To shim or not to shim?

[Benzo4gT]

Hi all, I have issues with my clutch. Every single thing on this car is either custom fabricated or totally shit, sometimes both depending on the hangover, it's starting to get my wild up.

So after putting in a new clutch master, I've got next to no movement on the pedal, about an inch and a half off the floor. I've extended the slave rod, which is a bad idea generally, but thought it

might solve the problem till I get the HKS in, but it is still crap. I've adjusted the master properly and nothing is out of spec with the pedal. The clutch fork sits 10mm from the bell housing, so it's either

the ball or the fork, maybe both. I didn't notice and bend in the fork when I put it in, but it might be really worn. I just want to get this thing on the road asap!

The whole thing is starting to do my head in, and I didn't have a good head to start with :wacko:

Should I shim the pivot ball or just go for a new fork and ball? Anyone else had this issue on an RVR?

 

[MDK87]

I'd more so be looking into why you've only got 1.5" of pedal travel? :wacko:

Does your slave move it's full throw?

 

[Benzo4gT]

I'm fairly certain it's to do with the pivot ball, it doesn't take much of a shim to push it out to the centre of the fork hole <------- LOL, fork hole.

The flywheel face and step have been machined at least twice.

I'm getting anxious about the mid year meet! Will they let people go down the 1/4 on foot?

 

[Benzo4gT]

I'd more so be looking into why you've only got 1.5" of pedal travel? :wacko:

Does your slave move it's full throw?

No, it's almost fully out, the fork is about 10mm away from the bell housing. it's definitely a ball shim job, but as to new fork and ball or just some cheap washers is my dilemma.

 

[MDK87]

I used a 4G63 cylinder head bolt washer to step up the pivot ball.
Some people say it's bad practice. I guess there's possibility of pushing the pressure plate springs too far, I'm not sure if that's the reason though.
Having said that, my exedy HD puck clutch dropped a spring after a few months. Idk if it was related.
Also, I've heard that some people have slightly bent their forks. IIRC there was two types and one was beefier than the other but I can't remember now.

So all in all, I'm not much help to you. As you were. Haha

 

[EVO-00X]

Definitely use a 3mm shim if using anything other than a non oem clutch kit and flywheel.
Read my post here: http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/10127-evo00x-evolved-awd-coupe/?p=274266
Check the location of the fork in the middle of the inspection hole when you sit the gearbox back onto the block. Make sure its in the middle of the window or slightly to the right before you tighten everything back up.
If the clutch fork is too far to the left, the fork will foul inside the bellhousing and you wont get full movement. You don't want to find this out after you've bolted everything back together!!

Here's a pic to show you when I shimmed mine 3mm. The extra 3mm positioned the clutch fork here it is supposed to be.

 

[EVO-00X]

TMZ Performance sell the forged competition clutch fork and pivot ball set. You wont bend or break that fork.
Here's the link http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi%20Competition%20Clutch%20Parts.html
If you do buy this, NEVER overtighten the pivot ball as it will snap. Place a 3mm shim on, then hand tighten the pivot ball in. Then give it a little nick tighter with a spanner. That's all it needs.

 

[Benzo4gT]

Thanks for the link I think I'll grab a new one from TMZ for that price. Good to know I'll need to shim the new one too, saves a lot of tears.