions. The value for this motor varies from 0-120 steps and should live at 30 when the vehicle is warm and idling with no load (fans, etc). This value can only be achieved by altering the BISS on the throttle body.

Achieving the value of 30 gives the stepper motor in the ISC the required range to control the idle. The learn idle adjust you are referring to Matt should then hover around 140 if all the aforementioned conditions are correct. However this feature of the ECU only achieves to obtain the idle value programmed into the ecu and nothing more – it does this by altering the position of the ISC – see the dependant relationship.

As such if all of the above conditions are not met then the ability of the ecu to control idle is compromised and the ecu no longer does a decent job.

I only know the above as this is what I had to go through recently for my RVR – funny thing is about the same time as your Loz.

Again if I am wrong the n Clutz please correct us but Loz I suggest you find someone with the required scan tools to set the car up correctly – I can only do it with ECM link which makes my life easier than you.
 
I'm currently having issues where when at idle the car is revving at 2000rpm or sometimes slightly higher. Also when rolling along to a stop with the foot on the clutch, the car revs up and down between 1500 and 2000rpm. Then when you come to a stop, the car reverts back to 2000rpm.

The car idles a little high when first started cold. Around 1500rpm. But only after a few minutes of driving, the idle starts playing up again.

Would the TPS be the likely cause of why the car is doing this?

Any ideas?
 
I had similar problems. It was a multitude of things, but it sounds like you have no temperature compensation for a start. It should idle high when cold and slow down as it warms up.
If you agree that yours is like having a choke stuck on in that it idles low when started and gets higher as it warms up, then part of your issue could be the part of the throttle body that the water goes into.
Mine was jammed and wouldn't compensate for temp change

I reckon if someone with ecmlink is given a complete throttle body, they could plug it in and set it all up, then return it.
 
Shorty said:
I'm currently having issues where when at idle the car is revving at 2000rpm or sometimes slightly higher. Also when rolling along to a stop with the foot on the clutch, the car revs up and down between 1500 and 2000rpm. Then when you come to a stop, the car reverts back to 2000rpm.

The car idles a little high when first started cold. Around 1500rpm. But only after a few minutes of driving, the idle starts playing up again.

Would the TPS be the likely cause of why the car is doing this?

Any ideas?
Click to expand...


I have this exact problem too !! And it's been fustrating. At first I thought it was a dodge battery ( thought it was idling higher to try and and recharge ), but replaced it and it went away for 2 months. It's happened again since, I just d/c'd the battery, pumped the brake a few times ( to kill any power left in the circuit ) and left it for 10 mins, came back plugged it in and it's fine. I wonder if the ECU is throwing codes and I'm just clearing them and it's fine again.

Either way it works ! Just got to fix my Idle up for when the Climate Control is on, when I roll to a sign and put the clutch in it cuts the motor.
 
CLuTZ said:
Jeez Matt- I know you are passionate about these cars, but there's no room for mis-information around here. ECU's in these cars don't 're-learn' the idle. It's highly unlikely that a bad alternator will cause idle issues either. It sounds like lozzle is having TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problems.

lhyndaithrottleposition.jpg


I would go to your throttle body, find the thing in the pic above (it should be right infront of you) and un-plug it, and see if it makes a difference. If it doesnt- you can test the one you have by measuring the voltage on the pins of the TPS. Should read between 0.45-0.55v. If it's not in this range then you will need a new one, which if buying new are fairly expensive- so you might want to go second hand. I would buy a complete second hand EVO 1-3 or VR4 throttlebody and use the TPS from that- then you have a spare ISC aswell if that ever fucks out (idle hunting symptoms). If you want to get a brand newie- there are some Hyundai's that use the same one as a 4G63T Galant, which might save you some cash.

Good thing is that they are easy to install. If buying new, then you will probably need to set it up by doing this: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm
Click to expand...


TPS. go to wreckers you can use one from a magna, take an ohm meter it shoukd be 4 to 5 ohms between terminals (only 6 terninals so terms 1 to 2 , 3 to 4 , 5 to 6) cost me $6 for one. If a ciol is open circuit it is no good.
 

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