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Its well not that sulfides in GL-5 oils can eat yellow metals (aka syncros/hubs) etc.
Only GL-4 for VR4's.
 
last week i put castrol multitrax which is an 80w90 in my box and transfer, and put castrol lsx90 in the rear diff (jspec vr4). since i have had the car the gear changes have bit a little rough. when i changed the oil it was smoother straight away but then went rough again the next day, this is the wrong oil isnt it, i just looked on the bottle and it said gl5
 
yer even in my ggsr box gl5 oils make it change really bad, very noisy..
ive used valvoline duragear which is gl4 rated ever since and on cold starts and high revs it shifts very nicely and got rid of my 7 k gear change crunches in 1st and 2nd.
 
so is the lsx 90 ok for the rear diff? do vr4's come standard with lsd front and/or rear??
i can maybe "borrow" some castrol syntrans 75w80 i think from work gl4. will this be ok for box
 
I am using the genuine Kazz LSD oil in my gearbox which costs an arm and a leg. The LSD makes a few clunks on full lock at slow speed, but has settled down a little now since it has worn in.
 
vr4goleta said:
what do i flush the box out with, i have heard atf, is this correct, if so how long do you keep it in there

Yep, workd perfect..do about 3- 4 flushes...you can drive with it in, not far though, only for about say 5 minutes, its the best way of getting all the shit out.

When my box was bad, really bad (couldnt get 1st, 2nd Or R) i flushed it 4 times with ATF..and did a change with Castol 85W GL4 ...i gave it a day and drained the oil again, Then put more new stuff back in,and some nulon shit as well. It shifted better than ever, like it was new, it worked great...when i first drained it, it looked like champagne mettalic paint and had flakes of syncros 1mm big.and im talking my box was at the point where it hought it was dead..but afterwards...all good, for ages
 
EVO85 said:
I am using the genuine Kazz LSD oil in my gearbox which costs an arm and a leg. The LSD makes a few clunks on full lock at slow speed, but has settled down a little now since it has worn in.

where do you get this oil from?? im using a cusco lsd in my box and im just trying to make it abit smoother on turns. can you pm it to me please evo85 as i wont b on here much for the next few weeks.
 
If you have a read at the back of the Castrol book where they go through all the different oils, I'm pretty sure they say that the VMX80 was made to suit Mitsubishi's and has extra friction modifier added. Have a read of the catalogue next time you get a chance anyway.
 
well i just filled the box and transfer up with it today, so hopefully if my car starts on the weekend i could possibly give some feed back :)
 
DIESTI said:
EVO85 said:
I am using the genuine Kaaz LSD oil in my gearbox which costs an arm and a leg. The LSD makes a few clunks on full lock at slow speed, but has settled down a little now since it has worn in.

where do you get this oil from?? im using a cusco lsd in my box and im just trying to make it abit smoother on turns. can you pm it to me please evo85 as i wont b on here much for the next few weeks.

PM'ed... :)

http://www.rmsmotorparts.com.au/cgi-bin/HomeFrameset.cgi?Brands/kaaz2/kaaz_lsd.htm

What type of gear oil should I use?
A special blend oil made by KAAZ named "PowerTrain Gear Oil" can be used to keep your L.S.D. running for long hours under the best condition. The oil helps the clutch plates to grip and slip when needed.

How do I fix the chattering noise?
We understand that most car owners who use the mechanical L.S.D. are very disturbed by the chattering noise. As mentioned previously, the chattering noise comes from the friction between the clutch plates. This situation is normally caused by not doing enough break in and bad angle fit between the clutch plates.

The best to break in and remove the noise is by driving in a figure 8 pattern for about 30 minutes and let the plates rub in to form a good fit. If this initial break in is not performed and too much torque is applied to the L.S.D. at once, the plates will form strange angles. Then the chattering noise will continue and may even cause damage to the L.S.D.

The oil used in the L.S.D. could also contribute to the noise problem. Poor quality oils contain large amount of tiny grains of metal which cause chattering noises. If noise still occurs after break in, try changing the L.S.D. oil. This usually eliminates or reduces the noise.

Oil which contains large amount of added chemicals will cause noise too. Users who are especially concerned about the chattering noise could think about changing to a better quality oil such as KAAZ Powertrain Gear Oil.

My gearbox and the oil that goes into it... :)

p7130271fw9.jpg
 
to4garret said:
vacuum 5th :( why didnt you go to a stronger box?

No need as of yet. Apparently it's a Jap spec AC (the strongest produced for this model). It's seen nearly 300hp at the wheels without a stress, however that may change in the coming months. Do you have another alternative without either butchering the firewall or changing to a cable arrangement?
 

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