caged
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with them unless you don't change your oil, I've run all my 93's on wrx filters. Well over 120 1/4 mile passes and one of the fastest unopened 93's on stock ECU.
td05 on 4g93
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Nothing wrong with them unless you don't change your oil, I've run all my 93's on wrx filters. Well over 120 1/4 mile passes and one of the fastest unopened 93's on stock ECU.
khubner1
Moderator
i'd still be worried about heat it really is a poor location for the filter to be
4piknup
master of none
What has that got to do with a oil filter running in bypass? I have no doubt about your track record.
If your engine dislodges a bit of casting flash or bit of thrust bearing and you have more than 3k rpm on board. Then that bit of crap will end up straight in your mains bearing instead of in the filter where it is meant to go
The filters are too small and they are in a crap location. In saying that, i bet not many engines will run to redline and not bypass the oil filter
khubner1
Moderator
Good investment
Yea no worries pm me and well sort somthing.
Good picks. Really shows the difference in diameter.
A couple of years ago i bought a cc gsr with a 4g93 which had some mods including a td-05-16g. The car was tuned in adelaide and the previous owner wanted to achieve 200kwatw using 98. Well the previous owner got the 200kw on 20psi, took it for a" drive" around the block, then wondered what the knocking noise was. He couldnt find the noise and the car was garaged (short story version).
Shortly after I purchased the car i identified one of the forged pistons kissing the crank. Stock rods!!!!!
When I removed the exhaust manifold, i noted it was the same as the one on the left in your picture. eg bigger hole. However there was no metal ring seal (what ever you call that part), but the diameter of the hole in the metal gasket (which there was two packed together) was the smaller diameter like on the right hand side of your photo. The gasket had numerous hair line cracks leading away from the middle of the gasket.
I have since purchased the correct gasket with a larger i.d.
the engine is still in pieces awaiting assembly with forged rods, bolts etc.
I assume the old gasket would have been acting like a restrictor by slowing flow. Can anyone confirm this, and also would there be immediate gains by removing this "restriction" and installing the correct sized gasket??
A couple of years ago i bought a cc gsr with a 4g93 which had some mods including a td-05-16g. The car was tuned in adelaide and the previous owner wanted to achieve 200kwatw using 98. Well the previous owner got the 200kw on 20psi, took it for a" drive" around the block, then wondered what the knocking noise was. He couldnt find the noise and the car was garaged (short story version).
Shortly after I purchased the car i identified one of the forged pistons kissing the crank. Stock rods!!!!!
When I removed the exhaust manifold, i noted it was the same as the one on the left in your picture. eg bigger hole. However there was no metal ring seal (what ever you call that part), but the diameter of the hole in the metal gasket (which there was two packed together) was the smaller diameter like on the right hand side of your photo. The gasket had numerous hair line cracks leading away from the middle of the gasket.
I have since purchased the correct gasket with a larger i.d.
the engine is still in pieces awaiting assembly with forged rods, bolts etc.
I assume the old gasket would have been acting like a restrictor by slowing flow. Can anyone confirm this, and also would there be immediate gains by removing this "restriction" and installing the correct sized gasket??
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
It would definitely help to have the correct size gasket. Whether it would be a noticable difference while driving it is debatable.
But it would definitely flow better with the correct one.
But it would definitely flow better with the correct one.
khubner1
Moderator
will do will have to source another manifold first as i couldn't bring myself to garage the car again for a few weeks to send my current one down
How critical is it to leave the step in the ported hole? Also, is there any benefit or disadvantage of removing the flat metal divider on the inside of the manifold? I'm assuming this helps direct exhaust downward into the turbo?
ted
Well-Known Member
Haha im not sure but i machined out the flame ring in the turbo and manifold :S
khubner1
Moderator
that bit of metal is there for a reason it's to separate the opposing exhaust gas pulses so they exit cylinder beter
I don't think it's needed but if u make the flame ring a slight crush fit it shouldn't vibrate around and full apart.
CYBORG-X
Well-Known Member
the flame ring is always required to stop the blow out of the gaskets. on all my 4g93 manifolds i have had a new flame ring machined up to suit the td0516g7 flange gasket in both turbo housing and manifold also a new flame ring machined up to suit. then i port the turbo and manifold to suit the new hole..
especially since it only costs $80...
as for the 16g with e3 dump, i used a smaller oil filter, then ground the top hole off the dump, then using a little bit of that heat shield material i made a rectangle and used the lower bolt to hold it.. not ideal, but atleast is has a barrier from the heat sources..
especially since it only costs $80...
as for the 16g with e3 dump, i used a smaller oil filter, then ground the top hole off the dump, then using a little bit of that heat shield material i made a rectangle and used the lower bolt to hold it.. not ideal, but atleast is has a barrier from the heat sources..
I thought it was for this but i know people that don't use them and have no problems. Im using 1 as I went 2 the effort to machine the spigit for it. What did they make it out of, just mild steel?
