set up a pod for rvr turbo

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

6-7psi???
should be atleast 11.

checked your bov, and wastegate actuator?
May not be boost cut but just a failing mechanical device.
 
alright i shall check if it after right now my car was doing a head recondition due to some oil leak blown head gasket.... well the head looks brand new again.... gonna go see it today and give my mate a hand... hope by this week its back on the road running smooth again
 
Mine runs 14PSI Stock and handles it without an issue, running a K&N Panel in the stock setup. I've not hit boost cut, Only once have I been in a car that hit boost cut, and you'll know when you hit it, hah... oh boy do you know it haha

Infact, I dialed it to 19 the other week to try it out, and didnt hit cut either. Dialed it back to 14 again though.
 
I think he means from the Overhead to front mount. If that's the case... msg tborvr on this board, he's done a SSG->HSG Conversion on his car basically, and has done a good job on it. You should see if he still has the pics and all the stuff to show how he did it.
 
tborvr said:
thats because your ecu is chiped :rolleyes:
Not at the moment but soon to be.
RVR ECUs are tuned good. The load in the maps is going up to level that will support around 25psi of boost with stock turbos.
His HSG having a small TD04 turbo is not flowing a lot of air so with 19psi he was running equal to around 16psi for manual TD05 or even less. TD05 will boost cut around 18psi depending on weather conditions: Intake Air temp. and density of air.
I'm testing mine now and 3rd gear is pushing 1.6bar of boost with TD05 big 16G plus 20G inlet wheel and just hitting top of the timing map loads. I've got the code to rescale the top of the map for more load if needed but I don't want to do it for now knowing that it's just hitting the top. :)
 
pod filter

Pod filter??? why bother??? stuffed around with one on my old 6.5 with a custom box and just made slightly more engine noise and left obvious wear marks on the turbo impellor from all the crap that it let in. And yes it was a big brand pod! Open up the intake pipe (as suggested) to your factory box . One less defect and thats why Im not changing my rvr factory box.
 
warbo said:
Pod filter??? why bother??? stuffed around with one on my old 6.5 with a custom box and just made slightly more engine noise and left obvious wear marks on the turbo impellor from all the crap that it let in. And yes it was a big brand pod! Open up the intake pipe (as suggested) to your factory box . One less defect and that's why I'm not changing my rvr factory box.
There was a test around somwhere about pods, their flow and what they filtered out. the hks pods were junk i remember! (A bit like their blue and purple cam gears that wear away) k&n were pretty decent on both fronts.

I ask you this, if you are using a decent filter, how is it any different how much solid particles wear away you turbo, if you are using the same brand pod or panel filter?

If you go from a bad filtering pod to a good filtering element panel int he stock box i see the point.


Can anyone give the the Height X Width measurements of an evo/magna panel filter element? I was goint to work out the SA difference between this and a pod, never got around to it. If its close i'm thinking of going a hacked magna airbox for stealth, and have a big pipe underneath feeding it.
I was also discussing with craig the idea if the airflow through the stock airbox element fed by a nice big pipe would be less turbulent and smoother compared to;

A pipe feeding one side on an airbox, swirling around with more pressure on one side, and getting through the pod element then down the pipe.
I dunno it was just a thought, if the surface area of an panel was comparable to a pod it could be better.
 
I think it would be hard to make the flow less turbulent and i dont see much gain in making it laminar.

From what i study, turbulent is determined by Reynold's number which is controlled by 4 variable;
Air flow speed, diameter of pipe that air flows through, density and dynamic viscosity.

Out of this 4 variable, 3 are constant variables or unable to control variables and the only 1 that can be control is diameter.

Increasing diameter = turbulent, reducing = laminar. This is based on the equation, ( Air velocity X Diameter X Density) / dynamic viscosity.

Reducing diameter will make it laminar but causing lesser air flow as well therefore i dont think making a laminar flow will help much as tons of effort is required for a little gain.

Just my 2cents.
 
vr401 said:
Not at the moment but soon to be.
RVR ECUs are tuned good. The load in the maps is going up to level that will support around 25psi of boost with stock turbos.
His HSG having a small TD04 turbo is not flowing a lot of air so with 19psi he was running equal to around 16psi for manual TD05 or even less. TD05 will boost cut around 18psi depending on weather conditions: Intake Air temp. and density of air.
I'm testing mine now and 3rd gear is pushing 1.6bar of boost with TD05 big 16G plus 20G inlet wheel and just hitting top of the timing map loads. I've got the code to rescale the top of the map for more load if needed but I don't want to do it for now knowing that it's just hitting the top. :)

i can back that up also, when i installed a Gizzmo IBC and it had a faulty solenoid causing free boosting on the completely factory setup TD04H and all we hit a good 25psi atleast in 3rd lol only did that once :p

also vr401, im in NZ and have been told by many that the RVR ECU cant be chipped, with this chip of yours will you be able to change the base fuel maps to then be tuned further with an SAFC?? as im maxing out the current tunability of the base maps at 12.5psi (this is with 500hp walbro and 510s)
 
syco_rvr said:
i can back that up also, when i installed a Gizzmo IBC and it had a faulty solenoid causing free boosting on the completely factory setup TD04H and all we hit a good 25psi atleast in 3rd lol only did that once :p

also vr401, im in NZ and have been told by many that the RVR ECU cant be chipped, with this chip of yours will you be able to change the base fuel maps to then be tuned further with an SAFC?? as im maxing out the current tunability of the base maps at 12.5psi (this is with 500hp walbro and 510s)

Rvr ecu can be chip same way as VR4 and Evo1-3.
As for your problem, it's not the fuel maps that does it, it's your 510 injectors maxing out at max duty cycle. You would need a bigger injectors to go further with tuning. I can do a chip for you so you can just fine tune the fuel mixtures or even provide you with xdf file that you use with tunerpro so you can fine tune the fuel and timing maps yourself eliminating the use of safc. You would need some kind of tuning software/harware to do this ( tunerpro, evoscan, chip burner or ostrich emulator, wideband)

Cheers,
Miodrag
 
So with bigger injectors and keeping the use of the SAFC i will be able to run more boost = more power?? :thumbsup:

Also that is a nice HSG you have there, its a shame its auto.

how much power are/where you making and at what boost when you ran the 13.6??

Got Drags not this weekend but next :thumbsup: should be interesting for 1st time down the strip :D
 
So with bigger injectors and keeping the use of the SAFC i will be able to run more boost = more power?? :thumbsup:

Also that is a nice HSG you have there, its a shame its auto.

how much power are/where you making and at what boost when you ran the 13.6??

Got Drags not this weekend but next :thumbsup: should be interesting for 1st time down the strip :D

You could run a bit more boost but you'll hit boost cut at some point. More boost is equal to more power but with proper tune. In your case running stock ecu it may start causing more knocks and that will end up making rather less power then more, due to a fact that ecu will retard the timing under any high knock readings.
I was running around 17-18psi doing that 1/4 mile time. Car was dynoed at around 160kw.
Let us know how did you go down the strip.
 
You could run a bit more boost but you'll hit boost cut at some point.

sorry only havin had a couple of turbo cars i dont quite understand the term boost cut, as previously i have hit 25psi would this mean i could do that again (dont worry not that i would lol) or is it more to do with the air and fuel mix that is in the engine at a certain point?? at a guess what would you be thinking boost cut would be around as i wouldnt be looking to run anymore than you have say 18psi

More boost is equal to more power but with proper tune. In your case running stock ecu it may start causing more knocks and that will end up making rather less power then more, due to a fact that ecu will retard the timing under any high knock readings.

also would the SAFC once re-tuned eliminate these possible knocks or would i need a tunable ecu something like an ECMLink??

thanks for the help

and yes will hopefully chuck up a couple of videos and pics of the car with build specs after the drags :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top