Time Attack @QR 12/2/15

[4piknup]

Aw, what a guy.
How did you go oldie?

 

[OLDIE]

Ran out of talent twice pushing tne car to find out the limit of grip with the revised suspension.

Think it has less push out of corners and a tiny bit less sudden looseness in the rear.
Looking forward to the next event where I intend to concentrate on the lines and hopefully lowering my times.

 

[OLDIE]

Pics http://www.trackphotos.com.au/p880860522

My car appears in line 1,6 &7 when you click on "show all"

 

[DOUGMO]

looks good on track oldie

 

[ENGINR]

Nice work.

 

[OLDIE]

Thanks guys :thumbsup:

 

[OLDIE]

Having trouble with overheating only at the track .Can drive in traffic or on the highway no probs & no fluid loss .Have the spolier boxed in to help get most of the incoming air to the cooler and radiator but it pushes the fluid out.
Have been researching waterless coolants and have had a long discussion with Peter from Liquid Intellegence and he has recomended I use LI 500 premix as it will increase the boil point app 40% higher so will see at the next TA @ QR in March and report findings.
My 600 x 300 T&F IC is mounted close to the Holden 3 core radiator where the AC cooler was located.

Note 1 the radiator is new and less than 6k old and only filled with distilled water and glycol and has been flushed with cleaner as well.
Note 2 there are no bubbles in the radiator to indicate a HG leak
Note 3 the MLS HG is held down with ARP studs.
Note 4 the water pump was new when the motor was built app 10000 k ago and the belt is tight.
Note 5 have removed and tested the 82 deg thermostat and it is working fine. I always test them before installation to be safe.
Note 6 Have bought a new temp gauge to monitor temps as the factory gauge has no numbers.
Note 7 have new radiator cap
Note 8 have opened up the hole in the spoiler for more air to get in as well

 

[evo-gsr]

Interested to see what the cause of this is.

 

[4piknup]

I used to read mopar action. The guys competed in one lap of america in a 360 dart (similar to our vf/vg). They had sililar issues and used a product called water wetter. I have seen a similar product here made by redline called water wetter. I think its the same stuff, but it fixed the mopar action guys car. I think you might be on the right track...

but, geo&kez had a problem with track temps also. His was fixed with a bigger radiator. Its in the wa topic by him.

 

[evo-gsr]

I have also tried that water wetter stuff but it did nothing for me....

 

[GeoKez]

Sounds identical to my issues Oldie. I never got my temps completely under control but could sustain mid 90's at race speed, then spiking to just over 100 on long sustained full boost runs on the straights. You have covered all my trials and tribulations in your noted points, Jack mentioned the bigger rad I used (3 core, stock dimensioned, ally) but still had issues.

The best results came for me by using 100% distilled water and Redline water wetter. Glycol can reduce the ability of the water to transfer heat (from a medium ie. your iron block), water wetter is supposed to increase it, so I got rid of all the glycol in the system. There are anti corrosion compounds in the Redline water wetter but regular inspection would be highly recommended. This is off Wiki regarding glycol:

Pure ethylene glycol has a specific heat capacity about one half that of water. So, while providing freeze protection and an increased boiling point, ethylene glycol lowers the specific heat capacity of water mixtures relative to pure water. A 50/50 mix by mass has a specific heat capacity of about 3140 J/kg C (0.75 BTU/lb F) three quarters that of pure water, thus requiring increased flow rates in same system comparisons with water. Additionally, the increase in boiling point over pure water inhibits nucleate boiling on heat transfer surfaces thus reducing heat transfer efficiency in some cases, such as gasoline engine cylinder walls. Therefore, pure ethylene glycol should not be used as an engine coolant in most cases

I had heard mixed results on using water wetter, but for me it produced good results of around 8-9 degrees sustained drop in engine operating temps when used without gylcol. One other thing I never got to try was suggested by Dougmo, and that was to get a proper undertray installed to get the 'venturi suck' happening through the engine bay. A good solid laminar flow of air, into and out of the engine bay is really important. Hard to do, but really important.

 

[OLDIE]

Peter from LIQUID INTELLEGENCE seems very knowledgeable and guarantee their product so am really looking forward to a good result with the product that is on the way to me as have run a cleaner thru the system and drained if out and removed the Thermostat so that I could remove all of the water by using my leaf blower over the t/stat housing with the heater open and the top of the radiator to remove any remaining fluid after dropping the bottom radiator hose.

Interesting demo http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/products/long-life-ready-to-use-universal-antfreeze-antiboil-green-coolant

 

[OLDIE]

Well the LI 500 is now in the motor and have just finished running it up to temps and burping the system to remove any trapped air.

For those who don't know how to burp the cooling system I simply cut the botton off a plastic drink bottle and seal the cap end to the radiator with silicone and clamp off the hose to the overflow bottle then run the motor up so the thermostat is open with the fluid level in the bottle higher than the radiator and squeze the radiator hose many times to remove trapped air over a period of say 10 minutes while the motor is running then when you feel that all the air is removed and the fluid level is still above the header tank turn motor off and let it cool down and top off the radiaror if needed.

WARNING KEEP HANDS WELL CLEAR OF ANY DRIVE BELTS

 

[OLDIE]

Have fitted a much higher flo Spal fan in place of one of the CD thermo fans and sealed it to the shroud due to Richards from ARE the recommendations and have a Racetec water temp and boost gauges hooked up and the temps have ranged between 82 -88 degrees on a 35 deg day which included varioos speeds between 40 -70 k's in the suburbs.
The great thing with this gauge is that there ie a recall button that will show the highest reading which will be helpful on track days.

Hopefully there will be no overheating on the 26 th Time Attack day.

 

[4piknup]

Go gettem oldie.

 

[OLDIE]

Well I have some good and some bad to report
The good no overheating gauge showed app 85 deg on track and up to 98 when in the pit after shutting off after 2 minute cool down idle.
The bad midway thru the session overboosting and saved by the overboost Haltec setting and turned out to be a ext gate diafram so took the opportunity to have my new Turbosmart 40mm gate fitted.
After 2 rounds am equal 1st in class.

 

[evo-gsr]

Could of been worse without the over boost feature.......

 

[4piknup]

Great effort oldie

 

[OLDIE]

Thanks Jack :thumbsup:

Funny how the years fall away when one is in the zone and concentrating on the track and all the stiff joints and pains return when loading car on the trailer