Base map for 4G63

Does anyone have a Autronic SMC base map for the 4G63?

Ecm tuning have the stock evo 1-3 base map available.

Download their logging software, then you can look at the afr and timing targets, and punch them into your load cells on your software. looking at the base map the timing targets look reasonable. Enough to get you started, maybe take a few degrees up the higher revs to be safe until its tuned.
The low (crusie) load cells are at the top rows, with higher load cells (on boost) at the bottom rows, ive seen some software where this is the other way around, so be mindful of this.


Download the, Early access - v3.20.174
http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads.php?osCsid=0t4ad5bi78r679l8vffgq58227


And here is the maps, open it in the above software, so look at you high octane and high timing map. The evo 1-3 maps are up the top.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3liteconfigs

P.S i love ecmlink!

milkandoj, do you know if we can load the evo8 map with any benefits on a more or less stock evo1-3 motor?

i am running the evo 8 map.....that is what it came with. it possibly needs a degree or two of low end timing added, but other than that its pretty good.

You can, i asked for the evo8 maps to be loaded coz i though it was all good, but now i want the stock vr4 (1g map), my car ran better on the 1g maps but they are very aggressive on boost.
Starting with either map your going to play with the timing on boost anyway, so the advantage of using the right map for the motor, is in the cruise areas, spooling our slower turbos, and the timing when you've backed the throttle at high revs, it will actually suite the motor.
The evo 8 map on my motor was bad in the spool areas as on an evo8 the car is already on boost when mines spooling, so that area was really rich and no timing. Spools like **** in comparison.

Personally i think its stupid now, its a different motor. Id rather start with the map made to suit the motor's characteristics at cruise and the transitional areas.
Then punch in weak timing for the areas on boost, say 12* advance to be really safe. Set the afr targets, then wind up the timing and boost from there.
Well that's what i'm gonna do this week anyway.

The evo 1-3 maps are a bit softer on boost. Ive added a pic of whats meant to be vr4 rs timing maps, they are way too aggressive on boost for my car, the timing targets are in the high 20's to low 30's timing on boost, id say my car would be running around 15-18 degrees when i wind the boost up aroudn 20psi, i hope.
But using this map the cruise timing will be what mitsi thought is best are cruise and the transitional areas, i will have to play with the spool area to set the transition on boost to be later as im on boost around 3700, later than a stock vr4 rs the map was designed for.

So ill just take timing up top but leave at the cruise and spool areas. notice this has the high load cells at the top where as ecmlink has it at the bottom.

I signed up to yahoo groups to be able to download the stock 1g maps, so if someone wants them pm you email address and ill email you the excel files. Saves you signing up.
The 1g maps, and the vr4 rs maps have much more timing at cruise, than the evo 8 map which would suit the low compression more.
The stock evo 1-3 maps however, use much less timing in the cruise areas, so the evo 8 maps actually are more aggressive in comparison.

So an evo 8 maps is more aggressive compared to the evo 1-3 maps, but less aggressive compared to the 1g maps.

To get the evo 1-3 maps and compare the evo8 maps, just download the ecmlink software and then the maps in the liteconfigs page i posted and you can have a look, can look at evo 8 maps and the ralliart maps (wonder if that just the map people were paying heaps to buy an ecu with it loaded on haha?), and one he has changes slightly in the spool area too.

Ive worked on an autronic smc before,very similer to haltech e6k,just be careful with how they have wired the computer up,for example if your running standard injectors some people will wire the injectors up in batch fire mode,which is 2 injectors firing at the same time,because you can get more fuel in that way.
Standard mitsubishi setup is all seperate firing and when the motor needs short boosts of fuel the computer fires all the injectors at the same time apparantly.also the timing for mitsubishi relies on the knock control,but the is no knock control autronic so the ignition curves might be more aggresive.
That RS timing table shows the rpm range but dosent give the manifold pressure ,which the autronic will need.on 14psi boost my vr4 motor cant run over 19degrees advance timing or it will knock.
But on saying that by all means check out the maps ,i am interested as well to see the difference,just check on your ecu setup first.

I contacted Autronic and told them what modifications I had and they provided me with a base map. Also told me what needed to be changed to run the later model PNP on the early Evo II.

Was very helpful and I made them aware that it was second hand ECU that I had purchased.

http://www.autronic.com.au/

I made a technical enquiry.

I know this is really dumb but once the car runs and drives why not take it to a decent tuner and spend the $600 or so dollars and have it tuned right.

timing is pretty important in the whole scheme of things. you can DET on light cruise and you dont even hear it.

As a point of interest mine only has 10deg at full load @ 19PSI (very safe) your talking 18deg
what is your static comp? do you know? that will also determin timing at max load @ boost

I'm not trying to flame anyone here but seriously it could be the difference between a rebuild in 3 months or 3 years.

Mine was used as a starting point for the tune. Just saved me tuning time and dollars.

I get the top end tuned on the dyno and a quick tune for the off boost stuff, Then I finish off the fine tuning and get the car smooth to drive.

Dont get me wrong! as a base tune get what you can get, but dont just think that will be OK because it had the same mods as yours. My base tune had way too much timing at 0 kpa for my motor but I also run a static comp of 9.3

mine runs 20deg at max load, havent heard it ping over the noise of the watsegate yet

Bare in mind that your actual compression ratio will depend on your static compression ratio and the overlap from what ever cams you are running.

Did you still need the base map?

Yes. I sent an email to the autronic tech help guru. He wants to know the firmware version first but I will have to power it up to find that out.

Does anyone have an E6X base map for an EVO1/2/3, still using the AFM and all sensors

Basically i bought a Haltech E6X and patch loom, suppose to be a plug and play with the correct base map

So far i have tried 2 base maps for the 4G63 and none actually start the car, it it keeps doing it winding but wont ignite

1st was supplied by haltech called "Mitsu 4g63 2.5bar_base_batch.6XM"

The other 1 was the 1 Rob got with his old E6X called "Mitsubishi_4G63_Stock_2.5bar.6XM"

So im asking if anyone is or was using a E6X on their stock EVO engine, retaining all EVO sensors and AFM and has saved the base map
or had the same prob and got it working, please get back to me asap

I know its not my coil pack or ignitor coz i plug the stock ECU back in and it fires up fine

I know your an EX6 map. But here's the base 2g and 1g timing maps below with some good explanations.The afr maps arnt there but i'm sure you could find them. Or downloadthe ecmlink software and download the map and have a look.

Thought id put it up for the masses, or you could even punch it in to get you to the tuner and to start them off. Notice how much more aggressive the 1g maps.

http://www.jeffgst.com/id20.html

i have an e6x map ive been running on my vr4 motor in the mg for the last 5years.i tuned it myself from scratch,but its for 450cc injectors doubled up in batch fire mode.even have the idle speed working sortof,
i dont think the haltech e6x can use your afm,mine only gives me the options for internal or external map sensor,or tps only.
if you have a laptop then use the ritmo usb to serial convertor cable.it works on my laptop with win7 and my haltech e6x,you can then see whats happening in online mode,

I just want to be able to start the car so i can drive it to a tuner lol Haltech said it will work with all factory sensors including air flow meter, basically plug in and drive

At the moment the car is just winding over but doesnt fire, pretty sure im getting fuel, dont think the spark is set up right

The injection Parameters are set to Sequential, and spark mode is set to distributor, Internal toggle on?

I basically saved the screen on what the stock base map is set as, i havnt touched anything on it