Still Not A Re-build, just fixin' things

[4piknup]

I used my boost leak tester (search threads started by me) that has a gauge on it.

Also maybe you could put 20psi in your spare tyre at garage then plug gauge into spare when you home. Will take some imaginative pipework tho.
Maybe your bike pump has a gauge?

 

[penngwyne]

To many people, take second best. But I wont take anything less.

Might pay you to start it before you put it all back together next time.

Well I did but it was before I put the timing belt covers on.
Didn't really expect the pulleys to touch because it wasn't before, so something has changed up in there.
Perhaps the new tensioner has moved the pulley into a different position?"
Or maybe the aftermarket pulley is deeper than it needs to be?
The only good thing is I am getting quite quick at doing this.
Just shows you doesn't it
If it's not one thing.....

 

[penngwyne]

I used my boost leak tester (search threads started by me) that has a gauge on it.

Also maybe you could put 20psi in your spare tyre at garage then plug gauge into spare when you home. Will take some imaginative pipework tho.
Maybe your bike pump has a gauge?

I will have a go at this later.

 

[penngwyne]

There is two types of tension pulleys. One is smaller and fits rvr and late evos, the bigger one is what I got and made a nice cut on plastic cover and then I heated it up and pushed it out to accommodate bigger pulley.

ps: when I say bigger I mean same diameter but wider.

Hah! This has answered my question

 

[penngwyne]

Pulley just arrived from Japan via Sydney
Considerable difference in width.
Will take photos when i have finished painting front room and reassembling bedroom or I will be init up to there.

 

[vr401]

Pulley just arrived from Japan via Sydney
Considerable difference in width.
Will take photos when i have finished painting front room and reassembling bedroom or I will be init up to there.

We all learn by our mistakes.

 

[penngwyne]

We all learn by our mistakes.

Yes I should never have started painting

 

[MDK87]

It was good to read your progress mate. Thanks for the updates/info.
I have an auto RVR for which I'll be doing the valve stem seals soon, along with timing belt etc.
I was going to use a timing kit I had sitting here for my VR4 so it was good that I read your thread beforehand!

 

[penngwyne]

As promised photos.

Just before I took the pulley off (I nearly forgot to take the pic hence the partly undone bolt)
The cable tie is to keep some tension on the belt so I don't have to re-do all of the timing.
There are also a couple of bulldog clips on the cams to hold the belt in place up there.
You can see that the pulley sticks out past the belt a bit more than the idler pulley




Job done. There is not much difference but it is noticeable and stops the horrible noise.

 

[penngwyne]

Here's a photo of the difference
As I said it's not a lot. Unfortunately I forgot to run the Vernier over the OEM one before I put it in
The a/m one is approx 33.65mm deep (outside measurement) and I guess the OEM is 1-2mm shallower



The most noticeable difference is in the position of the mounting bolt on the OEM part (bottom one) which is much closer to the outside of the pulley.
This must make quite a difference to the position of the pulley when the belt is tensioned.
I don't know if there is a difference in the distance from the back of the pulley to the back of the centre, but there is certainly more metal to metal contact for the OEM pulley (the centre is bigger of course)

What do you think??





Also just to make it look nice (and they were cheap)

 

[penngwyne]

Oh yes!

I still haven't finished painting but I think I'm getting away with it






(Because now I'm doing some plumbing)

(and gardening)

(and laundry)

(and whatever I'm told)

 

[4piknup]

Hey I remember reading about this somewhere now. That some engines run the belt 1mm further out than others. I thought it was a 1g-2g difference. And it was mentioned as part of the difference in oem cam wheels. It wasnt meant to effect aftermarket wheels as they are just built a bit wider.

 

[MDK87]

Nice, where'd you get those ign lead clips?

 

[penngwyne]

Nice, where'd you get those ign lead clips?

From Amayama trading Part No MD121633
Ordered as an add on to save postage when I got the pulley

And OH bugger

I have another coolant leak as of today just!

 

[penngwyne]

Hey I remember reading about this somewhere now. That some engines run the belt 1mm further out than others. I thought it was a 1g-2g difference. And it was mentioned as part of the difference in oem cam wheels. It wasnt meant to effect aftermarket wheels as they are just built a bit wider.

The Meek ones were supposed to be EVO3 which is supposed to be the RVR
If the EVO3 is a CE9A then they are the same part number as the N23WG

I suppose I could have heated the cover and bent it out a little?

 

[penngwyne]

Saw fluid on the ground after I pulled into the Woollies car park and went (in my usual paranoid way) Is that me??/ and it was!.

Took off the inlet tube to the manifold and under there found an inch long split in the heater hose which was just weeping fluid
and just about to open up and let it all out..
Lucky boy again I am!
Lucky I wasn't out on the road at 110 kph, I might have had some expensive stuff to do.


it's a heads up to change ALL of the old hoses to avoid letting out the steam.

 

[4piknup]

Always looking pays off.

 

[penngwyne]

Didn't realise new hoses would be so hard to put on. Especially the long one on the oil filter cooler. Lots of swears!

Must remember next time not to twist old heater hoses to break the seal when taking the old ones off, 'çoz it deforms the heater pipes, which are quite thin walled, and makes your heart go pitter patter when you think you have f$cked them. Luckily I managed to get them reasonably circular again.
Had to re-position a couple of clamps and tighten up a couple but now have no leaks.
(Did all this a couple of weeks ago but been off the computer for a while)

Bubble in hose to inlet manifold reaffirmed my paranoia in replacing all of the hoses.

Still checking levels to make sure I got all of the leaks.

 

[penngwyne]

Did the boost leak test thing eventually
I managed to pressurize the system before the manifold up to 20 psi with a car pump
Couldn't hear any leaks and the system slowly depressurized
Blocked off all of the pipes to the pcv system etc and tried with the manifold in the system
The only leak I could hear seems to be on the front end of the butterfly shaft in the throttle body?

is this normal or should it be sealed by an o ring or something.
Can't find any exploded drawings of it so assume its not a piece you are supposed to take apart?

Used my flexible directional aural leak detector
(A piece of small diameter plastic pipe with a small funnel in the end so I don't perforate my ear drum with the pipe)

 

[deepsouth]

Hey penngwyne, I just did the boost leak test this weekend and found a leak similar to where you are talking about. Get a spray bottle with water and dishwashing soap, make it fairly thick and spray heavily around the area, gives a much needed visual to find those pesky leaks you can hear.
Mine was in the throttle body itself, there is a screw or something in the top at the back where mine was coming out of, see "update" thread for pics.
My other one was coming right out of the middle of the Idle controller, looked like the internal seals had become cactus.
I sprayed a truck load to find that one, literally had drown the controller to get a visual so keep persisting.
Where did you get the hose from and do you happen to know the part numbers or can point me in the right direction, mine is due for a replacement.
Thanks