boosting problem

4GTuner

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Stop playing with it so you can figure out whats wrong with your car!!


My guess is that you're turning up the boost too much, and with the freezing cold inlet temps, you're hitting boost cut alot easier, but when the air temps warm up abit, you can dial in more boost before it cuts out.

Used to happen to me when I took my car to the snow back in N.Z
 
explain boost cut to me, and remember, all this happened at once. it was running up to 1.2 bar fine, just after the car wash, i was getting all this greif. and where do i get a data logger for this car?
 
lancerevo92 said:
explain boost cut to me, and remember, all this happened at once. it was running up to 1.2 bar fine, just after the car wash, i was getting all this greif. and where do i get a data logger for this car?
Click to expand...


ebay is your friend.


boost cut is activated when you reach a certain amount of airflow through your Air Flow Meter. The engine shuts down temporarily and gives you one hell of a jolt, when you reach the ECU's pre-calculated level of airlfow, to stop you from breaking your car.

When the air is colder, its more dence, therefore it will take less PSI to activate boost cut, then what it would when the air is warmer.

One thing that I have learned over the years, is that cars have a tendancy to do fuck up in places that you weren't even working on, after you did some work to it.

A datalogger is a good tool to see if everything is working properly, and to check and clear stored fault codes etc. you can pick them up fairly cheap on ebay, just search for DSM logger
 
Yes you could have a leak- there could be ALOT of possibilities why your car isn't running properly- its kinda hard to diagnose it given your description, check all your hose clamps and flanges are on tight and also check for split hoses




dre
 
i was experiencing similar problems,
turned out to be my fuel pump....
as dre said it could be one of many many things so prob best to get a professional to check it out...
 
lancerevo92 said:
where is the fuel pump, outside the tank or inside?
Click to expand...

The pump is in the tank. you get to it by getting under the rear seat and the removing the black plate.

you will then see the top of the tank
 
a guy at partsource told me it could be my selinoid switch for the boost controller, he suggested to find out if there is a boost leak, use throttle body cleaner, run the motor, spray the intercooler piping, if there was a leak, the engine would rev. I did that, nothing happened, so no leak. I'm gonna get under my car in a few minutes and look for this selinoid, he said to follow the tube that is coming from the turbo's wastegate, and it will lead to it. As for my differential problem, he said the maker of these diffs, have their own specific oils to run properly, and also said my clutch pack my be going in the diff. Does anyone know if the my evo (92 evo 1) has a viscous coupling?
 
your car has a centre viscous coupling

the boost solenoid is located on the rh skirt (gearbox side)
its a little black thing with small hose and a couple of wires

...that is if it is still a standard one and not aftermarket
 
i found the selinoid, it's an hks. it looks fine, is thier a way to clean or maintain these parts? this is the only thing that makes any sense. i pulled the blow off valve (hks as well), the rubber inside had very small wear on it. Could this be my problem?, refer to http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Stages/details/BlowOffValve.htm
this is the blowoff valve
4133-5bov.jpg
 
Try finding something to block the hoses with and remove the b.o.v altogether and see if you still have the problem.

Like I said, there are MANY different places that could be causing your symptoms, so perhaps you should take it into someone who knows turbocharged cars
 
wouldn't that cause the boost to surge the system?i mean the hole principle of the blowoff valve is to release pressure from to the turbo to the maniflod, by bleeding it off, if you block this could'nt you damage the car? My wastegate had a rod connected to it, so i assume it's internal. can i lubricate the part the rod is pushing on? it seems to be exposed to the elements. It seems the with the to hole 'taking longer to build boost, and spiking occasionally' would be a wastegate problem? and noone i know know's turbochargers better than me right now, thankx to your guys wealth of knowledge pass on to me.
 
lancerevo92 said:
wouldn't that cause the boost to surge the system?i mean the hole principle of the blowoff valve is to release pressure from to the turbo to the maniflod, by bleeding it off, if you block this could'nt you damage the car? My wastegate had a rod connected to it, so i assume it's internal. can i lubricate the part the rod is pushing on? it seems to be exposed to the elements. It seems the with the to hole 'taking longer to build boost, and spiking occasionally' would be a wastegate problem? and noone i know know's turbochargers better than me right now, thankx to your guys wealth of knowledge pass on to me.
Click to expand...


I still think you have a boost leak. Either that, or you have played around with the settings on your boost controller (which you shouldnt do as you can blow your car up) and its turned it to shit.


Get a professional to look at it, because we're going to be here until next year trying to get you to fix your problem!

Better yet- find someone close to you know who knows your car-

http://ca.dsm.org/
 
all i can change on the controller is boost settings in bar, increments on .05, starting from .5 to 2.0 bar i haven't gone past 1.2 bar, i'll make a vid tomorrow of what my boost controller is doing when i boost, might be more helpful.
 
lancerevo92 said:
do you think that because i unhooked the battery the controller has to relearn the car's fuel maping?
Click to expand...


Only if it has an SAF-C or piggyback controller


perhaps you should let us know your cars modifcations??
 

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