Short block assembly

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Benzo4gT

Benzo4gT

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Joined
Mar 23, 2012
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The home of unemployed bogans - Hervey bay,
Hi all, I about to assemble my forged short block and I'm wondering if I should use form a gasket or order the gaskets that come with a kit. I'm adept with gasket goo and have done heaps of other cars

with it, but my query is directed at a '63. Are there any reasons to not use it and get proper gaskets?

The other thing I'm wondering about is oil squirter detete when used with a knife edge crank, will there be enough oil getting splashed on to the wrist pins and bores. All of the rotating assembly is

forged, the pistons have been ceramic coated and have dry film coated sides.

Any experience with this type of setup would be greatly appreciated. I know there are billions of threads about the oil squirter delete, and I have read them, but I'd like to know the ramifications of using

this type of crank with emphasis on the amount of oil that will be flung from the crank while running no squirters.
 
When I built my 6-bolt 2.3 bottom end I kept the oil squirters. I figured if they were good enough for Mitsubishi to keep after spending millions on development then they were good enough for me to keep in my build.

I know DOUGMO has deleted his oil squirters in his 7-bolt 2.3 bottom end though.
 
ENGINR said:
When I built my 6-bolt 2.3 bottom end I kept the oil squirters. I figured if they were good enough for Mitsubishi to keep after spending millions on development then they were good enough for me to keep in my build.

I know DOUGMO has deleted his oil squirters in his 7-bolt 2.3 bottom end though.
Click to expand...
Did you keep the balance shafts too?
 
My main concern is whether enough oil will end up towards the piston skirts, if indeed it at all needs to as much due to being forged.

Does the extra oil being forced out of the main bearings get flung up there? The crank is designed to minimise windage hence my query.

The block that's being used has very obvious signs of crankwalk, that's why the guy put in an RVR engine, he couldn't afford getting it rebuilt and surrendered it to the shop who then sold it to me.
 
I would use proper gaskets if I was you Ben. I know your chomping at the bit to get it back together but donit right the first time. That way you can drop it in and drive it and enjoy!
 
leon r said:
Which gasket are you talking about?

Which style of squirters do you have?
Click to expand...
Front cover gasket, oil pickup and sump gasket and oil seals. Valve cover gasket is new, stem seals are new, HG will be an MMC or cometic.

I have the check valve type, safe to say mine are hammered, they all open at low pressure and are not consistent. The evidence of crankwalk on the block is scary.
 
You are breaking one of DSMer's top commandments: "thy shall not rebuild a crankwalking block"!!! :). How bad was the thrust play?

Too bad you are on other side of a planet, I sitting on '96 block with no CW, which I can't sell for $50!

I use aftermarket gaskets all the time. They seem to work just fine. I use sprayed on, tacky sealer on front case, oil housing and water pump gaskets. RTV makes too much mess there, plus you want to keep the contaminants away from any oil passages.

If I was reusing a CW'ed block (which I will never do again...) I would just plug up the oil squirters.
 
Use hylomar spray on both sides of each of the paper gaskets. CLEAN ALL MATING SURFACES WITH METHO BEFOREHAND.

With the valve cover seal, even when new, run a small smooth bead of "flexible" gasket sealer around it. I use Threebond No.1 Grey. I use this same stuff on my transmission, transfer case, rear diff and sumps. When it dries its very flexible like balloon rubber. It does not harden and vibrate out causing leaks like normal mainstream RTV does.

With the waterpump gasket you can use hylomar or copper spray because you want to make sure the bitch never leaks between engine rebuilds.

Dont use a Cometic HG. Use Mitsu MLS!!!

What makes you think the block has evidence of crankwalk? any pics of the main journal side wall of the crank and the block?

I dont like normal RVR blocks with the small bullet style oil squirters if there is a manual transmission behind it because they will crankwalk with a hd clutch. Auto transmission is OK.
 
Crankwalk usually doesn't damage the block, but... Depending on which crankwalk theory you subscribe to, a "bad" block can cause the crankwalk. For that reason, most people do not rebuild crankwalked blocks! Used block is $50-$200, why risk $2000-$4000 engine rebuild over such cheap item.

But please tell me you didn't weld/cut the crank :).

I had good with the thicker (HP) Cometic gaskets, as well as factory MLS, the trick is to use smoothest surface possible! As close to mirrow as your shop can give you. I cringe when machinists tell me: "you NED a little texture for head to seat". Composite gaskets might like it, but not metal gametes!
 
Going by how ludicrously weak the squirter springs are, I'd say they would be the main issue. The head had fire ring marks on it so the previous owner must have put some boost into it, also, the original crank had tons of hard tar like

chunks come out of the journals which indicated to me it had lived a hard life. With weak/hung open squiters and daily start/stop traffic plus driving with a heavy clutch, it's easy to see how this might have happened. I blame squirters on

this one :)

I am not using the OEM crank.

The top of the block is dead smooth but not shiny
 
Benzo, the pics of your block on the thrust area look a bit of a worry.. It would be a brave person to use that block ??
 

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