What a recommended spark plug to be used in the rvr 4g63t
- Thread starter Koko08
- Start date
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A ruler are you serious? Buy some feeler gauges!
No wonder they are far too hot of a plug. Your ecu probably had a nice time pulling all the timing due to the knock as well.
Also you should only gap copper plugs as they have the wider tip that wont bend, not the fine tip iridium and platinum plugs, you'll bend the tip, if you really wanted to persist with it, you could try slowly gaping it down without the feller gauge in there when you hit it, then keep checking it with the gauges, if you gap it with the feeler gauge in there as you hit it your going to bend the tip.
Don't buy the -11 plugs to start with and you wont have a 1.1 gap. You shouldn't need to start gapping below a 0.8mm gap unless you getting around and over 20psi.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
A ruler??? ROFL...Jesus man...If you can gap a plug using a ruler...Good luck.
Might be easier with feeler gauge..If you don't know what that is..I suggest you get someone who knows what they are doing to help you out...
Might be easier with feeler gauge..If you don't know what that is..I suggest you get someone who knows what they are doing to help you out...
I just used the plug finder on NGK's web site. It says BP6ES
I thought we had to run the "Resistor type plug", so i always ran the BPR6ES and BPR7ES now im running so more boost.
I just checked on the ecmlink tuning forums and everyone is running the resistor plugs otherwise they had problems, so i had it right.
Basically if you running around stock boost or maybe 15psi sticking with a 6 heat range would be fine.
If you getting it tuned for 20psi, going one heat range cooler would be a good idea so a 7 heat range, so BPR7ES.
Don't got to an 8 they are too cold and the carbon wont burn off driving on the street.
If you tuner is getting missfire tell him to gap them down till the missfire goes away, i went down to 0.7 and it was fine running 22psi on my vr4, it would missfire any larger. You want the gap as big as possible so only go smaller if you have to. You shouldn't have to mess with plugs until its tuned.
So to sum up;
Buy the right plugs, BPR6ES if you not running big boost and BPR7ES if you plan to get around 20psi.
Run the low boost on the correct plugs, don't touch the gaps as you shouldn't need to, then get the tuner to only mess with the gap if it missfires as the boost is wound up.
And if someone at a car shop picked the plugs out for you, they are a tosser, they probably saw the 6 in the iridium's in the catalog, had none on the shelf and thought stuff it ill sell him 5's as its a 100 dollar sale. Id go back with the receipt and demand my money back as they are far too hot and putting the motor at risk of damage, no wonder they melted the plug.
This is only if someone picked them out for you, if you did it cop it on the chin as a learning curve lol.
I thought we had to run the "Resistor type plug", so i always ran the BPR6ES and BPR7ES now im running so more boost.
I just checked on the ecmlink tuning forums and everyone is running the resistor plugs otherwise they had problems, so i had it right.
Basically if you running around stock boost or maybe 15psi sticking with a 6 heat range would be fine.
If you getting it tuned for 20psi, going one heat range cooler would be a good idea so a 7 heat range, so BPR7ES.
Don't got to an 8 they are too cold and the carbon wont burn off driving on the street.
If you tuner is getting missfire tell him to gap them down till the missfire goes away, i went down to 0.7 and it was fine running 22psi on my vr4, it would missfire any larger. You want the gap as big as possible so only go smaller if you have to. You shouldn't have to mess with plugs until its tuned.
So to sum up;
Buy the right plugs, BPR6ES if you not running big boost and BPR7ES if you plan to get around 20psi.
Run the low boost on the correct plugs, don't touch the gaps as you shouldn't need to, then get the tuner to only mess with the gap if it missfires as the boost is wound up.
And if someone at a car shop picked the plugs out for you, they are a tosser, they probably saw the 6 in the iridium's in the catalog, had none on the shelf and thought stuff it ill sell him 5's as its a 100 dollar sale. Id go back with the receipt and demand my money back as they are far too hot and putting the motor at risk of damage, no wonder they melted the plug.
This is only if someone picked them out for you, if you did it cop it on the chin as a learning curve lol.
If you have the receipt go back and demand you money back as they are not the correctly listed iridium plugs either. They are too hot and in a turbo motor the detonation could have turned you motor into a boat anchor.
Yes. Run the copper plugs. They work well in these motors and people make big power on them. Just have to be changed more than an iridium but they are a quarter the price also.
When you bought them, did you stress to the guy that its the turbo 4g63 rvr, otherwise the plug you were given sounds like the plug for a 7/91 - 11/97 Mitsubishi RVR 1800 4G93.
If you didn't give him all the correct info to go off its not their fault, if you did say for the 2l turbo 4g63 ect, then they are the wrong plugs. If you didn't provide the right info, oh well.
umpc1611
Active Member
Reading through this thread got me pulling my plugs to check them out. I'm running Denso IW22 (iridiums, heat range equivalent to NGK BPR7EIX) in a totally unmodified RVR HSGR motor, 188,000 kms., and the plugs have 8,000 kms. of use. The motor seems to idle fine (a bit low sometimes, but I think this is due to very unstable/capricious climatic conditions here), and run fine at all speeds, with the only irregularity being a very slight "stumble" when "blipping" the throttle up to about 4 grand while parked, after the motor is warmed - it's so slight that it's hard to describe.
Anyway, what has me posting is that plugs from cylinders 1, 3, and 4 all seem to have a very light sheen of oil on the threads when I pulled them; plug 2 is bone dry. There isn't any oil apparent on any other part - electrode, ceramic base, etc. Any idea what would cause this?
Attached pix: first of all four (in 4-3-2-1 order); 2nd is plug 2 next to plug 1; last is plug 4, plug 3
Anyway, what has me posting is that plugs from cylinders 1, 3, and 4 all seem to have a very light sheen of oil on the threads when I pulled them; plug 2 is bone dry. There isn't any oil apparent on any other part - electrode, ceramic base, etc. Any idea what would cause this?
Attached pix: first of all four (in 4-3-2-1 order); 2nd is plug 2 next to plug 1; last is plug 4, plug 3
umpc1611
Active Member
Had them torqued at 25 lb-ft (upped it to 28 when I reinstalled them, thinking along those lines), so I don't think looseness was the issue.
Very slight fuel smell at the tips.
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