Transfercase help!!!

4GTuner

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And now that we have been stalled for a price for so long, it was apparently a limited introductory offer and the price has gone up...

Please keep in mind that we offered a special discounted price for our T-case upgrade service that was offered for a limited time.
That special pricing was noted throughout our posts online, and since then, our prices have changed to reflect the normal rate, which is more then what we quoted you for those parts.
 
KNGGSR - which part exactly were you breaking?
Can someone please explain why all of these mods are performed to the transfer case when the stock gearbox output shaft is still being used? Isn't it a limitation just as much as the transfer output shaft? I can't remember now but I think they're comparable in size (diameter) so I'd assume, if you're breaking transfer cases and then you beef it up, the next thing you will break is the gearbox output shaft right? I'm sure I'm missing something here but I'm not sure what.
 
There is no twisting on the housing on the output shaft. I thing they reckon thats where the issue is. The housing deforms, the shaft then buckles sideways and breaks.

You fix whatever breaks, center diff, 4th gear, then transfer, then axles...about in that order too I think
 
i know the proper awd drag cars like the either current or previous world record evo changes output shafts after each run so there is a stress/failure point at that output shaft. but upgradeing/fixing this issue is probably im practical due to the other gearbox internal that would need to be changed to accomodate
 
Rob, contact Liberty Faceplating direct. They manufacture the 300m output shaft upgrade for several shops in the USA. Sheep is about the only one that doesn't use them.
 
Thanks Tim, I ended up buying Rob Barac's Shep racing transfer case and driveshaft with bigger yoke from his yellow EVO 2 when he converted to auto :thumbsup:
But the output shaft I've got is still OEM. I'll see what they have and cost.
Kyle, you need only take off the end cover off the gearbox, undo a circlip, pull the VCU off if you're running one and pull the shaft out. It'll be a 10-15 minute job all up replacing one.
 
never said it would be time consuming just that they do change them regularly due to them becoming stress and prone to failure after each run
 

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