rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Did the log from the ecm link show up any knock and any timing retard?
What is the base timing set at and at what rpm was it set?
What is the base timing set at and at what rpm was it set?
VR4 16psi and 139kw@wheels??!!
- Thread starter nonickname
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nonickname
Well-Known Member
Iam not sure what rpm the base timing was set. I will ask next week. I just had a look at the log. When under full throttle from 2300 to 6300rpm you can see the timing drop from 18 degrees at the start down rapidly to 9.9 degrees around 4200rpm and then it creeps back up to 15.2 degrees by 6300rpm. The knock ret always reads 0.0deg so I assume that it has been turned off for the run? You can easily see the rpm staircasing. I think at one point around 5000rpm it drops back down to nearly 4700rpm?! The ecm log was sent to the guy who makes ecmlink and what he saw was what he thought looked like a misfire. He saw a "choppy" RPM sgnal. Which made him think its either a misfire or a noisey cam angle sensor. "The RPM is not smooth and is causing some amount of timing jitter". The cas was changed at one point and the same results were present. Plugs are new and also the leads.
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Ok I tried to post the ecm log on here but it says im not permitted to? If anyone is interested pm your email and I can send it to you that way. Otherwise are there any tips on how to get it onto 4gtuner? Thanks!
iluszn
Well-Known Member
ok, question. (May have already been answered)
Did you at any stage, put the car back to how it was before ie remove ecmlink and boost controller and put the meek chip back in?
I would do this to test, then just put the ecm link in and test, What is to say that there is a glitch with the ecmlink chip that it may have a fault?
Did you at any stage, put the car back to how it was before ie remove ecmlink and boost controller and put the meek chip back in?
I would do this to test, then just put the ecm link in and test, What is to say that there is a glitch with the ecmlink chip that it may have a fault?
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Yeah i disconnected the boost controller. It ran lower boost as suspected but stil was way down on power for 14psi. We did remove the ecm and put th meek back in. It does make more power than the safe setting we have the ecm set on but it seems to be geting knock still. so maybe im actually lucky in a way that i got the ecm and didnt just keep driving it until it blew a hole in piston etc
brisvr4
Member
See my reply on the link forum.
The timing movement is normal, according to the timing map it is what your tuner has set it up to do.
The timing movement is normal, according to the timing map it is what your tuner has set it up to do.
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Cheers for that!
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Sorry guys getting the net back on tues, not had it for a while now. The car is stil not running how it should. It has about 150kw@wheels now so is a bit faster but stil unable to have more than 16psi or it starts to knock severly. We may have made an interesting discovery though. This car could quite possibly has a Hyundai head on it?! The reason we think this is that the casting marks on the rear have been ground off. Now why would anybody do that? I have been to the wreckers and seen the marks on the hyundai 4g63 heads. They are small and sit lower than the mitsi 2.0 markings. My head has a very small grind mark that is lower and not as wide as what you would need to get rid of the the big 2.0 of the vr4 head. Also has a D marking by the cas not an M. Has anyone ever experienced a vr4 block/hyundai head combo? Is it known to be restrictive? The only thing that is consistantly off on my ecm log is the choppy fuel signal. Could this be due to inlet manfold and head not lining up creating bad airflow? Also for a strange coincidence when i google "hyundai head on vr4" The first thing that pops up is one for sale on the galant vr4 forum.........from the guy who owned my car two people before me! lol
brisvr4
Member
Does it still have the VR4 inlet manifold on it?
The hyundai heads have a 4cc smaller chamber volume and smaller intake runners.
The hyundai heads have a 4cc smaller chamber volume and smaller intake runners.
JayRome
Blurring the line between 1st to 3rd Gen engines..
higher compression yes, but should not be knocking badly if tuned correctly......
have you guys tried hard wiring the fuel pump, so the ECU doesn't control when it turns on and off?
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Yeah it does look to have the aus spec vr4 intake on it, but saying that. When I was looking at the hyundai inlet manifold at the wreckers it does look the same so cant be 100%. I think next step is taking the inlet of and measuring things up.
nonickname
Well-Known Member
I dont think that has been done. It has the adjustable fuel pressure reg and walbro pump but not sure about hard wired. When I get the net back on this week i will post up another log on ecmlink with knock turned on and see what people think. To be honest I think this car is tuned as good as its gonna get in this state. Something is not right physically. Something is restrictive. The car does now go pretty much the same as when i bought it and is dead smooth and economical to drive. Makes me wonder if the last owner had the same problem and passed it on to someone as is.
nonickname
Well-Known Member
Took inlet manifold off today. These are the measurements i got for the inlet side of things
Cylinder head- 37.5mm x 61.0mm taken at the face. ie not entering the port at all.
34.2mm x 60.2mm taken with the calipers hard up against the face of the head. ie inside the port.
Inlet Manifold- 37.2mm x 60.00mm
Now are these what you would expect to see on a vr4 head? Also there is alot of sludge in these ports. Grease like stuff. gets worse from 1 to 4 with cylinder 4 being the worst......This motor is a fresh rebuild??? I will be taking the intercooler out tomorrow and having a look. Then the turbo will be coming off. Been told possibly the wrong gasket could have been used causing a restriction.
Cylinder head- 37.5mm x 61.0mm taken at the face. ie not entering the port at all.
34.2mm x 60.2mm taken with the calipers hard up against the face of the head. ie inside the port.
Inlet Manifold- 37.2mm x 60.00mm
Now are these what you would expect to see on a vr4 head? Also there is alot of sludge in these ports. Grease like stuff. gets worse from 1 to 4 with cylinder 4 being the worst......This motor is a fresh rebuild??? I will be taking the intercooler out tomorrow and having a look. Then the turbo will be coming off. Been told possibly the wrong gasket could have been used causing a restriction.
nonickname
Well-Known Member
I changed the timing map and a whole lot of other settings were tweaked a bit. I started to make alot more power up top but anything over 16psi and the knock light would still come on. Was told the injectors appeared to be at their limit. (Thanks for all your help Tim!) I then did a bit of reading round on the net and found I need to run around 42 psi fuel pressure as Iam using evo 8 injectors and that is what they run from factory. I changed the fuel pressure from 37 to 43 on the adjustable reg and the ecmlink. I also bumped up the fuel in the top end on the map. I can now boost 20psi no worries and have a big jump in performance. I then purchased an LC-1. I was going to install it this week and go from there........But unfortunately I thought since the car is finally making a bit of power ( i bought it last august and have hardly driven it!) I would see how it would go with a launch. It appears not very well. I reved it to the 4800rpm launch limit, drop the clutch and.....nothing. Stuck in first gear going nowhere. Great. So at the moment Iam in the process of getting the gearbox sorted and then will proceed with the tune. All bullshit aside. I think Iam on the home striait as far as the tuning side of things go.
