braking problem

[matress]

hey guys...

since i've got my car back with the extra power i've been having some serious problems getting it to stop!

a few times i've hit up to around 150kph and had to slow down, so i've put my foot hard on the break and very little/nothing happens!

it's never felt like this before!

the brakes tested at 86% on the roadworthy 2 weeks ago.

they're a-spec twin pots aswell.

any ideas what could be the problem, or a solution?

cheers!

mat

 

[tharaka]

shitty pads fading..?

 

[matress]

it doesnt happen after i give them a hard time... first time i go to stop and that happens...

 

[BennyGee]

what type of pads do you have, are they designed to work when they are hot and don't work so well when cold?

Ben

 

[matress]

they're just the standard replacement pads as far as i know

 

[bazeng]

bleed your brakes, get some good dot 4 or 5.1
get some decent pads also dude..

i've had greens fade on me with the stock setup stopping from 150kph braking hard... scarey shit not being able to stop

 

[rob323]

IS the pedal still firm or does the pedal go all the way to the foor?

If it goes all the way to the floor, it is usually either a master cylinder problem (fluid bypassing the cup seals) or air in the lines.

If the pedal stays firm, then it is usually either brake fade (do it a couple of times and you will be able to smell it) or pad knock off. If you brake hard and it does the same thing and then you quickly release and stomp on them again and this fixes it, then its pad knock off - check your wheel nuts, wheel bearings and calliper mounting bolts on the fronts as the disc is wobbling around.

Obviously, the first step is to flush the brake fluid, especially if that hasn't been done in the past 12 months or so anyway.

Oh, check your brake fluid levels and check for any fluid leaks on the inside and outside of the firewall around the master cylinder.

Let us know how you go.

 

[matress]

the pedal it's really really firm, but its no spongier than normal.

wheel bearings are all good, just had one bad one replaced.

i'll have a look at brake fluid and stuff on the weekend...

and yes... coming from ~150kph and trying to slow down in a hury and not being able to is scarey shit! i thought i was going to hit a car way in front of me :?

 

[EVO-00X]

you're probably braking too late

 

[bazeng]

your abs could be playing up..

did it do anything funny?

 

[WRCVR4]

I know when doing track work, i had no brakes after a quick slow down from 180k into a courner (i brake VERY late) But i do have JSpec brakes :cry:

 

[rob323]

I know when doing track work, i had no brakes after a quick slow down from 180k into a courner (i brake VERY late) But i do have JSpec brakes :cry:

That's why I gave up on the singles and went to the twin spots and have never looked back

 

[Entaran]

Check the abs sensors. they need to be PERFECTLY aligned or they'll terminally release the caliper because it constantly thinks you're losing traction. This happened just after I had twinpots fitted and it was a pretty simple fix at any competent mechanic.

Other than that, as rob said, check all the bolts and fittings, sounds like your disc is wobbling.

Could also have a very serious case of pad glaze, so replace them too. I ran Ferodo DS2000's on the front which ate the shit out of the rotors, but was otherwise good. Also had RDA slotted on all four.

 

[kayarubin]

my brake pedal is pretty spongy with the nimbus master cylinder pumping the twin pots and drums at the back....i hve bled them properly but it seems to be something to do with either the rear rake drums or the master cylinder simply being too small or leaking a bit....i have the VR4 master cylinder but that doesnt bolt straight up to the lines coz it has one on top and one on the side....where as the nimbus one has both on the side :x

i might get some magna rear discs later on but i want to use the vr4 master cyl asap!....has anyone done this swap before?? how much would it usually cost to get a new pipe from the master to the fluid distribution block??

cheers guys and sorry for hijacking ur thread mattress

kaya

 

[Pyro]

Check the abs sensors. they need to be PERFECTLY aligned or they'll terminally release the caliper because it constantly thinks you're losing traction. This happened just after I had twinpots fitted and it was a pretty simple fix at any competent mechanic.

Would these symptoms include shuddering breaks, or would that be warped discs? my breaks seem to fade a bit when driving hard as well.

And when driving long down hill runs, going about 100 the shudder shakes the teeth out of me!! But driving around under 80 they don't seem to be as bad?!

What do you guys reckon?

P.S. sorry for the hi-jack!

 

[matress]

seems as though my brake rotors are pretty badly warped. i'll change them and put some new pads in and see if that fixes the other braking problems i've been experiencing.

 

[3zercrowd]

seems as though my brake rotors are pretty badly warped. i'll change them and put some new pads in and see if that fixes the other braking problems i've been experiencing.

How bad are they?

How close to minimum spec are they?

Galant VR4 disc MIN specs are: 22.4 FRONT 8.4 Rear.

Original: 24MM Front 10MM Rear.

I got mine done today.

Did em myself at a workshop we get placed at :wink:

Took 1/2 a 1 thou off each one.

Is good now.

Check this out:

http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/HTML/AUST2006_PDF/MITSUBISHI_AUST_06.pdf

 

[matress]

i haven't measured them, but when braking from high speeds, it shakes the whole car violently