Street Tuning a Vehicle

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Rumbuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2011
Messages
180
Location
Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia
Hey guys,

Well, gonna order my new Link G4 Stom ECU in the next few days, once I get a "just running" tune punched in by the mechanics down south that know nothing about EFI, and get it to Darwin, I was gonna head out onto the street (after fixing some things) and then getting it going with a good street tune.

My reasoning for this is a few reasons:

1. Good base tune is nice, dyno could do that...but...
a) My vehicle is as aerodynamic as a brick, what may work standing still, may not work moving
B) My vehicle gets an awesome suction going over the tray, so she gets light in the ass end
2. An unladen tune can be great, have the car running like a pearl...drop 600kg in the back end, then what will my nice dyno tune do??

So...............

What are some good points to note? Some good references? Street tuning manuals? How-to's?? I'm a bit in the dark here as to how to tune something thats...not carby...A lot of these numbers mean nothing to me cos, well, I don't play with numbers normally, I play with a couple of spanners and screwdrivers to do a tune...

Also, anything I should know about limits to a 4G63, like, "don't advance spark beyond xx" or "Don't run an AFM (?) below xx)

-Rumbuck
 
Your tune mainly consist of load points and rpm. You just need to ensure that you tune on as many practical load points as possible.
Your additional weight will not cause any issues if tuned correctly.

example: with no weight in your tray, you hit 4000rpm at 10psi. Without the weight, you hit 4000rpm at 8psi. (less weight equals less load and less time for the turbo to spool.. Think of driving up Hill. You are going through the same load points but staying on that cell for a longer duration. This makes it more critical to get all load points tuned.

It would be more critical for you to use a dyno rather than street due to your variation in weight of vehicle.

I'm typing from my phone and it is hard.... How it helps
 
I have the ecmlink in my ecu so you can compare 2/3 gear pulls for comparison. Also I have a gtech pro, that is a 1/4 mile in a box. But it will time a 2nd gear pull as well as give dyno readings and cornering g force as well. Is a awesome bit of kit.
 
get yourself a copy of:

Engine Management Advanced tuning by Greg Banish

read this cover to cover

if you actually understand it -> go buy yourself a wideband O2 meter and laptop

if not -> take it to someone else

find a mild to moderate grade hill 1-2km long in your area

make sure you have someone to drive while you tune

good luck!
 
+1 to lozza.
I have done the idle and cruise myself.
But may leave the full throttle stuff to a dyno. At least if most of it is done, it will keep the dyno time down.
But a wideband is a must. I have a innovate ltm-x? From a Aussie eBay seller, it comes with a gauge.

But as you are na, full throttle pulls won't be as bad as 20psi pulls. Lol

And find a hill, good luck with that...
 
I street tuned my vr4 4g63 that i put in the MGB, i use a haltech so there is no knock sensor to save me from a bad tune,for the last ten years i have run mine pretty conservatively at no more than 17deg btdc at 14psi boost . But before boost i can bring the advance around 36 degrees and fuel injectors you will have to see if you run in sequential or batch fire. I had to run batch fire cause with 450cc injectors i ran out of fuel at 6psi boost in sequential mode, batch fire just runs my injectors in two pairs,i could probably snapshot my 3d map but you need to see about how your injectors are run. I am assuming that this is an aftermarket computer ,and not a chip like ecmlink
 

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