4G63/4G63 Hybrid

4GTuner

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I wanna take a look at a mivec head now... actually, sounds right. Same shit as toyota maybe. 2 solenoids and 2 ref discs per bank on the 2GR. Pity their hall effect sensors give out a freaking weird ass signal... pain in the ass...
 
I will get you a pic of the 7bolt 2.4 block, it has holes in the head face that need to be blocked when bolting a twin cam head on. Would maybe have saved some welding...

Saw this too. Pity he gave up lol.
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-129278.html
Keep going brother...
 
only thing i'd be worried about when you get it working is the turbo facing the firewall with no direct airflow, wont it get alot hotter?
 
I wanna take a look at a mivec head now... actually, sounds right. Same shit as toyota maybe. 2 solenoids and 2 ref discs per bank on the 2GR. Pity their hall effect sensors give out a freaking weird ass signal... pain in the ass...

that is correct, the signal is not constant but almost square wave....

I will get you a pic of the 7bolt 2.4 block, it has holes in the head face that need to be blocked when bolting a twin cam head on. Would maybe have saved some welding...

Saw this too. Pity he gave up lol.
http://www.dsmtalk.c...p/t-129278.html
Keep going brother...

i have done a few EVO 2.4lt conversions and only thing you have to worry about is the water pump... other wise straight bolt up..... unless you are referring to the older 1st-2nd gen 2.4lt? post up though the more we learn now, the better for our future projects!


only thing i'd be worried about when you get it working is the turbo facing the firewall with no direct airflow, wont it get alot hotter?

nah proper heat shielding and it should be fine..... check out a.... Volvo 850 T5 engine bay it is much worse, the turbo has the vac booster and brakes master sitting right next to it, and hardly any heat shielding... bloody good car though.... (yes i know its a volvo :p )
 
I don't see the point going through all that trouble... Maybe to be different yes..


since the 4G63 engine has been phased out.... i have been looking for new ways to cross match parts for future projects.... if may seem useless to you my friend, but to others like my self like to know what options for mods i could possibly do down the track and or interchangeable parts.....



manifold work..
IMAG0461-1.jpg

IMAG0462-1.jpg
 
that is correct, the signal is not constant but almost square wave....

It's meant to be a square wave... problem is that hall effect sensors are meant to generate a square wave that goes from a constant voltage to ground... Best can get out of the toyota one is going from about 4.89V to 2V... motec reads high above 3V and low below 2V... not compatible... not good...
 
It's meant to be a square wave... problem is that hall effect sensors are meant to generate a square wave that goes from a constant voltage to ground... Best can get out of the toyota one is going from about 4.89V to 2V... motec reads high above 3V and low below 2V... not compatible... not good...

ahh..... that sucks.... no converter?


IMAG0463-1.jpg

IMAG0464-1.jpg
 
Only way to fix would be to put transistors in the circuit. Way too complicated and bulky. Ordering GT101 sensors from motec, manufacturing a 2mm spacer plate from aluminium or stainless (inert), slight mod to mounting of it, and it'll be sweet. lol.

Interesting manifold :p looks pretty shallow entry from the 4th cylinder
 
Only way to fix would be to put transistors in the circuit. Way too complicated and bulky. Ordering GT101 sensors from motec, manufacturing a 2mm spacer plate from aluminium or stainless (inert), slight mod to mounting of it, and it'll be sweet. lol.

Interesting manifold :p looks pretty shallow entry from the 4th cylinder

lol it will be fine.... flow tested fine....
 
almost done..
i hate heat wrap...
IMAG0467.jpg


hot side pipe.... just to confuse everyone..
IMAG0470-1.jpg
 
Only way to fix would be to put transistors in the circuit. Way too complicated and bulky. Ordering GT101 sensors from motec, manufacturing a 2mm spacer plate from aluminium or stainless (inert), slight mod to mounting of it, and it'll be sweet. lol.

Interesting manifold :p looks pretty shallow entry from the 4th cylinder

Couldn't you just run a resistor inline and reduce the overall voltage to meet the Motec high/lowsrequirements?
 
Couldn't you just run a resistor inline and reduce the overall voltage to meet the Motec high/lowsrequirements?

Normally yes, in this case no. The sensor seems to have an in-built chip that browns-out when the signal voltage gets to 2V. So when it gets to 2V, signal becomes a triangular toothed wave with a base voltage of 2V, so Vrms increases to above 2V, and the signal isn't any lower... massive pain in the ass. Tried Denso for a tech data sheet on the sensor - no good, is made in japan. Propriety information of toyota. Toyota Australia don't seem to actually have a tech data sheet for it... service manual only provides to test resistance of the sensor to determine health, is output signal checks.

Is not a sensor fault either.... Toyota might have made their ECUs trigger at odd voltages so they would require these specific sensors. The sensors are $160 from toyota or $120 trade from auto one.
GT101s are $60 odd from motec... so am thinking the toyota sensors might be abnormal hall effect sensors...
 
almost done..
i hate heat wrap...
IMAG0467.jpg


hot side pipe.... just to confuse everyone..
IMAG0470-1.jpg

Ha ha. That's not confusing :p very clever though. :) also seeing as there is no turbo on the front anymore. Is there enough room for cooler under intake manifold. Or will heat from rad be too intense there still?
 
Normally yes, in this case no. The sensor seems to have an in-built chip that browns-out when the signal voltage gets to 2V. So when it gets to 2V, signal becomes a triangular toothed wave with a base voltage of 2V, so Vrms increases to above 2V, and the signal isn't any lower... massive pain in the ass. Tried Denso for a tech data sheet on the sensor - no good, is made in japan. Propriety information of toyota. Toyota Australia don't seem to actually have a tech data sheet for it... service manual only provides to test resistance of the sensor to determine health, is output signal checks.

Is not a sensor fault either.... Toyota might have made their ECUs trigger at odd voltages so they would require these specific sensors. The sensors are $160 from toyota or $120 trade from auto one.
GT101s are $60 odd from motec... so am thinking the toyota sensors might be abnormal hall effect sensors...

speaking from experience Toyota engineering for their engines are awesome to say the least.... but the electrical side of things is a night mare.... the old MK3 7MGTE supra's you cant even run a simple SAFC without the ECU throwing a CEL every time you drive it hard...


Ha ha. That's not confusing :p very clever though. :) also seeing as there is no turbo on the front anymore. Is there enough room for cooler under intake manifold. Or will heat from rad be too intense there still?

i have no idea.. i'll tell you down the track...
 

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