Brian Crower 272 cam degreeing

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gizza power

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Feb 13, 2007
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hi i have a gsr with a vr4 engine in it
bought some bc 272 cams for it and trying do get them degreed in, i have done a fair bit of research on degreeing cams in and think i have a fair understanding but am having dramas understanding the bc cam card provided and how im supposed to use the drgrees vs .050 lift.i have dial gauge and degree wheel adjustable cam gears e.t.c found true TDC, my readings seem wrong againts the cam card and adjusting the cam gears doesnt bring it near so i must be reading or doing something wrong , my undestanding was to check the cam lift at .050 againts the degree wheel on opening and closing ramps of cam? if any one has degreed these in before and could give me some advice on how to would be much appreciated

here are all the specs ill try get a pic
duration @.050 int 212 ex 212
valve lift int .401 ex .381

intake opens 4 degrees BTDC
intake closes 28 degrees ABDC
exhaust opens 36 degrees BBDC
exhaust closes - 4degress BTDC (shouldnt this say ATDC?)
 
first question for you is.....have taken out the hydraulic lash adjuster[lifter] and tried it with a solid lifter?

I have installed a couple of sets of these cams and checked piston to valve clearance etc using a home made solid lifter. They are are a pretty mild cam as 272s go and dont have as much lift as some others so the clearance was always good.

as wrong as it may sound ...I am now confident enough to chuck them in and set up the car with the arse dyno for good driveablilty and early spool.

good spool and low end/ mid range punch......advance inlet

early spool more top end......retard exhaust


less lope at idle..........open up the lobe centres
 
no i dont have solid lifters in it i started the car and let the hyd lifters bleed up to get the zero valve lash, yeah i might have wrote that funny but i am checking it at .050 valve lift.
BMGTZ do you mean just get them close and dial them in on the dyno or did you degree them in a bit? do you reckon will be safe?

cheers buddy
 
no i dont have solid lifters in it i started the car and let the hyd lifters bleed up to get the zero valve lash, yeah i might have wrote that funny but i am checking it at .050 valve lift.
BMGTZ do you mean just get them close and dial them in on the dyno or did you degree them in a bit? do you reckon will be safe?

cheers buddy

ok a couple of things......
without a solid lifter your going to struggle to get any real sense out of it. its really easy to make one if you can be stuffed to do it ..here is a link to how but you need some old lifters http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/4g63-camshaft-degreeing.html

one of these is also very handy for not only its intended purpose of removing valve spring but with a slight mod you can use it to check piston to valve clearance ......once you see it you will work out how i would do that.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/tools/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor.html

It is pretty important that you know the clearance any way......so you need to find a way to check it

as for safe ...well no iron clad guarantees here but yep they should be fine. one thing to remember though is if your still using the standard valve springs whilst that is OK from a coil bind perspective. it will valve bounce earlier than before so be careful that you don't just go blasting out to 8500 thinking all is as before.
 
first question for you is.....have taken out the hydraulic lash adjuster[lifter] and tried it with a solid lifter?

I have installed a couple of sets of these cams and checked piston to valve clearance etc using a home made solid lifter. They are are a pretty mild cam as 272s go and dont have as much lift as some others so the clearance was always good.

as wrong as it may sound ...I am now confident enough to chuck them in and set up the car with the arse dyno for good driveablilty and early spool.

good spool and low end/ mid range punch......advance inlet

early spool more top end......retard exhaust


less lope at idle..........open up the lobe centres

I think you have posted up the settings you are using on yours before, but they might be useful for others setting theirs up. I have been running mine at stock timings for a year or two now even though I have adjustable cam gears.
 
ah o.k ill go get me an old lifter from the wreckers and set it up, does the valve fall in when spring removed for valve to piston clearance check?
i lifted this off someone elses thread this is my cam card BC272%20Cam%20Card1.jpg
 
The valve will drop but as I understand it, as you're setting your timing with n.o 1 piston on top dead centre, on top of the piston - so you won't lose it in the cylinder if that's your concern. Happy to stand corrected on this though.

Cheers Dean
 
ah o.k ill go get me an old lifter from the wreckers and set it up, does the valve fall in when spring removed for valve to piston clearance check?
i lifted this off someone elses thread this is my cam card View attachment 5899


if you can find a way to compress the valve with the spring attached it will be a whole lot easier.......modify a valve spring compressor so that it sits on the valve head not the spring retainer
 

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