Wheel alignment specs

[kaotik]

Hey guys, did a bit of searching and came up with the factory wheel alignment specs but is there a more performance
minded set of specs i should aim for in terms of tarmac grip on heavy cornering?
or is it best to just get it done to oem spec?

 

[bazeng]

There is a really informative thread on gvr4.org.au

specs are listed man. Who you getting to do it? Tech sport are good with this stuff.

 

[milkandoj]

Whiteline's web site has good suggested specs when you search for the upgrade kits for your car, as it has suggested specs for each level of their kits. gives a good idea.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/search.php
Search for you car up the top then look at the suggested setting for each level at the bottom o the products listed.


heres a great article that helped me decide what i wanted. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

From my understanding, toe in, on the rear aids stability, but can make turn in slower. toe out makes it turn in sharper by making it more unstable and want to over steer more, you can feel this at high speeds. Anything more than 1mm or toe either way wears tires out. I had 2mm of toe in for a bit and it hammered the tires.

And negative camber, you want enough so you outside tire wear is the same as inside. Ive run -1.25* camber on front and -1* on the rear and tire wear was quite even.
Atm the pricks stuffed it up and didn't do what i asked, but im getting new suspension soon anyway. Oh and they left the grease they use to slip the tires on the wheel and it flicked all down my car. Grrrrrr

 

[JAP63]

From my understanding, toe in, on the rear aids stability, but can make turn in slower. toe out makes it turn in sharper by making it more unstable and want to over steer more, you can feel this at high speeds. Anything more than 1mm or toe either way wears tires out. I had 2mm of toe in for a bit and it hammered the tires.

Above is good advice...toe in wears the outside edge of the tyre, toe out tends to wear the iner edge, a visual inspection on your tyres can tell you alot as to whats going on.
If you run a mm or so of toe out on the rear I'd reckon it should feel pretty good, this is what i was running on my VR4, it helps the ass come around (picture how a forklift steers from the rear end).One prob with the VR4 is that it is so heavy and just wants to plow the nose through corners... once your understeering and push them through a corner, it just gets worse.

Toe out in the rear to unsettle the attitude a little and the nose should point in the direction a little bit sharper, bear in mind this will take a bit of getting used to...and if you back off, expect a different response to usual, the tail may want to come around, which in a heavy car like these can be nervy.

Unfortunately the Rear end of the VR4 just isnt that good of a thing. Im not saying they cant be made to handle well, but when i went to my E3 it was absolute chalk and cheese.Mitsubishi really did evolve things through the series, the deactivation of the 4WS in my opinion is one of the best things you can do. There was a HUGE rant on here a while ago in a thread I started about 4WS removal which was locked. All i can say is that with the removal of it, you have complete control over the vehicle without interference, especially if the car is lowered and the original geometry is changed. This to me meant alot.

All the best with it.