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I am running the cordia flywheel on my VR4 engine with the FWD gearbox from the 4G93 n/a CC lancer - using the factory VR4 starter motor. I can guarantee that it works and has been for a year... Cost me $50 for the fly, PP and clutch disc.... (that clutch didn't last long though LOL)...

Earlier sonata's were 4G63's - thats the model you want the flywheel from...

Or an AB/AC Turbo Cordia Flywheel and the VR4 starter...

have one from the 1.8L 4G93 n/a - 7 bolt no step... I think they are different from the 1.5L though (5 bolt?)

seized?... :roll:

Anyone know what this turbo is 49178-01730 (its a TD05 something) A quick google search brought up a number of different answers - but mainly from a 2.6L starion... A guy on PF is selling the comp housing - i just thought it might be worth a hybrid upgrade. EDIT - a continued google search...

Pretty sure the air temp sensor is built into the AFM - thats how the flow is calculated - air density etc...

Yeah this discussion has been had before - try searching.. But personally i would use a cheaper oil like Mobil Synth S or Magnatec - you can change your oil 3 times as often and you will still be ahead... Whatever you do don't use something too light - around 10/20W-40 is best (they are older...

I have a KM225 from an'88 JDM VR4 - good condition... Located in Townsville - i can pack it up and send it for you though... Had it for ages and want to get rid of it - so we can organise a good price.

Too easy then...

Yeah man - thats the norm I thought when doing a VR4 conversion... as compared to a custom mount. You need two separate pieces as sold my meek or from an evo - the top mount and the bracket.. They bolt together (both around $140 from meeks page) You will find that the engine sits a bit higher...

Nope they haven't moved... They were a couple of mm oversized so they took some getting in there... They aren't coming out... Besides they are bolted and the female side of the mount is less than 10mm from either end - they couldn't move any more than 8-10mm out of place anyways. If you were...

Dude - read the how to again... You can easily remove the inserts in under 5mins simply with a die grinder... Cut the metal tube with the die grinder and push it out by hand... This takes a little longer with a hacksaw but it can be done.. Jez 8)

Yeah ok - run richer than stock being the operative there... I agree with that. The main point is really that you aren't going to gain anything without tuning it... Its also important to know that there are AEM options around for similar costs to buying the evo1-3 setup.. Ie. Evo ecu Injectors...

I know what the maps look like - i've chipped and tuned them all before... My point was really to crossover that they run pig rich and without tuning them properly you aren't going to gain anything except maybe being able to run more boost... The off the shelf chip tunes aren't going to gain...

LOL do you seriously expect a 2L ecu to run a 1.8L engine properly? The VE is totally different - even if the airflow is the same the fuel required will be different... IMO - chip it or you are wasting your time

If you run the 2L (evo) ecu with stock map on the 1.8L it will run pig rich and you will lose power... You may be able to run more boost because its got more fuel up high but you will lose out overall... I have seen it more than once - the factory maps are hella rich anyways then you go putting...

Ahh well - have your fun - personally I have a little more mechanical sympathy

Don't get Nolathane - the red ones... Too stiff and no good Go for Super Pro - blue ones - there is also another brand of blue ones (can't remember the name) but they are softer and perform more like rubber. Better geometry etc...

Here is the compressor map - you can see that its peak efficiency range is up to 14psi - but its still fairly good up to about 16psi 25psi - is hardly even shown on the map.... Let alone what its doing to your engine - i would have thought that it would be pinging its little ring off with...