VR4 abs

[doommachine]

My ABS is broken - it is almost 100 percent guaranteed to be a sensor, as it stopped working right after I got the wheel studs/bearings replaced. The ABS light doesnt light up, but at low speeds the brakes do not work properly, the ABS just continually fires. (of course I have removed the fuse so as to avoid death)

I have the GSR - and I am tossing up removing the non-abs prop valve/lines and just removing the ABS from the VR4 entirely. I was going to start doing it today but you know. It's a big pain in the arse and I'm trying to find a good excuse to not do it

Couple of questions -

Is it worth removing it? I really dislike the brake feel on the car. 265T reckons the brake feel is a lot better on the RS, and the brakes feel a lot better on the galant GSR too, but is that likely to be due to the ABS unit not being bled properly, or something like that?

Maybe my master cylinder is screwed? I don't know, has anyone got a GSR and a VR4, (or has driven both), and can you comment on the feel of the brakes?

How can I check which wheel sensor is screwed without paying mitusbishi to do it for me? Removing and checking them seems to involve, in most cases, completely destroying the sensor. I have already attempted to pull them out and I can see that they are not going to come out in such a way that will allow them to be re-used.

 

[turbovr4]

My ABS is broken - it is almost 100 percent guaranteed to be a sensor, as it stopped working right after I got the wheel studs/bearings replaced. The ABS light doesnt light up, but at low speeds the brakes do not work properly, the ABS just continually fires. (of course I have removed the fuse so as to avoid death)

I have the GSR - and I am tossing up removing the non-abs prop valve/lines and just removing the ABS from the VR4 entirely. I was going to start doing it today but you know. It's a big pain in the arse and I'm trying to find a good excuse to not do it

Couple of questions -

Is it worth removing it? I really dislike the brake feel on the car. 265T reckons the brake feel is a lot better on the RS, and the brakes feel a lot better on the galant GSR too, but is that likely to be due to the ABS unit not being bled properly, or something like that?

Maybe my master cylinder is screwed? I don't know, has anyone got a GSR and a VR4, (or has driven both), and can you comment on the feel of the brakes?

How can I check which wheel sensor is screwed without paying mitusbishi to do it for me? Removing and checking them seems to involve, in most cases, completely destroying the sensor. I have already attempted to pull them out and I can see that they are not going to come out in such a way that will allow them to be re-used.

I used to drive a HG gsr galant before i got the ZR4 eterna,which has abs brakes.both cars brakes felt exactly the same even pedal travel is the same.But i havent braked hard enough to test the abs on the eterna yet.
And both cars use the same 266mm front discs and normal single piston calipers

 

[provan]

hey mate yea pauls rs brakes way better than my vr4 ive been thinking about removing the abs myself

 

[JayRome]

from having drivin both.... the GSR has better brake feel then the VR4.... but remember the VR4 is much heavier.... but then simplicity at times is better, less things to go wrong.......

 

[rob323]

My ABS is broken - it is almost 100 percent guaranteed to be a sensor, as it stopped working right after I got the wheel studs/bearings replaced. The ABS light doesnt light up, but at low speeds the brakes do not work properly, the ABS just continually fires. (of course I have removed the fuse so as to avoid death)

One or more sensors will be out of adjustment, or one or more wires fromt he sensors will have broken.

Is it worth removing it? I really dislike the brake feel on the car. 265T reckons the brake feel is a lot better on the RS, and the brakes feel a lot better on the galant GSR too, but is that likely to be due to the ABS unit not being bled properly, or something like that?

What size master cylinder do you have. The 1" master made a huge difference to the feel of the brakes on my prefacelift J spec.Bye bye spongy pedal.

How can I check which wheel sensor is screwed without paying mitusbishi to do it for me? Removing and checking them seems to involve, in most cases, completely destroying the sensor. I have already attempted to pull them out and I can see that they are not going to come out in such a way that will allow them to be re-used.

No need to remove them, just clean any crap from them and adjust the gap back to factory specs. That should solve your problem. In anycase, it's only one bolt that holds them in, certainly doesn't involve destroying them to remove them.

 

[Jonson]

I have a scan tool, feel free to come by and we can give it a look.

 

[blackvr]

hey mate yea pauls rs brakes way better than my vr4 ive been thinking about removing the abs myself

Chris... you didnt drive my standard ASpec VR4 on Sunday though. My brake pedal feel about the same as Pauls.... and my brakes and ABS works great.
Paul has different pads to yours as well. I cant remember Chris, do you have the twin pot caliper/larger rotor or single pot/smaller rotor ?
That makes a fair difference.


My advice is to sort out the probable sensor issue and keep the ABS.

Cheers Mike

 

[dafurn]

Or go the same lazy way as me and just unplug the abs computer in the boot.

 

[doommachine]

Or go the same lazy way as me and just unplug the abs computer in the boot.

I've already pulled the fuse, my concern is more that the fluid has to travel through the whole system.

I have an A-spec, I assume I have a 1" master cylinder? It is the spongy pedal feel I hate, I mean when the ABS fires it does suck and feel pretty awful - its almost as bad as the ABS in an EL falcon I have twin pot fronts of course, and I'm running lucas pads. My rotors are brand new all round too. Perhaps my master cylinder is the problem, maybe it's screwed?

Also, when I last bled the brakes I just did the calipers, I didn't bleed the ABS unit.



OK, so Rob, when I tried to remove the sensor it seemed really really stuck in the bore, how can I lever it out without cracking the plastic housing? I can't really see a point I can add leverage which wont snap the edge?

Jonson, it's not rego'd yet (I'll probably wait until the front bar gets sprayed, dunno how long it will take). I guess if I want to remove the ABS I really need an AWD proportioning valve? I think I'll hold off until the car is driving around, and if it really seems to be too much hassle I'll just grab the lines/prop valve off ebay or something.

 

[rob323]

I have an A-spec, I assume I have a 1" master cylinder?

correct. A spongy pedal is then due to fluid and pad choice.

Also, when I last bled the brakes I just did the callipers, I didn't bleed the ABS unit.

I was never able to find a way to bleed the abs unit. All I ever did was bleed the brakes, then go out and get the abs unit activating several times, then bleed them again. Although I never saw any additional air come out on the second bleed though.

OK, so Rob, when I tried to remove the sensor it seemed really really stuck in the bore, how can I lever it out without cracking the plastic housing? I can't really see a point I can add leverage which wont snap the edge?

From memory, stick your head in the wheel arch and have a look on the back of the hub. There is a 10mm bolt which holds the abs sensors in place.

 

[doommachine]

OK, so perhaps I will completely flush the fluid and see how that feels. I will attempt to remove and check the sensors again, cheers for the input.

correct. A spongy pedal is then due to fluid and pad choice.


I was never able to find a way to bleed the abs unit. All I ever did was bleed the brakes, then go out and get the abs unit activating several times, then bleed them again. Although I never saw any additional air come out on the second bleed though.



From memory, stick your head in the wheel arch and have a look on the back of the hub. There is a 10mm bolt which holds the abs sensors in place.

 

[MDK87]

I have a scan tool, feel free to come by and we can give it a look.

Jonson, when you say scan tool, do you mean the MUT? Or just a Palm pilot with MMcd softwarte on it?
I tried finding what was causing my ABS light to turn on with my datalogger (Palm) but it couldn't detect ABS faults.
I think MMcd was designed to only monitor the MPI pin on the diagnostics connector.

 

[omad]

Bleeding the abs unit is detailed in the workshop manual. I've done it each time I've bled the brakes. There are two bleed nipples on the ABS unit, one is harder to see as it's sort of under the guard. From memory I just moved that little bank of relays off the guard and out of the way a little to get to it.

Just checked the manual and it's rear right, front left, abs (nipple closest to engine). Then rear left, front right, abs (nipple closest to front guard/furthest from the engine). Don't forget to bleed the master cyl if you are or have emptied it at some point.