126 replies to this topic

[jack be nimble]

I dunno if your head is on or off. But when head is off my spring compressor consists of a f clamp from bunnings and a tube the similar size to the spring retainers. The tube is about 1.5" long and has a window in the side to access the collets and flick them out.
Just position the tube and tighten the fclamp. I havent had any trouble with springs too tight yet. Remember to whack each spring to jar the collets loose.

[penngwyne]

Head is still on
Apparently I just need a bigger hammer to make the tool work. Even bigger than this one



Ahh!
I hate hitting things with hammers but if I have to...

[Django]

when working at a radiator shop we would pressure test the systems with around 16psi. Most cooling systems run at 14psi.

[BYBY5L]

shame ya heads not off or ya could just use a socket and hammer and hit it on the retainer, popped all mine off in about 5 minutes,
good idea with the bike pump with gauge, i use to use the How squishy is the pipe test too

[penngwyne]

Well bigger hammer worked well to get the retainers out (basically just like a long socket with magnets to catch the keepers) but the tool geometry and the way the spring retainer is fitted means its not going to work to replace the springs because the inside of the tool hits the valve stem before the spring is compressed to the point where the keepers go into place. (I hope that made sense)

Tried extending the outside of the tool to achieve earlier spring compression but I am not physically strong enough (or heavy enough) to actually compress the spring to the point where the keepers will drop into place.
The Euroexport tool looks like it is a must for me and damn the expensive postage.

Money wasted, lesson learned.(Buy what you know works)

Edited by penngwyne, 27 June 2013 - 06:35 AM.

[BYBY5L]

ya could take it to a machine shop to re-assemble ya head only costs about 30 bucks, but then i spose i dont know how many engines ya plan on building too,

[penngwyne]

Euroexport tool was great to use made the valve seal replacement job a pleasure. Old seals were shot.
Haven't taken the head off the motor, it's going back together and the low compression can wait until next time.
Have spent much time doing things on VR4 and going to Melbourne with daughter for Comic con. That was fun.
VR4 is different with 3 inch pipe and slightly bigger turbo and ralliart wheels.I'm too old to be a hoon.

[penngwyne]

All back together, working and no loud bangs so must have the timing right.
No coolant or oil leaks evident after running around town
Maybe take it for a test run to Mt Gambier tomorrow (about 100k away)

[penngwyne]

No it's not right, it's making a whirring noise. (even though it seems to be running alright)
Must have bumped the balance shaft out of timing when I discovered I had the timing belt rotating the wrong way (I hope)
(the little arrows said dickhead quite loudly)
Now I have to do it again don't I.

[penngwyne]

OK so I'm a newby.
Took the beast to my favourit mechanics.
After some listening, timing cover off again, found unexpected leaking crankshaft seal, (which was lucky!)
Took crank pulley off (love rattle gun) and it was obvious (eventually) that crank timing plate had been rubbing on B belt.
(luckily B belt doesn't seem to be hurt just wore a little rubber off the side)
Looks like I had put the B belt tensioner pulley on upside down. (The flange goes on the outside)
Replaced crank seal (and cam seals to be sure).
A long day, final assembly and run in the morning
Many thanks to Leon and David at Naracoorte Automotive Services for letting me work in their space, use their tools and giving advice as needed.

Edited by penngwyne, 20 August 2013 - 10:51 AM.

[Django]

Good stuff mate.

[jack be nimble]

As long as we are learning.

Good stuff. Glad its sorted out

[penngwyne]

You wouldn't believe how much noise the heat shield on the cat makes with one bolt broken off. Now quiet again.

 

Fitted a boost gauge just so I know what it's doing. As it is stock expected about 7psi.

 

BIG surprise! Straight up to 10psi from around 3000 rpm peaking at 14.5 around 6,500.

This is about the same as Doom's (2nd) VR4 which is somewhat modded and has a boost controller.
Is this a fault or has it been tinkered with? Who knows? If the gauge is right this explains why it gets up and goes.

No boost controller that I have ever seen either. 

[penngwyne]

Just come back from a 3,000 Km trip and have used no oil and have not had any smoke issues so must have fixed the problem.
No intention to rebuild now, will wait until next timing belt change to maybe remove the balance shafts.

 

The boost gauge is a wonderful thing to save fuel by staying off boost and keeping the right foot steady.

Travelling around 100 to 110 (sticking to speed limits) 

Averaged 10 L/100 km on the trip (about 30 mpg) and actually got down to 9L/100 Km once or twice.

 

Did 518Km on my last leg and may have made it home but chickened out and put in 10L at Edenhope.

(550 - 518 only left 38 km and I had 64 to go)

[penngwyne]

A rattle has developed.

Smooths out over 4,000 rpm and rattles like buggery as it comes down through the revs.

At times sounded like a diesel.

 

Back on the jacks again, timing cover off and all the etc that go with it. (I'm getting quite good at this)

 

Discovered timing belt tensioner was on the way out. I can actually push the rod in a couple of mm with my hand.

This is a bugger as it has only been in the car about 30,000Km.

 

New OEM from Amayama trading (less than $90 including post), fitted and motor purrs like a kitten now.

 

Look at the difference between after market and OEM (the top one)

 

 

 

[Benzo4gT]

Woah, that's a bit of a difference! Mine all look like the bottom one.

[jack be nimble]

Excellent diagnostics there. Good work.

My boost gauge seems to be miles out. Id be testing yours too.

Pretty good economy figures too.

[penngwyne]

Woah, that's a bit of a difference! Mine all look like the bottom one.

Yes the OEM one looks like the one in the manual (funny that) and it came in a Mitsubishi box too
Also the pin in the OEM one will not even go through the holes in the other one which are quite small

I don't know if it was just practice but it seemed easier to adjust the tension pulley too. Could be as a result of the bigger holes?

 

 

Excellent diagnostics there. Good work.     

My boost gauge seems to be miles out. Id be testing yours too.  

Pretty good economy figures too.  

Thank you for the compliment     There is something to be said for being a bit paranoid about strange noises

I would welcome suggestions on testing a boost gauge

Economy done by staying off boost and accelerating very gently.  Good on the Hay Plains but not so good in the hills.

Edited by penngwyne, 21 March 2014 - 01:16 PM.

[penngwyne]

Can anyone tell me how wide (from front to back) an original Mitsi tensioner pulley for the RVR is??

 

Talk about being paranoid.

After I got it back together and on the ground I started it up and there is another big rattle.
Back up she goes bottom timing cover taken off (with all of the usual other bits off too) and:

 Behold the tensioner pulley is now scraping on the timing cover!

It was not so before!

 

The after market tensioner pulley is actually wider by a mm or so than the idler pulley, so the outside edges of the pulleys don't line up???

Is this normal?? Or have they given me a "near enough"pulley??

 

Or has something come loose?????

Bugger being mildly anally obsessively paranoid I'm going to have to take it apart and have a look.
Might have to order an OEM pulley from Japan

 

(Is my favourite song  "It's got to be perfect"?)

[jack be nimble]

To many people, take second best. But I wont take anything less.

Might pay you to start it before you put it all back together next time.