3076 ar .63 vs .82
- Thread starter 864g
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
Benzo4gT
Operator
It really depends on what power you're chasing and what boost threshold you can live with. If it's a DD and it's going to stay stock my opinion would be .63.
khubner1
Moderator
pends where you want the power if you want it to be lower down the .63 if you want it high up there the .82
Cranked
Donating Members
I have the 0.63 rear on mine and it's great, so responsive and spun up 300kw at 24psi without any drama at all. "Steve" who is occasionally on here has a gsr with similar mods to me, made more power on the 0.82 rear, but after speaking to our tuner was convinced to change into the 0.63 rear after seeing my results and was blown away with the response change, although he did lose some top end.
Im using the 0.82 rear on my GTX3076R, 2 litre. On the dyno I think Mick Motorsports brought it onto boost gradually with the accelerator as comparing the graph to my previous GT3040 (GT3082) turbo with the exact same 0.82 rear housing, the GTX3076R looked like it lost 50hp atw down low til about 5500rpm. This seemed disappointing when comparing the two dyno graphs afterwards of the 2 turbos. The previous turbo was running 26psi, the new turbo ran 28psi so not that much difference in boost pressure.
However, in REAL LIFE WHILST DRIVING at WOT, the dyno graph difference doesn't meant a thing! The GTX3076R definitely feels like it comes on quicker, hits harder and for longer than my old turbo. There's more useable boost for longer in the rev range too. I will need to get another dyno run, possibly on a dyno day somewhere to obtain another graph to compare the 3 runs.
If it was a street car I would definitely say 0.63 rear. For hill climbs and circuits then 0.63 also. For wider open circuits with long straights then definitely the 0.82 rear. The 1.06 rear is too big IMO to provide any efficiency and response for circuit racing out of a 2L engine.
However, in REAL LIFE WHILST DRIVING at WOT, the dyno graph difference doesn't meant a thing! The GTX3076R definitely feels like it comes on quicker, hits harder and for longer than my old turbo. There's more useable boost for longer in the rev range too. I will need to get another dyno run, possibly on a dyno day somewhere to obtain another graph to compare the 3 runs.
If it was a street car I would definitely say 0.63 rear. For hill climbs and circuits then 0.63 also. For wider open circuits with long straights then definitely the 0.82 rear. The 1.06 rear is too big IMO to provide any efficiency and response for circuit racing out of a 2L engine.
When I was talking to the guys at Forced Performance in the 'States they cautioned me against using the GTX3076R with a 0.63 on a stroker engine, saying it would get choked up higher in the rpm range. I'm glad I listened to them, as on the track, my car just feels spot-on for response and pulling power. It's got enough grunt to light up all four wheels and put the car into an AWD powerslide in third gear coming out of a turn.... My dyno chart (refer my Member's Ride thread) shows it's making plenty of useable torque down low in the rpm range.
Yeah I reckon you made the right choice for a stroker for what you want to do Shayne.
I have a dyno of one of my friends EVO II with stroker on E85 with a GTX3076R and 0.82 rear.
He had a Haltech PS1000 installed with a flexfuel sensor, so it got a 98 tune then an E85 tune immediately thereafter.
Here are the results:
98 pump fuel @ 30psi
At 4500 it was 150kw atw.
At 5000 it was 300kw atw
At 6100 it made peak power of 323kw
Maintained over 300kw atw between 5000 to 7000rpm.
E85 Flexfuel @ 30psi
At 4500 it was 200kw
At 5000 it was 320kw
At 6000 it made peak power of 380kw
Rose between 300kw to 350kw between 4800-5300
Followed by over 350kw between 5300-6700
He doesn't take the engine over 7000rpm ever.
There's the benefits of E85 fuel right there.
Interestingly, his previous 2L GVR4 engine made 340kw atw with a GT3076 turbo (not GTX version) with a 0.63 rear housing and 28psi boost on 98 pump.
That was with using the same exhaust manifold and cams. The GVR4 engine had an aftermarket intake manifold though.
Same ECU, same tuner. Same dyno.
I have been in the car whilst it was a 2L on 98 pump. Then the stroker on 98 pump, then E85.
Comparing 98 pump differences only between the 2L and the stroker, the stroker definitely came on boost sooner but was limited to 7000rpm.
The 2L came on about 1000rpm later than the stroker, but was taken to 8000rpm. The 2L made more peak power.
The stroker really feels like its got plenty of torque and took less effort to make the power though.
The 2L screamed its tits off more and could be driven harder in each gear, especially when maintaining rpm around tight corners.
All in all, on 98 pump there were advantages and disadvantages between both setups.
However on E85, the stroker is a completely different animal.
Every good boy deserves fruit.
Some old hags cant always hide their old age.
He who thinks only of number one must remember that this number is next to nothing.
Look both ways before crossing your girlfriend.
I have a dyno of one of my friends EVO II with stroker on E85 with a GTX3076R and 0.82 rear.
He had a Haltech PS1000 installed with a flexfuel sensor, so it got a 98 tune then an E85 tune immediately thereafter.
Here are the results:
98 pump fuel @ 30psi
At 4500 it was 150kw atw.
At 5000 it was 300kw atw
At 6100 it made peak power of 323kw
Maintained over 300kw atw between 5000 to 7000rpm.
E85 Flexfuel @ 30psi
At 4500 it was 200kw
At 5000 it was 320kw
At 6000 it made peak power of 380kw
Rose between 300kw to 350kw between 4800-5300
Followed by over 350kw between 5300-6700
He doesn't take the engine over 7000rpm ever.
There's the benefits of E85 fuel right there.
Interestingly, his previous 2L GVR4 engine made 340kw atw with a GT3076 turbo (not GTX version) with a 0.63 rear housing and 28psi boost on 98 pump.
That was with using the same exhaust manifold and cams. The GVR4 engine had an aftermarket intake manifold though.
Same ECU, same tuner. Same dyno.
I have been in the car whilst it was a 2L on 98 pump. Then the stroker on 98 pump, then E85.
Comparing 98 pump differences only between the 2L and the stroker, the stroker definitely came on boost sooner but was limited to 7000rpm.
The 2L came on about 1000rpm later than the stroker, but was taken to 8000rpm. The 2L made more peak power.
The stroker really feels like its got plenty of torque and took less effort to make the power though.
The 2L screamed its tits off more and could be driven harder in each gear, especially when maintaining rpm around tight corners.
All in all, on 98 pump there were advantages and disadvantages between both setups.
However on E85, the stroker is a completely different animal.
Every good boy deserves fruit.
Some old hags cant always hide their old age.
He who thinks only of number one must remember that this number is next to nothing.
Look both ways before crossing your girlfriend.
to revive an old thread has any one got any dyno charts of .63 vs .82 on a gt/gtx3076?
I bought a tial .63 for new setup but thinking should of went a .82... built 2.0L, tomei 280's, high mount with all other supporting gear.
cheers in advance.
I bought a tial .63 for new setup but thinking should of went a .82... built 2.0L, tomei 280's, high mount with all other supporting gear.
cheers in advance.
You'll just have to drive the car with the 0.63 and then decide if it's what you like/want. If not - buy a 0.82 housing and swap it over and try it again.
It all depends on what you are doing with the car - are you running it on a racetrack where you'll be able to maintain high rpm and keep the turbo spooling so a larger turbine housing won't be so laggy? Or are you street driving it?
It all depends on what you are doing with the car - are you running it on a racetrack where you'll be able to maintain high rpm and keep the turbo spooling so a larger turbine housing won't be so laggy? Or are you street driving it?
4piknup
master of none
I think it will be awesome with either. .63 should be heaps of fun. If evooox numbers are a indication.
go with the .63 now.
go with the .63 now.
Cranked
Donating Members
0.63 would be my vote again
hey guys,
I was looking for dyno graphs to see response through rev range etc not just power figures at specific rpm.
I think the 280's will choke a .63 housing, whilst it may be responsive through mid range it is possible it will fall flat on its face up top as will spin motor to 8k. Keeping in mind a gt35 wheel .63 is very close to a gt30 wheel with .82.
Only time will tell as it will be on dyno early to mid Jan both flex and 98.
I was looking for dyno graphs to see response through rev range etc not just power figures at specific rpm.
I think the 280's will choke a .63 housing, whilst it may be responsive through mid range it is possible it will fall flat on its face up top as will spin motor to 8k. Keeping in mind a gt35 wheel .63 is very close to a gt30 wheel with .82.
Only time will tell as it will be on dyno early to mid Jan both flex and 98.
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Those cams are far too aggressive for both housings. I would run Tomei 272's with a .82a/r
Cams have already made 293kw on a very low reading dyno on 98ron / 26psi on the ridiculous atp stock frame housing with a stock ported manifold, as I said just look for some charts...
New setup is a long runner, high mount with 3" long radial dump much higher flowing than all the oem location gear.
New setup is a long runner, high mount with 3" long radial dump much higher flowing than all the oem location gear.
OK, attached is my first ever dyno with a GT3040 turbo (GT30R), 0.82 rear, 98 pump. Same power figure as yours 292/293kw at the same 26psi boost level. This also had Crower 280 cams at the time so it is probably a good graph to compare yours too. The tuner wasn't a magician and didn't spent much time on it with advancing timings or anything, he just did a normal tune as my car just came out of a run-in street tune and this was its first time on a dyno and taken up to this boost level. I also included a Youtube video for you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgY1Nz3T9Nc
Other factors: GVR4 engine, Magnus intake, 3" icoola piping and large runner custom steampipe manifold. 1mm oversize valves.
If I had the choice to do it all again I wouldn't go 3" piping or larger diameter runners. I would go 2.5" icoola piping, smaller diameter exhaust manifold runners and a 0.63 rear housing to provide much better response on a street car on 98 pump. BUT, the 0.82 rear did provide some other benefits.
After this dyno and all the hype about the GT3040 being a mix-matched turbo and 280 cams being too big, the GT3040 and cams were swapped out to a GTX3076R and to Kelford TX272 high lift cams. The result??? I actually lost power down low all the way up to 5400rpm when the GTX and Kelfords seemed to gain the better ground right up to 8000rpm. Yeah outright power increased from mid to top end, but the GT3040 and 280 cams had made the same power at 500-600rpm sooner than the GTX3076 and Kelfords 272's did!! Go figure.
I can drive on the street off-boost no worries on 98 pump making 330kw @ 30psi boost last year. It sounded lumpy and mean and was quite pleasant and dare I say 'economical' to drive off-boost. If I wanted power I would drop down a gear and floor it. Once you're at WOT and shifting gears at 8000rpm power figures below 5400rpm don't mean shit because you never see below that rpm between shifts. It was more of an outright straight line, get to speed fast kind of setup at WOT. On the highways overtaking it was very surprising how just dropping it back a gear and flooring it would see the car build boost and overtake very easily and surprise yourself when you see where the needle was on the speedo. Is it fun? Only where you can use it and have a lot of space in front of you because in 3rd gear you're already at highway speeds and by mid 4th gear you're around 160-180kmh and changing into 5th a little past 200kmh.
There's a difference between 'fast' and 'quick'. Fast is when you're more interested in getting the most outright speed in a straight line over a long distance. Quick is when you're more interested in getting to a reasonably fast speed in a sooner time frame with better throttle response. On a street car in the city 'quick' is usually chosen because its more fun, especially for a daily driver because outright speed doesnt even come into the equation because there is nowhere to use it.
Other factors: GVR4 engine, Magnus intake, 3" icoola piping and large runner custom steampipe manifold. 1mm oversize valves.
If I had the choice to do it all again I wouldn't go 3" piping or larger diameter runners. I would go 2.5" icoola piping, smaller diameter exhaust manifold runners and a 0.63 rear housing to provide much better response on a street car on 98 pump. BUT, the 0.82 rear did provide some other benefits.
After this dyno and all the hype about the GT3040 being a mix-matched turbo and 280 cams being too big, the GT3040 and cams were swapped out to a GTX3076R and to Kelford TX272 high lift cams. The result??? I actually lost power down low all the way up to 5400rpm when the GTX and Kelfords seemed to gain the better ground right up to 8000rpm. Yeah outright power increased from mid to top end, but the GT3040 and 280 cams had made the same power at 500-600rpm sooner than the GTX3076 and Kelfords 272's did!! Go figure.
I can drive on the street off-boost no worries on 98 pump making 330kw @ 30psi boost last year. It sounded lumpy and mean and was quite pleasant and dare I say 'economical' to drive off-boost. If I wanted power I would drop down a gear and floor it. Once you're at WOT and shifting gears at 8000rpm power figures below 5400rpm don't mean shit because you never see below that rpm between shifts. It was more of an outright straight line, get to speed fast kind of setup at WOT. On the highways overtaking it was very surprising how just dropping it back a gear and flooring it would see the car build boost and overtake very easily and surprise yourself when you see where the needle was on the speedo. Is it fun? Only where you can use it and have a lot of space in front of you because in 3rd gear you're already at highway speeds and by mid 4th gear you're around 160-180kmh and changing into 5th a little past 200kmh.
There's a difference between 'fast' and 'quick'. Fast is when you're more interested in getting the most outright speed in a straight line over a long distance. Quick is when you're more interested in getting to a reasonably fast speed in a sooner time frame with better throttle response. On a street car in the city 'quick' is usually chosen because its more fun, especially for a daily driver because outright speed doesnt even come into the equation because there is nowhere to use it.
Attachments
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
Wanted My RvR stolen in Corby UK help please M530GCD- Latest: Sebastian Yanek
-
