Wide body GGSR

4GTuner

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SIVART said:
it will look good, you should blend the rear door in like a evo 789 style

yer i might.....

i start maybe this week end... cars off the road for a few weeks, its going back to N/A due to all the attention from the Police etc.... but back to Turbo when the new engine installed......

will update progress soon...
 
I personally say put all the lights to stock. Just make it wide body and it'll look the best.

Keep it a galant. You don't want to butcher it.

Did the cops get ya with the turbo setup??
 
bazeng said:
I personally say put all the lights to stock. Just make it wide body and it'll look the best.

Keep it a galant. You don't want to butcher it.

Did the cops get ya with the turbo setup??

i was thinking about the stock lights.... and LED the internalls.... hurm...

and nah, havent even been asked if its turbo yet... and considering where my turbo is mounted, i dont want the head aches of n EPA from a cop that has no idea what his doing... i'll build another manifold for the new engine to put it back in a stock form position...... well kinda, its huge and not easy....
 
suddenly my 17X9's dont look soo wide anymore.....

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evopwr said:
hahaha thats phat as jay! you might have to go same road as me... 17x10s :)

yer bro lookin for going that way.... but i'll be happy with R34 GTR rims 18X9's all round...
 
woohhoo looks good man.
if u need a hand with the glass work, gimme a buzz bro
love to come get my hands dirty on that....looks tuff
 
got lazy, thought i'd try the kitty hair body filler stuff instead of fiberglass....
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kaotik said:
hmmmm :( i wouldnt have done that if i were u man.
i would almost guarentee thats gonna crack on you really badly-_-

oh well..... its the bottom layer to cover all the welding then proper putty on top.... see how we go... car wont be sprayed till summer anyways...... cause i want a BBQ for the peoples helpin me spray!
 
evopwr said:
should have filled it with weld, and ground that smooth! but thats more effort

oh no, that was done.. theres a spot weld every 10mm.. all the welds are 5mm lower the then surface, so the filler will sit nicely, less prone to cracking.. but then again its metal... i'll wait till summer before it starts to go nuts on cracking..

on the other hand, welding sheet metal constantly will also force it to move out of shape etc..... even spot welding cause's it to move slightly...
 
theres this stuff called 'Metal Mend' which is much better than fibreglass reinforced filler (kittyhair).. i think its less prone to cracking too.

-alex
 
A great job your've done there.

From what I can gather that Metal Mend is resin based product with metal as filler. JB offer some similar stuff, as well as 2 part epoxy based (with talc and metal fillers).

Epoxy is a lot stronger when flexed than polyester based products. Polyester based body filler is even more brittle because of the filler used. When epoxiing, it is best to choose an appropriate fiberglass to reinforce. I use 540gsm unidirectional to laminate snowboard cores. If the core didnt snap first, it would almost be possible to bend it around in a 180 degree bend. I vacuum bag it to remove air and degass it. It also removes eccess resin so its not as thick and therefore bends and not split/crack.

Anyway, back on course. What about soldering. They used to do that to the c pillars to rear quater back in the days. In fact I saw on Gasolene once, the guys make up a whole corner (from light bucket to top, bottom and side) of a TR4 ??? front gaurd from solder which was then filed and sanded back. It looked smick.
 
i'v never had problems with the normal Auto Bog on panels that dont move etc, but when it comes to fenders and such i tend to weld everything solid....

for some reason i'm starting to like the rough look.... dunno if i still want to blend in the doors or not.. kinda matches my front...

i think i should have bought a 2 door lol..

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