what do i do

[GVR40]

i have pulled the pistons out, and i am sending the block to be bored, honed and cleaned, and the crank to be linished, but when i get it back, what do i do, do i need to replace the bearings and the rear main seal, do i need to replace the caps, how do i pull the old pistons off the rods so that i can put the new ones on, any help will be appreciated and tim, u may have to come and give me a hand with it

GVR40

 

[brisvr4]

Hey Craig
What I would do personally is to get a workshop to assemble the short block, i.e fit crank, rods and pistons. This way you will know that they have gotten the clearances correct on the rod and main bearings.
If you don't have them set up right you will be pulling the motor again with a spun bearing fairly soon. ( do't ask how I know this! )
Yes I would replace ALL of the seals etc and if the budget allows it i'd fit the balance shaft removal kit and get the bottom end balanced.
Did the guy who you got the pistons from let you know what the pin diameter was?
If the diameter is different to your stock rods you will not be able to use them
I'll fill you in some more when i'm next down your way mate...
\

 

[GVR40]

i got the pistons off me and i called the supplier and to make sure i could use the standard rods, and they said i could, i believe they have a 21mm pin, they are for the 1g eclipse

 

[EVO-00X]

Make sure they give the block a good clean out because it could still be full of crap in the jackets :wink: I'd also be buying a new headgasket, timing belt kit, water pump, bearings, welsh plugs, seals and balance shaft removal kit. To finish it off get the workshop to check and then fit the bottom end components and do a bottom end balance with your flywheel on (and clutch assembly also if possible). All these parts can be purchased and work carried out for around $1200 I see no point in taking the engine down and skimping on existing parts that could be replaced at the same time to give your car that extra reliability... actually IMO its a 'I must do' rather than 'should I do' :wink: Reliability and strength is your top priority :twisted:

 

[GVR40]

Make sure they give the block a good clean out because it could still be full of crap in the jackets :wink: I'd also be buying a new headgasket, timing belt kit, water pump, bearings, welsh plugs, seals and balance shaft removal kit. To finish it off get the workshop to check and then fit the bottom end components and do a bottom end balance with your flywheel on (and clutch assembly also if possible). All these parts can be purchased and work carried out for around $1200 I see no point in taking the engine down and skimping on existing parts that could be replaced at the same time to give your car that extra reliability... actually IMO its a 'I must do' rather than 'should I do' :wink: Reliability and strength is your top priority :twisted:

the head gasket is on its way, the timing belt was done 3 months ago, and then 3 months before that, can anyone give me a reason appart from the balance shaft belt spins twice as fast as the timing belt and if it snaps then timing belt does as well.

GVR40

 

[brisvr4]

No balance shafts= less rotating mass!
And no belt to snap and get tangled in the timing belt!

 

[GVR40]

that still makes no sense to me tim, put it in words that a musician would understand

GVR40

 

[jase]

Sorry, I just can't be serious. It's a sickness.

 

[bazeng]

i see your getting there!!

personally, if u have never built a motor before, dont make your car the first!!

try a crappy **** box or something before u do yours...

i would change EVERYTHING!!!

if u want to use the stock rods, get them crack tested and add some ARP and maybe even shot peen them..

to remove the gudgion pins, you need to use a hydrolic press.. i've seen some pistons break this way though..

also as for bearings, do you have them yet?

i've got some spares (never used, but fitted) if your interested
ACL, STD Size

im no engine builder, but it doesn't look too difficult, but im not willing to risk thousands of dollars on a first build.

maybe ill try and build my n/a motor..

make sure u keep your crank caps numbered, u'd want to bolt them back to where they came from, i believe if u get it wrong, it could lock the crank up

same goes for the head and the cam caps...

as for balance shafts, get rid of them mate!!.. u wont regret it..

make sure to get your rods balanced also, and the entire rotating assembly
(crank / flywheel / clutch / harmonic balancer)

i believe the process is, balance crank / flywheel / harmonic balancer to neutral, and them bolt up the pressure plate and balance that with it.

so make sure u have a new balancer and flywheel (or good flywheel)

good luck mate

 

[GVR40]

ok then, so everything is - welch plugs, conrod bearings, main bearings, rear main oil seal, water pump, harmonic balancer, flywheel, head gasket - if i have left something off please tell me

as far as rods go i should get them crack tested and shot peened, and arp studs, would that be the main stud kit or is there a different one for the rods.

yes this is my first engine, i have done most of the work on it because i couldn't afford to pay a mechanic to do it

GVR40

 

[bazeng]

no need for main studs, just get arp head studs

purchase a complete VRS kit for the gvr4 (all the gaskets u need)
just dont use the head gasket and manifold gaskets (i would get the metal ones from mitsu)

"everything" is what you have listed, make sure to inspect the oil pump also..
also include the timing belt parts (idler pulley, tensioner pulley, tensioner, belt)

take some pics when ur doing the build mate, would be cool to have a look

 

[GVR40]

im not changing the timing belt or the tensioners, because they were only done 3 months ago, and the car has only done 5000kms since then, i have the head studs and manifold gaskets, i just need the valve cover and a couple of others, ahhh i have lost what i was thinking now, bloody women...

GVR40

~EDIT~
i remember what i was going to say
the head gasket is a cometic, and the manifold gaskets are felpro (used in nascar), probly get a fidanza flywheel, and see where i go from there

GVR40

 

[brisvr4]

that still makes no sense to me tim, put it in words that a musician would understand

GVR40

lol Craig, ok you asked for it.
When we get it all back together and running i'll get you to stick your hand into the alternator fan belt... i'll bet your hand gets all mangled and the belt comes off!
:mrgreen:

 

[GVR40]

its ok tim, i had already decided to get rid of the balance shafts, i will pull them out tomorrow, hopefully, didn't wednesday used to be your day off, if your not doing anything u should pop round.

GVR40

 

[4WDGSR]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

You probally already know of the link but always helps in anycase

 

[bazeng]

lol

should get the parts for the balance shaft removal asap,
last time i checked they were either discontinuing with the parts or no stock in AUS

u could do the non genuine stuff, but its not as good as going the real deal (you could easily crack the front cover)

 

[GVR40]

does anyone know the part number for the genuine balance shaft eliminator kit, if not i will go non genuine, doesn't bother me

GVR40

~EDIT~

the part numbers are
MD098626 - $22.00 - stubby shaft
MD092785 - $15.20 - block off plate
MD040597 - $29.00 - bearing
MD103722 - $25.00 - bearing

and thats how much they are from my local mitsu place, now i just need to get some instructions or some help putting them in, i will put this info in the parts database as well

GVR40

 

[GSRSOL]

the part numbers are
MD098626 - $22.00 - stubby shaft
MD092785 - $15.20 - block off plate
MD040597 - $29.00 - bearing
MD103722 - $25.00 - bearing


GVR40

is one of each item all you need?

 

[GVR40]

i believe so, the kit that sbr sell has only these parts in it, that kit is 42 usd and they told me shipping would be at least that again

GVR40

 

[brisvr4]

Hey Craig
I now have Mondays off. I will try and get down to your work on sunday, Take your turbo into work and i'll check it out for you.