Short block assembly

[EVO-00X]

What does the block look like when the new bearing is seated into position? does the bearing have any play at all? Ultimately youre going to have to put all bearings in place and seat the crank and cradle into position and check the crank's end play/float to the specs in the workshop manual. If theres too much play with new bearings then you have issues in the first i stance. As mentioned the crank is usually worn and warped like an old brake rotor there, unless it seriously disintegrated the bearing too and had a shitload of play in it. If your own checks turned out OK and within tolerance its time to get it double checked. I never do my own machining period (oops I tell a lie - I did a quick stone hone job on the bores and piston rings change on my Nimbus engine lol Over 60k kms and going strong lol). Home garage mechanics can assemble no problems but they are setting themselves up for failure if they think they have what it takes to do precision machining at home. I always hand a block, crank (fitted with mains girdle or caps), rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate to a machinist to do the checks properly and balance all the rotating assemblies, boring, line boring, honing and surface machining. You can get them to check piston to bore clearance too and even fit the pistons to the rods if youre not confident to diy. Best tell them to check the crank endplay first just in case the buck stops there.
Definitely get the squirters sorted out. Im not sure of when they should open, perhaps the 4G63 workshop manual has some info about checking their functionality. Look in the tech stickies of GSR/EVO section.
Some people prefer a mirror quality surface for headgaskets but others prefer a machined matte surface so the hg surface coatings can stick to and seal onto the head and block deck.
Long winded lost I know but Im in a hospital bed and bored shitless lol

 

[Benzo4gT]

Yeah man, hospital sucks, there is only so much daytime tv you can take before you feel like jumping out a window

All the shortblock assembly machining was done by Jack Bros, torque hone, line hone, hot tank, crack test pistons pins and rods, thermojet wash, rottler machined block surface, crank polish, full balance including clutch and

HB, measured piston clearance (4 thou as I told them I was coating them which adds just under 1 thou to the piston so I have 3.xx thou effective clearance), they also performed a trial fit for bearing clearances and deck height.

I also have ARP studs for crank and head. The crank is NOT the one that was in when CW happened.

The squirters are shagged, I won't be using them, looking at other's builds I feel they are not necessary on this build, ceramic coated forged pistons will dissipate heat enough.

I will check for any end play when I assemble it.