272 cams or 280s
- Thread starter BMGTZ
- Start date
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sorry to high jack, maybe these post should be separated... 
i've studied the circuit board, there isnt much to it, apart from a RF receiver and a couple of relays.
i dont *think* it would be a huge asked to wire it to a switch, a JSpec drivers window diagram is what you would copy as its basically the same.
easily, well no, easy if you know very basic electronics, yes
personally, i like the the remote, you can stand out side the car while it idles and volume up, and volume down
i've studied the circuit board, there isnt much to it, apart from a RF receiver and a couple of relays.
i dont *think* it would be a huge asked to wire it to a switch, a JSpec drivers window diagram is what you would copy as its basically the same.
easily, well no, easy if you know very basic electronics, yes
personally, i like the the remote, you can stand out side the car while it idles and volume up, and volume down
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
window lock button would be ultra stealth!
to4garret said:yea needs a auto off though dre, wouldnt work "easily" with a normal on/off
interesting thought i just had though
hook it up to the driver window motor, window up, quiet, window down, loud as fuck
So does it have like a micro switch built in at the muffler so it doesnt wanna keep going once it reaches the end of its travel?
I'm thinking of the a spring loaded switch that is central when off, and you push it one way for open, other way for shut and it springs back to centre by itself. My parents used to have an old Toyota Crown that had a switch like this for the radio antenna This is why I ask if there is micro switches built in so if I just hold the switch in the open position it will just cut power/stop at the end of it's travel (wont try and fuck itself if the fuckwit in the passenger seat keeps holding the switch.)
I reckon I will just have to get one and see for myself, I just have this feeling I will get over the remote very fast.
Richard said:
na it doesnt, even when its open, you press the open on the remote and you hear the relay tick.
thats why you cant use just a normal on/off switch, unless you put a timer in there so for instance, each time you flick the switch either way, it only powers the relay(s) for a few seconds.
i should probably attempt to draw up a diagram, it was my original plan to have the muffler hooked up to an output on the ECU to switch over above 3.5krpm.
but im too lazy hahahaha
The Godfather
Banned
to4garret said:yea needs a auto off though dre, wouldnt work "easily" with a normal on/off
interesting thought i just had though
hook it up to the driver window motor, window up, quiet, window down, loud as fuck
too bad if its raining or freezing cold outside and you want it loud
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
do you know if its just a stepper motor? or is the relay latched and timed
The Varex is great.
After speaking to ROB I purchased one and it works.
I did lose power to my previous exhaust (cutout valve), but it at least sounds stock when closed.
You can easily wire it up to a fixed switch.
You will require a switch like the window switch.
The switch needs to go back into the neutral position otherwise you will burn out the motor. It just needs to supply the muffler either +12v or
-12v.
The only problem I see with the VAREX is when the muffler is cold, it doesn't open. Once hot, it opens... this is probably due to the tolerances of the butterfly and the pipe being to close. But it does help with the seal.
Also, the first recieved I had was dodgy... so I think there is a quality control problem but I replaced it with a working one and it was fine.
Sorry, what was the question about the 280/272 again??
Baz
After speaking to ROB I purchased one and it works.
I did lose power to my previous exhaust (cutout valve), but it at least sounds stock when closed.
You can easily wire it up to a fixed switch.
You will require a switch like the window switch.
The switch needs to go back into the neutral position otherwise you will burn out the motor. It just needs to supply the muffler either +12v or
-12v.
The only problem I see with the VAREX is when the muffler is cold, it doesn't open. Once hot, it opens... this is probably due to the tolerances of the butterfly and the pipe being to close. But it does help with the seal.
Also, the first recieved I had was dodgy... so I think there is a quality control problem but I replaced it with a working one and it was fine.
Sorry, what was the question about the 280/272 again??
Baz
