Which stroker

4GTuner

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What do you mean by "butcher" the crank? You shouldn't have to touch it other than to clean it up and balance it.
 
Here's the 2.4 cranks we can easily find locally in Australia :)

I've attached pics of the 6-bolt 4G64 8-valve engine found in the early 91-92 UF Nimbus'. I have personally owned 2 x UF Nimbus' and one of them had the 6-bolt engine in it.
Note the bare alloy rocker cover and 2 large bolts in the middle of it. In one of the pics you can even count the 6-bolts on the flywheel.
The car it came out of was a 1992 UF Nimbus, white in colour and it had colour coded white front and rear bumpers.
Actually both of my white Nimbus' were identical externally in every way, so it would be difficult to identify which ones have the 6-bolt and which ones have the 7-bolt engines in the early UF models unless you open the bonnet and have a look.

Most of the UF Nimbus' you see on the road these days are the 1994-1998 models with the 7-bolt 4G64 16-valve engine.
Note that the 7-bolt engines have a newer style rocker cover with a breather hose coming out from the top of them, many small bolts holding the rocker cover on, plus it is hard to miss the big embossed words '16-valve' on it.
If you are after a 7-bolt 4G64, then just look for a 1994-1998 UF Nimbus. They have a chrome grille and are 2-tone in colour. They are a 100% certainty for the 7-bolt 4G64 2.4 engine.

If you are trying to track down a rare 6-bolt 4G64 engine, then look up 1991-1993 UF Nimbus models in the newspapers, online or at the wreckers. They are as pictured below with the rounder front end, smaller front grille and different front bar, bonnet and headlights to the 94-98 models. Basically the same front end as my old white one as pictured in the attachments.
These Nimbus' will either have the 6-bolt 4G64 (1991-1992) engine or the 7-bolt 4G64 (1993-1994) engine.
So it's worth checking under the bonnet to make sure which version of engine it has!! :)
 

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Question also, been looking aronud at replacement parts etc for the engine. can i use some evo gear ie , cams, valve springs valves etc from evo? or is the vr4 head different ?
 
Yes - an EVO head is different to a VR4 head - there's a thread on it somewhere on this forum as it's been asked in the past.
Yes - you can use an EVO head on a VR4 block (my engine has this setup) - you need to make some modifications, in particular enlarge the diameter of the stud holes in the head.


Rob - great info posted as always, here's another question for you!

If I say......... had my hands on a......... G4CS 6-bolt block(!) could I take the 6-bolt crank from a 1991-1992 model UF Nimbus and use that if I wanted to maintain 2.4litres of unstroked goodness?

I'm trying to work out if I want to do a 2.4 long rod setup or a 2.1 destroked setup....
 
Yes - an EVO head is different to a VR4 head - there's a thread on it somewhere on this forum as it's been asked in the past.
Yes - you can use an EVO head on a VR4 block (my engine has this setup) - you need to make some modifications, in particular enlarge the diameter of the stud holes in the head.


Rob - great info posted as always, here's another question for you!

If I say......... had my hands on a......... G4CS 6-bolt block(!) could I take the 6-bolt crank from a 1991-1992 model UF Nimbus and use that if I wanted to maintain 2.4litres of unstroked goodness?

I'm trying to work out if I want to do a 2.4 long rod setup or a 2.1 destroked setup....

thats what often happens, is they put a g4cs crank in a 6bolt block. so the other way will work too...

how did you end up with a block and no crank?
i think there are 2.6 cranks for the g4cs.

yea, i toying with the longrod option for my g4cs.
 
If going to the trouble of an engine build with new forged rods and pistons etc, then you might as well spend the bit extra for a new forged stroker crank too imo. Especially if building a 7-bolt stroker bottom end due to the 7-bolt evo crankwalk problems. But if u wanna do it on the cheap with an oem Nimbus 2.4 crank... then thats good too but the oem crank will not be as strong obviously.
 
I am looking to do a 94mm crank 162mm rod setup in a 4g64 block for my next engine, but not until I have the drive line
sorted enough.

Best of both worlds there, a bit of capacity and a nice long rod
 

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