Got back from a trying track day yesterday. Moving the car today I hear a familiar noise of a exhaust leak. Thinking no big deal, I'll remove the turbo bolts and replace the gasket. Been there done that before. However what greeted me was an epic disappointment. God damn mother fucking ARP Chrome Moly turbo bolt comes out in my hand sheared off in the fucking exhaust housing. So good fellows tell me of how to remove said shit cunt bolts from the exhaust housing, and a far more suitable replacement. Product in question: ARP 8740 Chrome Moly Turbo to Manifold Bolt Set I have also previously destroyed stock ones too.
Tell me about turbo bolts...
- Thread starter Lister
- Start date
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mymidlifecrisis
Dean
Can help you with the first bit. I've done a fair bit of stud extraction and have found the only way of getting them is to drill em out using an 'air drill' (nice and light with built in brake) - that's if it doesn't come out with a bit of budging from a hammer and centre punch. Sharp drill bits - starting small (pilot hole )and increase to required diameter of bolt, less pitch. Like 10mm, by 1.25 bolt - use a 8.75 or 9mm drill. Re - tap it, if that doesn't work, obtain a helicoil kit (follow the instructions). Put the new stud in with anti-seize.
Sweet
Sweet
GSRWRC
I am The Stigs fat cousin
I use stock bolts with nickle antiseize and haven't had a problem yet. Same antiseize on the capscrews bolting the exhaust on along with the wastegate. Had a problem with one of them, but sometimes their just cunts no matter what you do. Torquing them up correctly?
I believe this is the case, other cars I've had no issues, think its just because this sees the highest manifold temps.
mymidlifecrisis
Dean
So just back tracking a bit. Did you snap the bolt undoing it or was it snapped already? If it's how you found it, then expansion would be the cause. Perhaps a different type of gasket might be the cure. If it's the former, then perhaps try undoing the bolts when the engines at operating temp. A bit difficult I know given the obvious, but heat is a sure way of removing anything that is seized.
khubner1
Moderator
while we are on this subject of bolts i need all bolts associated with mounting the turbo what sizes do i need? (std gsr turbo and manifold aftermarket exhuast unchoosen)
youda
Well-Known Member
those bolts are designed to shear instead of bend when under too much sideways force, maybe check how secure exhaust is maybe even front rear roll stoppers? i have never had them shear on me before unless old and seized. thing is find out the cause before wasting money on more bolts, the stock ones should have been fine.
Snapped undoing it, while hot. Used a 3/8th inch socket wrench, and there was a slight resistance then loose and it lifted out.
I'm also using a std evoIII pressed gasket. Youda I sheared off one of the originals when upgrading to this turbo, so I put in a set I was supplied, these constantly backed out whether fitted hot, or cold, and re-torqued regularly. So I then upgraded to the ARP bolts. The front and rear roll stoppers are ralliart items. Looking into Titanium options or a set of std ones.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Do you have a brace on the exhaust to support the weight of the turbo?
I've seen these bolts lock-wired on rally cars to stop them coming loose.
I've seen these bolts lock-wired on rally cars to stop them coming loose.
Lister I had same issue after first track day with the 4g63 noticed on way home but worked out a week latr when I had time to do a bolt (torque) check.
Should of tried removing the bolt when cold not hot though
GL with it
Should of tried removing the bolt when cold not hot though
GL with it
I have to agree about the exhaust dump being SECURELY braced to the block ( as per original exhaust brace). It can take a bit of creativity to fabricate
essentially a cup style brace with a stainless Tbar clamp to hold onto the exhaust. I have been racing/rallying for YEARS... and EVERY time there is a loosening
off of bolts/breakages etc... it can be traced directly to a lack of exhaust/block brace. I run dynos, and even under a short period of load, the turbo/manifold/exhaust
glow yellow/orange and the metal becomes "plastic" like. Think about what is hanging off the turbo- a rather heavy long bit of exhaust!! Swinging away and stretching
"plastic" like turbo retaining bolts. When it all cools down, no tension exists and gaskets blow out. Think about the additional loads then placed on that fastener doing
work it wasnt designed for. This also applies for every other type of car, be it a Holden,Ford, turbo or N/A . I have had a running battle with "guru" exhaust shops over this
problem for bloody years. And when they do eventually put a brace on, they weld it on !! DONT !!The weld will crack out.
For the record, I only use genuine Mitsubishi turbo bolts. Expensive, but I never seem to have issues with them in our competition car. The main reason why the broken bolt
is stuck and hard to remove is the threads have stretched and deformed... and lock in. Good luck, and after the thread repairs, use genuine bolts and make an exhaust brace.
Mike
