car getting slower

[mattrat]

Hey guys, another problem Dot Dot
well firstly i have to say i have to worst luck in the world, i double check my oil cooler connections when i put it on and made sure the 90 degree elbows were very tight onto the oil cooler adapter, now somehow it made its way loose and i lost all my oil, luckily engine wasnt harmed as i noticed it only a few hundred metres from home but it pissed out massively..
secondly the 450's i bought i suppose thought they wouldnt seal and just pissed out petrol out all 4 injectors, when removed the new o-rings i put on seem to have eaten themselves and couldn't seal a fridge..
thirdly i had been losing water which i could NOT find out why until one day i accidently lent on the top rad hose(which was fucking new btw) and had like 3 pin sized holes which when the water was under pressure would squirt out everywhere, which gave me a v,dirty engine bay and it was killing me as i couldnt find anything.
fourthley now everything is sealed, it doesnt leak a thing, it seems to eb slower then when i had all these shit cunt problems.
like when i had the 510's and dodgy oxy sensor in it was quicker...
scenario: ok so im just riding the clutch to start moving and its at about 1.5 -2k rpm and i flatten my foot, it seems like it floods and just makes no power until about over 5,5.5k then it fucking burns my tyres. if i slowly accelerate up to say 4 and flatten it it goes like it should, all gears are the same but if i WOT from lov revs it will just make no power at all, like today i did it and it like just stayed at 3 k revs for a second then went up..
im hoping i make sense cause its shitting me off.
i took my CAS off when i was rebuilding it to put a new o-ring on it and i feel i might have got the timing off, does this sound a possible cause?
also i think its pinging a bit yet its only on stock boost and bp 98 is always used.
i cannot datalog it for unknown reasons, if someone has a spare datalogger cable with the plug on it they would be kind enough to lend me, ill pay postage to and from as my one from the states a 2 year old could make..
oh and its also very tempremental, like sometimes WOT is like it should be and other just shit.
in a nutshell, my car feels like an untuned carby.
any help please..
Matt

 

[iluszn]

no boost leaks?
Blocked air filter?
Collapsed Cat?

Checked your plugs?
Check your intake for leaks.
Have you set your base timing?

 

[mattrat]

no boost leaks? no, nothing, also idles fine
Blocked air filter? k&n out of air box, looks clean
Collapsed Cat? high flow done few thou kays ago, wouldnt think so, still build boost easy as pie

Checked your plugs? new bpr7es, got with my magnacore leads
Check your intake for leaks. could be a possiblity
Have you set your base timing? one thing ive never got my head around, so no, nothing touched in timing ways

 

[iluszn]

Check for leaks in intake after AFM (I am assuming you are running one)

See if you can set your base timing and go from there.

Also if your running a BOV.. make sure this isnt leaking on boost. Check all your cooler hoses/clamps.. might idle fine but on boost it may be leaking.. My top cooler pipe kept coming loose off the turbo.. idle fine. then ran strange felt like no power but had boost.

 

[EVO-00X]

You sure its not just you getting heavier? :lol:

Yep, you've put your timing out of whack when you moved the crank angle sensor so get that sorted (properly by earthing out the diagnostic wire on the firewall and setting it to 5 deg). Also check your spark plug gap. The good old no power to 3000rpm then suddenly power is a common 02 senor symptom. Had the same thing happen in the mrs car, no power under 3000rpm and then as soon as it hits 3000rpm and temps the thing blasted off. Actually it was a combo of that and the CAS but in the end its working fine now.

 

[iluszn]

LMAO.. hrmm sorry i cant help with power to weight.. maybe get someone else to drive it?

 

[mattrat]

so your caling me a fat soggy are ya, ahahah
im not fat dw (but i am eating an aero right now tho )
ok so i earth that plug, but how do i set timing to 5 degrees? theres no little computer where i enter 5 degre btc and whalla it does it, lol.. what do i do? does it mean more money?
and the oxy sensor, i have a bosch one which plugged straight into the loom, it didnt need no trimming..
i was getting a check engine light when i had my old faulty sensor in and it ran way harder with that one, now no check engine light but no power.
Cheers Matt

 

[EVO-00X]

Timing light gun mate. Earth out the diag plug, hook up the timing gun (on spark plug lead 1 and earth on strut tower), turn engine on and look at where the light blinks on the crankshaft pulley notch. The notch should be at 5 degrees which is exactly in the middle of the T and the 10 on the black plastic timing belt cover. Loosen up the Crank Angle Sensor and adjust it slowly either way until you get the notch blinking in the middle of the T and the 10. Then tighten the CAS back up, turn engine off and unplug the diag from earth, and go for a drive. If you dont have access to a timing light gun go to the local mechanic and it shouldnt take more than 5 minutes of his time to adjust the timing for you provided you tell him what I wrote above. Just one thing, does the VR4 have the same brown diag plug on the firewall like the GSR/EVO do?

 

[blackvr]

I have a datalogging cable I use with Evoscan software for my Aspec VR4.You are welcome to use it at my place on the weekend. PM me... I live in St Marys.

Mike

 

[mattrat]

im going to check the timing today and pressure test my intake.
ill let ya no blackvr, thanks

 

[brisvr4]

Just make sure that the datalogger is NOT plugged in when you do the timing Matt.

 

[mattrat]

hurm bov was leaking, so ive made a blockoff plate, before anyone says i know its bad for the turbo but i dont really care cause when it shits itself that gives me a real reason to upgrade.
but still the flat spot is there, borrowing a timing light tomorrow and will check that then..
other then that i cant think of anythin..

 

[GVR40]

well firstly i have to say i have to worst luck in the world
Matt

will have to dissagree with you on the one, i'm about to go to my 5th set of valves in 3 years and my 3rd set in 520kms!!!, plus about the 5th timing belt. i think my luck is slightly worse, but good luck getting it sorted out.

 

[CLuTZ]

I would have thought the timing was the first thing you checked after you got the car running :?

 

[GVR40]

me or matt...

i did check the timing.

this is why mine died

 

[Jonson]

I would have checked the timing before i drove it out the driveway for the first time, well actually I did. Timing is EVERYTHING for an engine.

I don't understand how you have gone through 3 sets of valves and 5 belts...on 'paper' it looks like whatever your doing is very wrong.

 

[iluszn]

I ran without a BOV for years, so did a friends of mine. No issues.. Its not as harmfull as people make out.

How did the car feel with the BOV blocked off? any better?
Checked all your cooler pipes just incase?

 

[mattrat]

im not talking about cam timing dre, im talking about ignition timing..
car ran alot smoother, idled even steadier, so i did have a leaking bov, ill recheck all hose clamps and make sure, cause it does feel like its boosting but all the air is esacping somewhere under boost, and it only open at higher psi, cause its faster on 1/2 throttle like at 2 psi but not at 7-8..

 

[GVR40]

I would have checked the timing before i drove it out the driveway for the first time, well actually I did. Timing is EVERYTHING for an engine.

I don't understand how you have gone through 3 sets of valves and 5 belts...on 'paper' it looks like whatever your doing is very wrong.

its a good thing the car aint driven on paper then...i triple checked the timing. the car is cursed, ask any of the brisbane guys. the nut worked its way of the oil pump gear and then the oil pump gear worked it's way off the shaft. if you want to know about the other 2 sets of valves check out my rides thread.

back on topic

 

[mattrat]

ohk so yeh, back on topic..
i got my hands on a timing light, earthed the plug set to 5 yadda yada.
now when i take the diag plug off, it hesitates from like 7-10 degrees and if i rev it like just to no more then 2.5k it will go off the chart, and i mean twice the distance of the 0-15 degrees tab thingo and even more, is this normal? i was like wtf is this supposed to happen? so at 2.5k timing is at 30 degrees + btdc, didnt wanna rev it any more.
input pleaseee