Advice on RVR Hyper Sports Gear project

[umpc1611]

Hello RVR'ers. I'm new here, so already introduced myself over at the new members area. This particular forum may prove to be the most important factor (besides enthusiasm and deep pockets) for the project I am about to undertake.

I am about to buy what appears to be a great-condition 1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear R that has come up for sale here, as a starting point for an eventual hyper-speed-sleeper project (doing the preliminary research is how I found the 4GTUNER forums). I have done a good bit of research on the 'net, and the vehicle I am considering buying apparently has one glaring "defect": an automatic transmission. This will not be a problem for long, if I am able to source a used manual transmission, because that would have been my first desired mod. This of course leads to all kinds of questions about the direction the project (re-do the entire gearbox/cases/axles in Evo 3, or 4, how readily am I going to be able to import parts and from whom, etc.).

How "realistic" is this (changing out the tranny, I mean)? I imagine that going with an RVR-specific 5-speed manual gearbox would be the most straightforward route. I should be able to find a used one SOMEWHERE, right? Or last ditch, a new one from Mitsubishi in Japan? (big $$$$$$$$, I imagine) Then, will it (a standard box) be up to the task of the future bigger turbo/fuel pump/ECU/tuning mods?

So, just throwing this out there to see what the community has to say/suggest, and get some ideas about the direction and pace of such a project. Thanks again for what appears to be a "safe haven" for people insane enough to want to own and drive the ultimate tall wagon sleeper!

 

[MattL]

Hello RVR'ers. I'm new here, so already introduced myself over at the new members area. This particular forum may prove to be the most important factor (besides enthusiasm and deep pockets) for the project I am about to undertake.

I am about to buy what appears to be a great-condition 1997 RVR Hyper Sports Gear R that has come up for sale here, as a starting point for an eventual hyper-speed-sleeper project (doing the preliminary research is how I found the 4GTUNER forums). I have done a good bit of research on the 'net, and the vehicle I am considering buying apparently has one glaring "defect": an automatic transmission. This will not be a problem for long, if I am able to source a used manual transmission, because that would have been my first desired mod. This of course leads to all kinds of questions about the direction the project (re-do the entire gearbox/cases/axles in Evo 3, or 4, how readily am I going to be able to import parts and from whom, etc.).

How "realistic" is this (changing out the tranny, I mean)? I imagine that going with an RVR-specific 5-speed manual gearbox would be the most straightforward route. I should be able to find a used one SOMEWHERE, right? Or last ditch, a new one from Mitsubishi in Japan? (big $$$$$$$$, I imagine) Then, will it (a standard box) be up to the task of the future bigger turbo/fuel pump/ECU/tuning mods?

So, just throwing this out there to see what the community has to say/suggest, and get some ideas about the direction and pace of such a project. Thanks again for what appears to be a "safe haven" for people insane enough to want to own and drive the ultimate tall wagon sleeper!

Before you go bagging the Auto's realise that these Auto boxes with some minor work can be turned into fully manualised Auto Transmissions with the ability to stall upto 4500rpm (when modified), and change faster than any short-shifted manual. Infact some drag cars use our Auto Transmissions for this reason. You've got a variety of options so you should reconsider the Auto to Manual conversion.

I have a pretty tough Auto and I'm about to give it an overhaul and do some more work on it.

My advice for mods is to do suspension and bushes first and get the car handling good. From there upgrade to a larger turbo, cams and do some alu piping and a good re-plumb of the system. From there build upwards.

 

[Rockabilly]

IPT in the US can build you a strong auto box if you have the $$$.
If you prefer a man, buy one & enjoy it from day 1.
Cheers !

 

[something_wild]

Gotta agree with Rockabilly even though it's probably not what you want to hear. Just buy a manual version and forget all the hassles of a tranny swap.

But....best of luck if you choose to go with the auto. If so, stick with that and build it up tough like Matt ;-)

 

[MattL]

Rockabilly is the person who is doing the work on my Auto; for the record.

An Auto can be fun, but knowing how to set it up and what modifications to do is half the fun.


The other thing not addressed is the difference in ratio for the final drive gear for the Auto and Manual. So you would need to source a rear diff centre with correct ratio and also hope that the manual came with a transfer case.
Not only that, the ECU has a read-out function that won't allow the car to start unless in P or N. without a switch mod for this, you wouldn't be able to start a Manual converted auto.

It's easier to buy what you want and go from there, like I did with my Auto

The only thing I lack is cruise control, and that's on the cards soon too!

 

[something_wild]

^^^^^^^^^wow, swap is even more of a headf**k than i imagined lol

 

[umpc1611]

No doubt! Hey, thanks much for all the replies - and yes: it IS a lot more involved than I thought. MattL is right, and I will probably go with modding the auto for the purpose. I am in the purchase process right now, and the seller is going to hook me up with a buddy of his who tunes Evos here, and we'll see where it goes from there. I'll definitely post whatever advice he gives me, for your feedback.

On getting the box done in the States (from here, Chile), any contact info? Thanks again, all.

 

[MattL]

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/ is the place you want to contact

A few mods worth doing

Upgrade second gear band
High Performance Clutch packs for 1st 3rd and 4th
TL-175 Valve Body Kit
And a modified stall converter (Rockabilly does some work on stall converters which is pretty good)

Other than that, I might have a box for sale soon which will increase oil pressure for a stronger gear change, but it wont be suitable for cars that aren't running the stronger second gear band

 

[umpc1611]

Hey, I got back from the trip to pick up the HSG (as well as a bunch of other business), and after 1000 km (and even a few twisty spots), I am actually quite pleased with the vehicle. I think it's the only one of its kind here in Chile (a fact that's hard to verify as all RVRs are either direct or grey imports here, and the previous owner had this one directly imported a little over 3 years ago, and even it is simply registered as a 1997 RVR 2.0L) - this will make even simple maintenance a "project" in and of itself!

It's definitely quicker than I expected, as well as eminently useful (although we have our 1999 LWB Montero V-6 3500 for that), and so am even more "stoked" than ever to have it producing 1000 awhp. :wacko:

But, it's going to be a while: I have returned to what appears to be the Montero's front end going out, and am so busy I haven't gotten around to verifying the issue. Anyway, I took a couple of pix on the trip back, and want to try to upload them (esp. for those of you who have responded to this thread - proof that at least there's SOMETHING to work with [the car, not me - once a NOOB..., etc.]), so I will have to spend what precious few minutes I have free figuring out how to make my 3.5MB images palatable for 4gtuner.com.

I think I am also going to change the oil next week - a good "first date" for us. So, at the risk of all kinds of sniping, flaming, and other general and assorted noob-deserved humiliations, what's the best oil/filter combination for this gen 4g63t, mated to an auto?

MattL: upgrading the suspension first is definitely the way to go (after getting a handle on the specific maintenance needs) - I won't get "bored" with the current power output for a while yet.

 

[umpc1611]

Oh, forgot to mention (and feel kind of foolish doing so, since I haven't yet verified if it's turbo-back or cat-back): the only modification it appears to have is 2.5-inch exhaust, ending in a what looks like a decent Japanese canister. Huge, for my delicate sleeper-sensibilities, but at least it's quiet. Let's see if these modded photos work...

View attachment 5336
View attachment 5337

 

[MattL]

Looking pretty good there. Nice choice of car

For Oil, I run A 5-50w in winter and shift to a 10-50 in summer (usually as we get quite hot over here) but I do know many of the guys run a 10-40w and some as high as a 20-60w Full Synthetic

Personally I've found that depending on how many kilometres / miles it has done depends on which oil you run.

My Older RVR had 190,000km on it and I ran a 10-40w which was ok, but it preferred the 10-50. My new RVR runs a 5-50w and seems to like it more than the 10-40w.



My Combo is this
Penrite 5-50w Full Synthetic
I also add a bottle of Liquid Moly Stop Tappet to reduce the lifter tick.

every 5000km is the best combination for these provided you change oil filter and do your air filter too.



That said, if you do want to get more power, the guys here can help tell you what you need to modify in your Auto gearbox to strengthen it and make it more powerful

Have fun!

 

[umpc1611]

Looking pretty good there. Nice choice of car

For Oil, I run A 5-50w in winter and shift to a 10-50 in summer (usually as we get quite hot over here) but I do know many of the guys run a 10-40w and some as high as a 20-60w Full Synthetic

Personally I've found that depending on how many kilometres / miles it has done depends on which oil you run.

My Older RVR had 190,000km on it and I ran a 10-40w which was ok, but it preferred the 10-50. My new RVR runs a 5-50w and seems to like it more than the 10-40w.



My Combo is this
Penrite 5-50w Full Synthetic
I also add a bottle of Liquid Moly Stop Tappet to reduce the lifter tick.

every 5000km is the best combination for these provided you change oil filter and do your air filter too.



That said, if you do want to get more power, the guys here can help tell you what you need to modify in your Auto gearbox to strengthen it and make it more powerful

Have fun!

Hey, took your advice to the extent that I could (as noted on the other thread): 4L of Liquid Moly 10W-40 Full Synthetic (good looking stuff! - and, it was all I could really get here immediately that seemed to fill the bill) - I wanted to go 10W-50, as you recommended, but I would have had to go to another city, and the change was really due after the trip. By the way, my HSG R has about 170770 kms. at this point, so I am now on an every-5K schedule. Also managed to get the Stop Tappet (the fact that they had it here in stock was a minor miracle in and of itself), as well as the air and oil filters (as noted extensively on other thread).

Haven't had the chance to drive around much, so my only impression was the brief shake-down run to make sure everything was tight. Seems "peppier" (probably due in large to the air filter - the old one was pretty dirty), but "feels" uh, "thinner" (?) I will report more thoroughly next week on your "What oil" thread if there's really any notable difference.

And re the exhaust mentioned above, I measured it while I was measuring the filter, base, etc., and it is actually 2" turbo-back, until just before the pipe goes over the back axle (at least that's still right), where it bolts into the tube that connects directly to the muffler/silencer, where it's about 2.5" (a bit less actually), and then the muffler/silencer canister itself is one of those big bazooka-type jobs you'd normally see on 3" exhaust (I will probably have to have something much tamer on hand to install to pass yearly inspections (very tough on the noise; 89db, I think, and as quiet as this one is, I don't think it'll make it), but the canister looks like it's a really high quality Japanese deal, so I'll keep that). This will all come up for review when it's time to start the power increase (a while yet, as I am really interested in doing the suspension first, and don't have the $$$ right now).

 

[MattL]

Hey, took your advice to the extent that I could (as noted on the other thread): 4L of Liquid Moly 10W-40 Full Synthetic (good looking stuff! - and, it was all I could really get here immediately that seemed to fill the bill) - I wanted to go 10W-50, as you recommended, but I would have had to go to another city, and the change was really due after the trip. By the way, my HSG R has about 170770 kms. at this point, so I am now on an every-5K schedule. Also managed to get the Stop Tappet (the fact that they had it here in stock was a minor miracle in and of itself), as well as the air and oil filters (as noted extensively on other thread).

Haven't had the chance to drive around much, so my only impression was the brief shake-down run to make sure everything was tight. Seems "peppier" (probably due in large to the air filter - the old one was pretty dirty), but "feels" uh, "thinner" (?) I will report more thoroughly next week on your "What oil" thread if there's really any notable difference.

And re the exhaust mentioned above, I measured it while I was measuring the filter, base, etc., and it is actually 2" turbo-back, until just before the pipe goes over the back axle (at least that's still right), where it bolts into the tube that connects directly to the muffler/silencer, where it's about 2.5" (a bit less actually), and then the muffler/silencer canister itself is one of those big bazooka-type jobs you'd normally see on 3" exhaust (I will probably have to have something much tamer on hand to install to pass yearly inspections (very tough on the noise; 89db, I think, and as quiet as this one is, I don't think it'll make it), but the canister looks like it's a really high quality Japanese deal, so I'll keep that). This will all come up for review when it's time to start the power increase (a while yet, as I am really interested in doing the suspension first, and don't have the $$$ right now).

That Liquid Moly oil is great stuff, just amazing stuff. You've made a good choice. It's what I would be running if I couldn't get the Synthetic I get.

As for your exhaust... A good 3" With a nice set of mufflers will keep it fairly tame and quiet so don't be too worried about noise if you can get a bigger system and run good mufflers... 3" of airflow is better than 2.5" of flow and a cannon.