Upgraded EVO2 gearbox

4GTuner

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"Do you send a manual with the gearset? does the manual state the break in period? does the manual sate the correct change period for oil changes and grade to be uses. was there a warranty statement issued. Australian consumer law provides consumer rights that may have been infringed in this case champ. "
 
But they were not the only comments were they?
The comments I refer to state facts and truth...
Can Matthias not handle the truth and respond?
Dunno why you are being soft on this...what do you actually have to lose?
 
Its obvious that being nice or "diplomatic" has achieved fuck all by this response.....

Matthias said:
Hey.
You do not have followed the break-in time and did not use the correct oil .
I gave you a good price for a new gearset .
I have explained to you how this damage happened.
More I have not to say
 
blackvr said:
Mmmm... now I'm at a cross roads ! I was about to contact Matthias to have 2 x conversions for mine a and a friends gearbox. I've had a lot to do with straight cut and performance gearboxes. If you hadn't told me anything about the background with ENGINRs failure, I would have said the incorrect oil has been used. I had a similar failure, albeit not a Mitsubishi box, using (manufacturer recommended) a high end full synthetic gear oil. We were given a replacement gear set and I took the advice of a top level, old school open wheeler Race engineer. We had no consequent failures. He had similar experiences with the Formula Holden Hewland gearboxes.... in the end , he used el cheapo "Trac Trans " oil. Put simply, Tractor auto trans oil. Castrol do it as " AgriPlus" now. It has a high level of friction modifiers in it. For the last 20 years, I just haven't had any gear failures , or any marking or pitting.

Straight cut gears do have a high shear load on oil, unlike helically cut gears.

Have the affected gears of ENGINR been hardness tested ? I would be super interested ! The stock gears look great though !!
I have a bit to do with PPG, and luckily they are only 10kms from my shop ! It is very interesting they stopped recommending Redline gear oil and wouldn't honour warranty if it is now used. They recommend the Motul full synthetic Technosynthese. I have to admit, of all the dog boxes I have serviced in the last 3 years, and all using Motul, the gear condition has been faultless....

Wow, I'm not sure what to do now. The PAR gearsets are cheapish compared to PPG, and I am assured by a 3rd party that the quality of these gearsets has improved immensely since production has recommenced in locally, rather than overseas ... Any one with any specific experience ??
Matthias' transmissons are built with a mix of oem syncromesh gears and dog gears so we need to choose something that will suit both.

PAR still have a bad rep with the EVO I-III transmissions though. I guess people are not willing to gamble thousands of dollars on a gearset from a company where they have notoriously been known to break with as low as only 250kw atw and be weaker than oem gears. If PAR were to offer their gearsets at a reduced priced for a limited period of time or supply them to a trustworthy drag or competition car we are familiar with to prove that they are now manufactured better than before, that will go a long way toward rebuilding their reputation and selling their EVO I-III gearsets once word gets around. However as it stands, nobody trusts them as plenty of people have been burnt, so they go straight to PPG gearsets and pay the premium for doing so.

I remember Matthias saying exactly what ENGINR has claimed about the oil. There was a run-in period with 75w90 and then change over to 75w140.
I also read back in past Messenger conversations between the both of us and he said his best experience to date (back in 2014) was with 50% shockproof + 50% Castrol 75w140 [see attached pic I kept for reference]. I was more worried about the 2 oils not mixing together so I'm not sure exactly if he still uses that combo or has changed to something different now.

I'm all for promoting alternative and affordable solutions to our transmission woes, and the Matthias' gearsets looked like they were the cost effective answer. I purchased mine the same time that Shayne did but haven't fitted them in a gearbox yet. I just want to make sure that when I do, I don't end up with similar results to Shayne. If I'm told to put 75w140 in I'll do it straight away I will. If I'm told to put horse piss or KY jelly in it, I'll do that too. The manufacturer is presumed to know best. Except in Shayne's instance where the 75w90 was recommended and used for less than half of the recommended run-in period before what we now see from the photographs are some pretty worrying results.

I have another friend who I organised and bought a complete Matthias gearset for (like Shayne's) last year too. I would want to make sure that when I build his gearbox that I use the correct oil and run-in procedure. Confirming what the manufacturer recommends is high on my priority list. But if it fails the same way according to the oil and run in process that the manufacturer recommended, by rights, the manufacturer should replace them and revisit their recommendations before others start to experience the exact same issues.

According to TEAMPRIP: REDLINE 75W140 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. If your application requires a very slippery gear oil that will keep the gears and bearings from scuffing & spalling in a high torque application you may want to try REDLINE 75W140 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. It's one of the best that we know of but keep in mind that it may be too slippery for the synchros to work effectively at high rpm shifting.
 

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I'm not being soft - I just want the thread to stay on topic - referring to somebody's lack of credible English when it's their second language or mentioning things that have absolutely nothing to do with the current time/situation (or anybody born in at least the last two generations) doesn't do anything to help resolve the situation.

I am very frustrated at the situation I am in - I have a gearbox that owes me alot of money and is useless to me and at this moment I have no way of resolving that situation without spending more time and money, which I am unprepared (and unable!) to do.

The whole purpose of posting my update was to 1) make people aware of the situation I am in so that they do not "suffer the same fate" and 2) hope to get some feedback on how I could salvage the parts I have.

It was never intended to be a "shit-canning" exercise and/or personal attack on anybody.

  • Would I love for Matthias to replace the gears free of charge? - of course I would.
  • Should he? - I would think so.
  • Will he? - No.
  • Am I happy with this response? Of course not.
  • Do I think I was deliberately sold inferior quality parts? No - I do not. Perhaps I am naive but I do think most people out there have good intentions.
  • Have I tried to resolve this offline - of course I have, but it is still obviously unresolved and realistically what options do I have to really pursue this? Ultimately is it worth the time, heart-ache and effort? For what I will ultimately achieve out of it all - I don't think so.
  • Would I caution people about purchasing these parts when questioned about my personal experience with them? - of course I would, but ultimately people are free to make their own decisions about what they do.
 
Would of also thought a FREE exchange/ replacement set would of been on the way...
"More I have not to say" sounds like a far-q, not to you Shane but to any of us who had intentions of buying off him... thank fuck tax time hasnt been...
 
Did anything ever come of this?
I'm in Jamaica looking some gears and would like to know that at least some resolution was had
 
No such thing in this instance mate. My recommendation would be to keep power at a level that will let a stock gearbox survive or go all out with a proper dog box.
 
If anybody wants to buy my upgraded evo2 gearbox i'll certainly entertain the idea. Will need a long talk about it though because I'm not having the buyer coming back to me later saying "I know you told me the hardening wore off the straight cut teeth but I've noticed the hardening has worn off the straight cut teeth and so I want my money back" - f#$k that.
 
From experience 300kw atw will kill a stock box. I would say 220-240kw atw would be the most i'd be comfortable pushing through a stock box.
 

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