Awd cruise off topic talk

4GTuner

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Ok, managed to get the lower ball joints out, I didn't know there was a circlip retainer. :oops:
Does anyone know somewhere local that I could get the tie rod ends and lower ball joints with those fancy polyurethane boots?
*Looks at Craig*...........:p :D
 
Good point mate!
BTW, what gasket sealant should I be using on the water pump gasket?
I have some Loctie #3 non hardening sealant at home, will that do the trick?
I DO NOT want it to leak!
 
That's the stuff, also called Aviation Gasket. It's what I have used on my thermostats and waterpumps for years. It says it's servicable after 4 hours, I have always tried to leave it for 24 hours before putting coolant back in. It's what we used on Crossam's waterpump.
 
I was going to use copper silicone for my water pump seeing that I have stacks of it......is that no good for it Rob?
Oh, btw, got the new ball joints in, crappy job to do hey.
I found it impossible to get them in the normal way, I even got Marek's help with his gas torch to heat the control arm up, and I froze the ball joints overnight, still didn't work the way I'd expected, or the way I read on VFAQ. So I took the control arms out and bashed them in that way. Alot easier when you have room to strike. Downside is, I think I bent my control arm in putting the new ones in, thats how much force it took!!
I was going to get polyurethane bushes to put in, but it already had them which is a bonus. :D
I should get my new wheel bearings tomorrow, so after I get someone to do that for me, it's pretty much just the gearbox that is left.
Oh btw, is $470 USD (delivered) a good deal for synchro/bearing set for the VR4 gearbox? I think I will go with them, because I can't find anyone else who has them! You almost have to search the blackmarket to find them!
Btw, thanks for your help Marek. :D
 
Did you ask Meek if he had the synchros and bearings? He lists them on his site.

Re the Copper gasket go, I have never used it so can't/ won't say that it will or wont work. You should do some more investigating, see if the manufacturer says its ok for constant immersion and doesn't have problems with glycol or heat.

Or just go buy some Aviation Gasket and be done with it. My bottle is probably about 15 years old and even survived a golden retriever chewing on it, and it doesn't go off and set like silicone does.
 
Thanks guys! :)

Ok, I think I've got everything I need now.
I'm pretty happy with the fact I got my bearings for $60 a set, when everyone was quoting $120!
Just gotta wait for my synchro/bearing kit, and my lsd to arrive! :D
Oh Rob, yeah I rang Meek but they said they'd have a 3 week lead time, and they weren't as cheap as this other place that Marek found for me in the states.
I can't wait! It's starting to go back together now, I'm so excited! :D

Thanks heaps for your help guys, esp. Marek and Craig for helping me with the parts.

Re: the aviation gasket. Isn't that stuff hard to get off? Thats what I thought, and it's the only reason why I use the silicone instead.
 
the only reason you would need to get it off is if it leaks, or if you are changing the water pump, which if you use a aviation sealant and a new waterpump first time you wont need to,

the ball is rolling for your lsd...just waiting to get a final price from them and a shipping price.
 
Aviation gasket is easy to get off as it doesn't harden, you just wipe it off with a rag and then some petrol or brake clean to finish it off. Better than scraping silicone anyday.
 
rob323 said:
Aviation gasket is easy to get off as it doesn't harden, you just wipe it off with a rag and then some petrol or brake clean to finish it off. Better than scraping silicone anyday.

Oh, really, sweet. :D
You know all the tricks Rob. I know what you mean about scraping silicone off!
I'm gonna get some av gasket.
 
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