RWC do it yourself

[maccavr4]

hey guys i hada roady done on my car 2day its unredg and i would like it to be normal stuff i guess

wheels 2 large (i have the stockies)

RIde hight recuirs check after stockys are fitted

vehicle has 2 intake mods may only have i
increased size intercooler, pod filter(what would be easyest to change for the day does anyone have a standard air box setup i can borrow for the day as when i get roady will be changing things back or intercooler

abs 4ws light stays on (how do i fix this)

both front inerdrive shaft boots leak (anyone know what they are worth)

boost adjuster (its a bleed tap style under bonnet do i just unplug it)

Blow off valve to be removed do i just unscrew it will it be ok like that

boost gauge i will just remove that

turbo timer also remove it

bonnet lining adrift will glue back down

in car computer (car will not run with out this so i will try to hide it somewhere)

thats realy about it i have to steam clean the engine as i had a dipstick pop up and oil went everywhere problem fixed now but

any help would be greatly appresiated and if anyone wants to help that would be great beers on me

 

[bazeng]

wheels 2 large (i have the stockies)
- put stockies on

RIde hight recuirs check after stockys are fitted
- as above, then check

vehicle has 2 intake mods may only have i
increased size intercooler, pod filter(what would be easyest to change for the day does anyone have a standard air box setup i can borrow for the day as when i get roady will be changing things back or intercooler
- get a stock intake pipe / air box / afm / plug into loom

abs 4ws light stays on (how do i fix this)
- u can do a dodgy and take out the dash and remove that bulb

both front inerdrive shaft boots leak (anyone know what they are worth)
- rebuild the drive shafts, about 130 each or so..

boost adjuster (its a bleed tap style under bonnet do i just unplug it)
- remove and reinstall normal hose

Blow off valve to be removed do i just unscrew it will it be ok like that
- remove and block off

boost gauge i will just remove that
- remove and block off line

turbo timer also remove it
- remove temporarily or hide and turn it off / or just cut the + line so it doesn't work and u can resolder it after

bonnet lining adrift will glue back down
- glue like u said

in car computer (car will not run with out this so i will try to hide it somewhere)
- gotta hide it, gonna be a pain to remove

thats realy about it i have to steam clean the engine as i had a dipstick pop up and oil went everywhere problem fixed now but

any help would be greatly appresiated and if anyone wants to help that would be great beers on me

 

[maccavr4]

oil

oil catch can wat do i put in its place

 

[Entaran]

plumb the lines back to stock where they are supposed to be.

 

[maccavr4]

cooler

i think it might be easyer to put standard cool back in you are aloud to have bigger cooler or pod filter not both \

do you have a stock cooler

 

[maccavr4]

also with the boost controller you pull the 2 hoses of and then what do nyou do with the hoses i realy have no idea

 

[ZedEx]

also with the boost controller you pull the 2 hoses of and then what do nyou do with the hoses i realy have no idea

Join em

 

[maccavr4]

sweet

how do you pull the dash out

wat is the easyest way to pull the front bar of and when i take the blow of vaulve of wat do i block it with

you help has been great so far guys thanx a bunch

 

[maccavr4]

Update

this is all have left to do

wheels and tyres
rise height (hopeing that it is ok)
Intercooler Does anyone have a stock one i can borrow for a day or buy need it within 7days would be much apreeciated
inner front drive shaft boots
steam clean engine
blow off vaulve
hide computer
that is all

so get typeing and help me get this done please





also there is a catch can that is connected to the head dont know if its oil or petrol it smeels like petrol i need to remove it but dnt know wat to do with the noozel that is on the head its onthe drivers side of the engine

 

[BobWrinkle]

catch can should go to 2 nozzels on the cam cover, blumb them back to the stock things, (intake manifold, intake pipe.)

 

[bazeng]

catch can, pull it out and run them to the intake..
the top one goes to the inlet manifold
the one of the left (looking from the front) goes into the turbo intake pipe

why change your cooler man? more work.. just put in the stock intake pipe and filter box etc etc...

 

[maccavr4]

when i take the mags of to put stock wheeels back one i need the stock wheel nuts where do i get them from

 

[bazeng]

u can get them new from autobarn or mitsu
or u can get them used from the wreckers (any galant / lancer im assuming)

 

[EVO-00X]

I dont agree with a few of those items listed as not being roadworthy but you can always pay $300-$400 to get your car engineered and EPA tested as is with the big wheels, icoola and intake mods, turbo timer, you name it. ... then tell the authorities to stick it up their ass!! If you dont have many mods you'll pass EPA no problems :wink:

 

[doommachine]

Ah, man.. okay if you need a stock BOV, I have a spare. I'd be happy to lend it to you for your RWC . Replacing the BOV with a stocky will be much easier than finding a stock intercooler for an A-Spec, plus all the pipes to make it fit.

But, your biggest problem is your intake pipe. Is your carbon canister connected to anything? When you go back, if it's not, they will probably pick it up. Basically you need to either attach two inlets to the pipe which connects to your pod, or get a stock intake pipe. It looks like the pipe that goes to your throttle body would interfere with the stock intake pipe.. I dunno.. anyway connect the carbon canister to one opening and the other to the pipe from your head (PCV inlet). Also, if you get the intake pipe modified, add an extra inlet for the BOV to recirculate into.

As far as hiding the computer, just hide it behind the stereo. Unscrew the trim on the passenger side (pedals aren't in the way ) basically the part that goes from the console to the firewall. Theres a big gap there, your ECU should fit no worries.

Did they ask to see that you have a stock computer in there still? Pop out your glovebox and look to see if it's still there.. if they're as hardcore as they are in SA they will want to be sure you have a stock computer in the original position. They might want to check the numbers on it too (to make sure it isn't a powerFC).

As far as ride height, measure from the centre of your wheel to the top of the arch. On a VR4 the legal eyebrow heights are 370mm front, 340mm rear. Also, get a stick that's exactly 10cm long, park your car on some concrete, and see if theres any point that the stick won't fit in. Check the exhaust especially.

Remove your boost contoller entirely. Pull the wires that go to it back to the firewall and tape it into the loom. Also unplug and remove the contoller from the car. Just cable tie the wires and tape them up inside the dash.

Connect the wastegate actuator to the nipple on the turbo outlet. You could get a boost control solenoid and make it look all stock but I doubt they will know any better.

Ah, additionally, you should definitely get a stock airbox and you should definitely attempt to make it look like you have a connected and functional MAF. I don't know what to do if they decide they want to unplug it, you're basically screwed then, but perhaps if it looks stock they will leave it alone. They will know that you haven't removed the computer if you have the airbox and the MAF plug is just sitting there all empty.

Leave the intercooler, but make sure that if the bumper has been cut, that you grill it out. Metal cut = defect.