4g93p conversion wiring help

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gday all
ive recently installed a rebuilt 4g93p into my ce wagon. i was following an online guide from evocoupe.net (http://www.evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3014)
Just a question about the guide in particular the sentence below


Proton plug Yellow wire to Lancer Plug Yellow wire (you'll need to hook up a test light to determine which yellow wire is the temp sensor and which is the oil pressure switch)


useing a test light how can i determine which is which as im currently having a cooling problem (ie fans are not coming on at running temp). Just want to assure myself that ive hooked this up right before i start going and replacing sensors etc.

Any help is very much appriciated :D
 
Oil pressure wire will be an earth when engine is not running and will be open with engine running, so test light will illuminate with engine off and go off when engine started. The temp sensor will not work like this as it is not a switch it is a variable resistor and the light will glow wether motor running or not.

If you do not want to start the car
You can check it by putting test light on wire under test (using the wire under test as your earth side of test light) then disconnect wire at oil pressure switch and light will go out if it doesn't then try other wire. The temp sensor can be checked like this but the test light may be dim due to resistance.

Hope this helps
 
Worked wonders, now im just having the fan problem. Temp gaugse on the cluster is working and thermastat is opening but fans aint turning on , any ideas? ( have already swapped out the relay with a working one , didnt fix the problem ). My only wonder is , if the gauge is working the switch must be , and maybe between the new harness and the proton harness i must have to connect up another wire for the ecu signal to turn on the fans when temp gauge reaches 40% i think it is...


PLAESE GOD HELP ME!!!
 
Where is your switch? On the radiator or thermostat? The temp sensor and the switch are different plugs

Depending on which looms your using. ie engine loom and engine bay fusebox loom. are there any plugs left over?
 
there are 3 plus on next to the thermostat and no plugs on the radiator ( proton m21 engine loom ) and the ce wagon fusebox loom. The only plug i had to cut and join was the Proton 4 Pin to the Lancer 5 Pin.

Atm ive rerouted the BLUE with YELLOW stripe to headlights so atleast the fans turn on with the lights on, since she was runnin abit warm. Replaced the thermostat anywayz since i got new for $15 which seem to help abit.

I only want to get it working correctly so i dont need to worry , also drive around with lights on in the day lol
 
From memory the proton engines doesnt have a thermo switch on the engine, instead it was on the bottom of the radiator

While the standard na 4g93 sohc was on the thermostat

At the moment u wont have a switch

Your choices sre either get a m21 radiator or an aftermarket thermo switch kit
 
your fan problem probably eminate from not having a thermo fan switch in the radiator. grab a radiator from an automatic lancer 4g93 as it will have the switch in the rad. once you've got a switch in the rad. you'll need to open up your head light loom and locate a green wire with black trace.

the green with black trace if i remember corecltly is not powered and once the car gets to operating temp and requires the thermo fans the switch will close and charge the relay and power them on. easiest way to test this is with a test light and the ignition in the on position tap the wire with it earthed and see if the fans come on if they don't put power to it and see if they do if neither works check your fuse and retry once you find out if it's earth or power wire accordingly
 
omg i didnt even think of that , i have the proton m21 radiator sitting shed.. im install tomoroww and let you know ..

cheers btw :D
 
EVL20T , i have an proton radiator but the core is shot . fans are okay though . Where is this thermo switch supposed to be in the radiator , all i can see is the 2 connectors for the engine fan and aircon fan , apart from that nothing
 
only proton 1.6 and 1.5 use the thermofan switch in the radiator (all single core radiators)
all proton 1.8 use ECU fan control.

with the conversions, you need to wire up the thermofan control... so many people forget to do this....
 
so... from all this

im using a proton engine loom and lancer fuse loom.

do i A: get a radiator with a themo switch in it or

B: wire up the ecu to the harness.

either way can anyone track down a m21 coupe wiring harness so i can double check colours etc.

Cheers
 
Because you have a CE wagon and not a CC wagon, the Radiator fan setup is actually different. Found this out when i put my 93t in my CE wagon.

You can run a CC or Proton radiator with the thermostat switch on the bottom, but you'll still need to play around with the wiring slightly at the plug for it to work.. From memory, its just an additional ground you need..

Hope this helps..

Cheers,
Chris
 
well when i compared the ce wagon and proton radiator literally no diffence, only thing i can find it that the AC fan has a 4pin plug not a 2pin plug, but the 2 other wires on the lancer 4pin goto nothing lol .... very confusing, going to get our elecy at work to have a looksy when he marches in after holidays
 
grr im really needing someone who has completed this conversion to answer this . on the evocoupe website it reads this to fix the reverse problem

"10. Because the Proton uses a different wiring configuration for its reverse light switch on the gearbox, you are going to have to wire up your own and its simple (took a while to figure it out so the hard work is taken care of).
[UPDATE: Been told you dont need to run the 2 wires for reverse, just use the ones already in the engine loom. (red/blue trace, and black/white trace)]
OK, give yourself enough wire to join to and cut off the 2 wires going to the reverse switch (important that they be disconnected so cut them off, electrical tape, and tidy away). Now join your two new wires (say one black and one red) to the wires left on the reverse switch and run the wires through a sheath or conduit on their own along the firewall and in through the firewall as per engine loom. Remember earlier at point number 7 you had to pay particular attention to the 2 white plugs? Well now you need to feed the 2 new wires you made up and position them next to the 2 white plugs which are located behind the front passenger side speaker in the dashboard. Now wire them up accordingly…
New black wire goes to red with blue stripe on the factory GLXi interior loom (white plug with lots of wires)
New red wire goes to the Proton plug with thick black wire with white stripe (white plug with only a few wires on it). It is the black/white stripe wire next to the black/blue stripe wire on that plug.
Your reverse lights will now work"


now i have the red blue trace and black with white trace on the small white connecter on the engine loom side. ive tried connecting up the red and blue trace to the glxi interrior loom red with blue trace on the bigger white connecter. then connected up the black and white trace from the engine loom to the interrior loom black and white trace.

i still have no reverse lights. I have checked that both the red and black on the little white connector are defintly the 2 wires from the reverse sender. Now only the black one goes into the other connected into a red with yellow trace pin. the red with blue trace goes into nothing... apart from connecting them up externally from the connecters and everything else working i still do not have reverse lights..

any ideas?
 
Big thanks to Neil with the Gsr jumbuck for this write up. Its what I used, but I confirmed it as correct by checking wiring and pin positions on the old loom. Think twice and cut once...


Wiring the reversing switch in a GSR harness to the jumbuck dash loom.
You need to disconnect the 2 white dash loom plugs near the ECU.
The reversing switch in the GSR harness has 2 wires,one:
RED with a blue trace,and one:
BLACK with a white trace.
These wires go to the largest white dash loom plug near the ECU.
Once you find these at the plug,CUT the red/blue trace wire off
about 15mm back from the plug.Then CUT the black/white trace wire off
about 15mm back from the plug.
Tape up the 15mm long wires at the plug,as you won't need them anymore.
now look at the smaller of the 2 plugs at one end you will see a heavey
gauge black wire with a blue trace and underneath it in the next row
there is a small green wire with a black trace,CUT these off about 50mm
back from the plug,now the wire ends coming from the harness tape them
up and away as you won't need them anymore.
Ok now thats done connect them like this.
Join the small BLACK wire with the WHITE trace that went to the larger
white plug to the heavey BLACK wire with the blue trace on the smaller
plug. And Join the heaveir Red wire with the blue trace that went to
the larger white plug to the smaller green wire with the black trace on
the smaller plug.OK tape and tidy everything up and now your reversing
lights on the jumbuck will work when you put it in reverse gear.
 
atm ive cut the red with blue trace from the loom side on the lancer glxi side of the big white connector.

i have not yet cut the other colours. but the joining wires from the reverse solenoid to the harness are black/ white trace and red with blue trace.

whats the green?
 
Well maybe your ce wagon has different colours. Remember that quote is for a mitsi engine loom into a proton body loom.

Easiest way for you is to:
Get old engine loom and trace the reverse wires from the sender to the plug.
Note the pin numbers used and the corresponding wire colours in the body loom.
Connect these to the wires you have identified in the new engine loom.

1 wire in the body loom (probably the fat one) will be the power feed to the sender. The other wire will feed to the reverse lights.

Test you have power to the sender when ign is on. (when loom is connected) you may have blown the fuse.
 

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