Built 93T is finished, help me crank her over!

4GTuner

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Yeah pretty sure it would have been running bigger than 510s, I know I'll need the 560s when the car is tuned to its full potential, but with the tune that's on the ecu I think they are too big to get it idling anyway.
I'm getting enough fuel to put out any spark, and I know I'm getting spark because of the backfiring issue before.
 
I might try re gapping the plugs. We don't have a laptop hooked up to the ecu so the only way we are able to advance/retard timing at the moment is by moving the dizzy.
 
I'll try gapping the plugs tomorrow and see how it goes. I'm a bit reluctant to try running the 390s, although I'm pretty sure it wouldn't lean out at idle.
 
Tried everything today guys, re gapped plugs, tried irridiums, re gapped irridiums, tried 390cc injectors, re checked timing, cleaned plugs and tried again, still won't kick over and still super rich.
Everything seems to be fine other than that and when cranking the engine does sound very healthy.
We were hoping to get it idling at least but I think whatever tune is on this ecu is just way to far out to run my engine.
So the plan now is to take it to a tuner and get a base/run in tune set so I can run it in for a bit before taking it back for a final tune.
 
Can you hear the injectors clicking? Perhaps they are full open.... Crank and listen to see if the do in fact click to indicate they closing. Try another fuel pressure reg too as that could be fubar and causing the pressure to be too high. Are you using a air flow meter?? Yes ....then change it as it may be sending wrong signal..
 
Injectors are pulsing so that's all fine, we checked spark by pulling the plugs and cranking while still connected to the leads and they were sparking correctly.
Not running an AFM, and the fuel pressure regulator was running on my previous setup and was replaced about 12 months ago.
I think the injectors are just pulsing at the wrong time, probably when the valves are closing so we are chasing our tails a bit without seeing what map is on this ecu.
 
Dude, you need to hook a PC up to that Haltech and put a EVO 1/2/3 base map onto it, then go thru the proper setup pages where it ask you **** like what injectors your running etc.

You may aswell stand there pissing in the wind otherwise. All you need is a laptop, download the software of the Haltech website (free!) install it on your PC, plug the ECU in, load the base map, go thru the setup pages. Won't even take you an hour to do properly.
 
Yep, I realise I need to get a base map on there at least. We just thought we'd do our best and try to get it idling. Also, I'm just not overly confident in doing the laptop thing myself.
Bought a data-usb cable today and I have a laptop so might give it a go or at least see what tune is on there currently. I'll still be looking to get it on the dyno in the next couple of weeks.
 
Yeah it can seem a bit daunting if you haven't played around with them before, but unless your engine setup is completely unique the base maps will be almost install and turn key. Haltech's website and resource areas are really good and have almost all the info you'll need to get it running. The 1/2/3 base map started and run a 2.3l stroker with 1000cc injectors on my build, with only a few moments to fill in the blanks for injector size, ignition type, VE or MAF and other stuff like that. It'll save you a heap of coin if you take it to the dyno with well sorted base maps.
 
Ok so thanks to George the legend for the Keyspan cable (PM’d regarding postage back), I have been able to load the base map onto the ECU and am getting live readings through the laptop!

However…she still won’t crank over L

Below is a screen grab of the map that was on the ECU when I first plugged it in, it looks as though it was running some sort of time travel machine to me…

IMG_3638_zps513e8ef4.jpg



And below is a video of the readings I’m getting when cranking with the base map on there now. I think my 3 Bar external MAP sensor is either stuffed or hooked up incorrectly as the reading shown is way off. We ended up running a hose to the 2.5bar internal and the readings came back down to -1.9kPa.

http://s13.photobucket.com/user/vin18m/media/IMG_3667_zpsa30aed6b.mp4.html


I’m thinking it has something to do with the aggressiveness of these cams. We are either getting popping from the exhaust or from the throttle body itself, almost as if it is firing when the exhaust/inlet ports are still open.

We were trying to crank it with the 390cc injectors in it and were finding that cylinders 1&3 were leaving the plugs wet with fuel and 2&4 were fouling the plugs. So it seems as though it’s a spark issue we may have, plenty of fuel but not enough ignition. We tried playing around with injector trims, advancing and retarding timing but it basically just changed the amount of backfiring we were getting.

Slowly running out of ideas, I’m sure it’s something trivial whatever it is…
 
Just for ***** and giggles, have you tried swapping your coils over? (1&4 with 2&3) As you describe it, it sounds like you could be 180* out.

From the video, there doesn't look to be much else wrong (MAP obviously)
 
Nah I tried changing it from external MAP to TPS and back to External Map again and still had the same issue. I even tried blowing into the hose like a straw to see if it registered on the screen and it wouldn't with the external but did work with the internal.

Switching leads around could be an idea...
 

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