BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
it works.....and works very well I might add. Just how long it lasts is the question....
stroker question
- Thread starter bps79
- Start date
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F W I W the petrol Tritons are 100 stroke and seem to last forever in the tradies utes so it seems that wear/scuffing side loads on the piston skirts is no major drama. IMHO high zinc oil should to help minimise skirt scuffing. I just love the torque the stroker makes .
of course petrol tritons with 100 stroke will last forever - they only produce 194Nm and 5250rpm max revs. i think you will find 4-500Nm and 8000rpm a different matter all together ! with these sorts of pistons speeds and thrust loads, there will be a dramatic effect on engine life
that's not stopping me btw :thumbsup:
of course petrol tritons with 100 stroke will last forever - they only produce 194Nm and 5250rpm max revs. i think you will find 4-500Nm and 8000rpm a different matter all together ! with these sorts of pistons speeds and thrust loads, there will be a dramatic effect on engine life
that's not stopping me btw :thumbsup:
I have 580 nm atw and app 7000k's on my stroker atm and I have a 7200rpm limiter.I think you will find that you won't need to rev it to 8k like a 2.0.
regardless of personal or individual experiences and everything else being equal - a stroked 2.3L is as "safe" as a stock 2L, but with 1000rpm LESS.
So if you think your current 2L engine combo is "safe" at, say, 7500rpm - then your new 2.3L combo will be just as safe at 6500rpm (same mods). However, you need to be more exacting when building a 2.3L - (static balance eg piston weights, ptw clearance). This is not my personal experience, these are the facts from the excellent kidzuku article already referenced before. Everyone should read it.
There have been many successes and failures with strokers, this has not scared me away, because I believe for my use (street) the pros outway the cons. However, the trouble is that - how do you determine whether a motor is safe at x rpm? Different engine builders, different machining clearances/tolerances, shit in your oil, fuel - stuff you can't always control.
Anyway, my personal preference is 2.3L stroker for street, 2.0L for drag.
So if you think your current 2L engine combo is "safe" at, say, 7500rpm - then your new 2.3L combo will be just as safe at 6500rpm (same mods). However, you need to be more exacting when building a 2.3L - (static balance eg piston weights, ptw clearance). This is not my personal experience, these are the facts from the excellent kidzuku article already referenced before. Everyone should read it.
There have been many successes and failures with strokers, this has not scared me away, because I believe for my use (street) the pros outway the cons. However, the trouble is that - how do you determine whether a motor is safe at x rpm? Different engine builders, different machining clearances/tolerances, shit in your oil, fuel - stuff you can't always control.
Anyway, my personal preference is 2.3L stroker for street, 2.0L for drag.
David Buschur agrees as well
4piknup
master of none
I'm taking all I can, if that means 6mm extra deck height to run a 2.4, then I will make it fit.
:thumbsup:
Stroke the G4CS to a 2.6!!!! :w00t:
4piknup
master of none
What's that? 112mm custom crank. That would have to be close to hitting everything in the bottom end.
May have been answered (but I missed it):
Regarding rod clearance / interference when using a 100mm crank in a 4g63 block:
1/ What aftermarket rods are known to be the best for this application (i.e. minimal interference issues)
2/ What is the extent of material required to be removed due to interference? Anyone got pics or a Youtube video link?
Cheers
Alex
Regarding rod clearance / interference when using a 100mm crank in a 4g63 block:
1/ What aftermarket rods are known to be the best for this application (i.e. minimal interference issues)
2/ What is the extent of material required to be removed due to interference? Anyone got pics or a Youtube video link?
Cheers
Alex
Nice, DIY... Shouldnt of asked true, lol
All ya need to do to gain clearance is dummy fit the rotating assembly with pistons 1 & 4 grind ya clearance then 2 & 3 and die grind them,
id look at I beams anyway, heavier but strong,
have ya decided on what crank/ rod and piston combo yet?
All ya need to do to gain clearance is dummy fit the rotating assembly with pistons 1 & 4 grind ya clearance then 2 & 3 and die grind them,
id look at I beams anyway, heavier but strong,
have ya decided on what crank/ rod and piston combo yet?
Re the clearance question, have a look at pages 3 & 4 on this thread. Was an eagle 100mm stroker kit. Think you will find all the block castings will all be slightly different so there's no certainty that any combination will fit. Not hard to clearance with a die grinder thou.
http://www.4gtuner.com/index.php?/topic/22164-Looking-for-a-4G63-to-rebuild%2E/page__view__findpost__p__272870
http://www.4gtuner.com/index.php?/topic/22164-Looking-for-a-4G63-to-rebuild%2E/page__view__findpost__p__272870
