14 replies to this topic

[CLuTZ]

Has anyone done it?

 

The top end of my 6-bolt VR4 'EVO' engine needs a freshen up and I thought I may as well clean and rebuild the intake manifold while i'm at it. It's an "ECI Multi Turbo Intercooler" Cyclone intake. Are these any different in design than the "Cyclone Turbo Intercooler" or is that the AMG 'ECI Multi' intakes only?

 

 

 

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[bazeng]

Different to the AMG. Same as jspec cyclones from appearance.

I would suggest not to split the manifold due to difficulty in getting gaskets.

Degrease and hose is all I would do.
Then smooth and paint or polish the top.

[CLuTZ]

Thanks Barry. The gaskets were going to be my next question!

Is a media blast and powder coat out of the question?

 

Should I consider an N/A intake manifold instead? I am running a TD05 20G @ 25psi and Kelford 264/260

Edited by CLuTZ, 14 January 2016 - 08:28 PM.

[blackvr]

I made more power from 4000 rpm on with the NA/Aspec log type manifold, but gave away a little torque down low. However, running with E85 fuel, it really didn't feel any worse at the lower revs and light load areas

[MDK87]

How much more power Mike? Did you do back to back dyno testing of an aus spec ECIMulti vs Cyclone?

I've been scouring the net for the last week looking for info to see if anyone has done any comparative dyno testing. I was thinking to do it myself but I cbf taking that chunky ass Cyclone off. If you have some dyno results with only the manifold changed between runs that would be epic..!

I was going to swap mine out for an aus spec manifold but I think I'll try tinkering with the Cyclone before discarding it. I prefer low rpm response over high rpm peaks.

 

Mike, what do you think the best way of switching it would be? RPM vs MAP? Using the stock vacuum actuator, you can set it to whatever RPM you wish. Ultimately I think the best way would be to do two dyno runs with the runners fully opened and closed, and base the switchover point to where the torque curves cross over.

 

Though by the same token, if using a wastegate actuator, the runners will be switched over only once positive pressure has built up in the manifold, and you'd assume that once forced induction comes into play, a long high velocity air route wouldn't really play much of a part in volumetric efficiency and the higher spring tension and/or options to use a flow control valve would offer progressive transition of the butterfly valves?

 

Opinions? I'm leaning towards the former, you can't argue with results, but it would be nice to hear from people that have more experience with them.

 

Also Dre I believe the gaskets are steel. Nigel pulled one apart the other day and said so.

Here you go. The bloke reckons there was a lot in it - http://www.dsmtuners...-ported.302154/

 

EDIT: Sorry to hijack the thread, but I thought you might benefit from knowing too Dre. Otherwise, feel free to PM me Mike - cheers!

Edited by MDK87, 20 January 2016 - 01:05 AM.

[jack be nimble]

Bazeng flow tested a heap of intakes on here. The thread will be around.

id use the stock vacuum actuator.

Would be interesting to log its movements, just because the actuator (may?) see boost and vacuum.
i presume vacuum and small boost sees the small runners (with perhaps a spring to hold it shut) and when on boost, it opens, but with a solonoid to hold it on the small ports at some times. (When engine cold?)

[jack be nimble]

I think maf would be the best for switching times.

[MDK87]

Actually yeah I never thought about MAF. Could possibly be a good contender. Might get a bit tricky getting a clean reliable switch from it though. I plan on going speed density, thats why I never thought about it.

 

The actuator only ever sees atmo (at rest) and vacuum (active) and is switched at 4,100RPM on a stock ECU.

 

Would be good to see Cyclone vs Aus spec manifold dyno results, if anyone knows of any floating about.

[jack be nimble]

Ebay sell a photoelectric switch for a few $$. Remove light sensor and add the maf output. Adjust the onboard adjuster to your required switching point.
it will give you a dpst relay to work the solonoid.

if you wanted rpm switch, it might do it from the tacho wire, but that has like 50v on it or something so might need a voltage divider.

It would certainly work on your map sensor.

[MDK87]

That is a good idea. RPM window switches are like $50.

Mind posting a link of the exact device you're talking about? Cheers.

[jack be nimble]

141636286952
ebay item no^

[jack be nimble]

http://www.autospeed...switch&A=113008

autospeed article to help.not sure how to trigger it with rpm....(edit. Derr) trigger with cas or cps for rpm.
Id get a couple of switches as they very cheap

Edited by jack be nimble, 21 January 2016 - 10:05 AM.

[blackvr]

Mo, I cant find the dyno sheets... but yes, it was back to back on the same engine within a day. We were using a TD06-20G on E85 and around 27psi. The ASPEC manifold well and truly outperformed the Cyclone dual runner manifold after 4500 rpm. There were power gains ( worthwhile) under 3000 rpm on the Cyclone. We weren't that interested in under 3000 rpm, and were chasing power over all. We stuck with the ASPEC log manifold.

 

I mapped the Cyclone with one of the EGR outputs on the ECMTuning chips . A simple RPM vs Load trigger. Doesn't have to be that tricky ! And yes, the switch point was determined from the crossover point after running long vs short runners only

[MDK87]

Awesome stuff Mike.. Thanks heaps mate 

 

Jack, would you be able to replace the LDR with an AC signal? Might need signal conditioning, but a handy little unit for the price for sure. Cheers.

*End hijack* 

[jack be nimble]

You can replace it with a 0-5v dc signal afaik.
but you only need a diode to turn a full ac wave to a dc/rectified half wave, or a rectifier to turn it to a dc (rectified full wave?) (A double hump shape).
Then a voltage divider if you need to reduce the dc peak.

im not a guru on this stuff, i think enginr is electronics based?

Edited by jack be nimble, 22 January 2016 - 02:37 PM.