Changing turbine without balance?

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LumpyVR4

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Sep 20, 2013
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I'm thinking about changing to a 9 blade turbine in my td-05 20g to help with the top of the envelope. Seeing as the turbines come balanced and the compressor is too, can I get away without getting the whole assembly balanced? Some say yes, others just seem to go straight to you must get it balanced no matter what. Thoughts?
 
Should you do tyre balance when you fit new one?
You may be lucky but if it's out a bit, longer term it will fail.
 
Woe woe woe all of you... he stated her WANTS to try a 9 Blade, Best bet is to assenble it & run it for 1000 Km's & see what you think... If you like it then remove & Balance... if not....?
 
Here's what Mark from GTpumps had to say

"you have to balance the whole assembly. You need to check the bearing clearances and the condition of the bore and blast everything clean. We also VSR high speed balance the cartridge once assembled. Our normal rebuild cost is $660.00 which includes the rebuild kit, if you supplied the 9 blade we could fit that."

Given that, I'm going to wait until I have the turbo off while the engine is getting rebuilt (once I finish collecting parts).

I've been toying with getting an FP green also, but I'm not a fan having a high boost threshold on the street, hence the thought of sticking with the 20g, and getting the 9 blade to give the turbine side a little more flow. But then again the engine is going to be 8.5:1 and 94mm with a ported head and big valves etc, and I want a turbo for 30 psi on E85 that doesn't drop off too much up top. Decisions, decisions.
 
Derek said:
Woe woe woe all of you... he stated her WANTS to try a 9 Blade, Best bet is to assenble it & run it for 1000 Km's & see what you think... If you like it then remove & Balance... if not....?
If the turbo fails due to not being balanced, then that 1000kms will be its last. You don't really get a second chance with that experiment.


LumpyVR4 said:
Here's what Mark from GTpumps had to say

"you have to balance the whole assembly. You need to check the bearing clearances and the condition of the bore and blast everything clean. We also VSR high speed balance the cartridge once assembled. Our normal rebuild cost is $660.00 which includes the rebuild kit, if you supplied the 9 blade we could fit that."

Given that, I'm going to wait until I have the turbo off while the engine is getting rebuilt (once I finish collecting parts).

I've been toying with getting an FP green also, but I'm not a fan having a high boost threshold on the street, hence the thought of sticking with the 20g, and getting the 9 blade to give the turbine side a little more flow. But then again the engine is going to be 8.5:1 and 94mm with a ported head and big valves etc, and I want a turbo for 30 psi on E85 that doesn't drop off too much up top. Decisions, decisions.
If you're running low compression, big valves and large ports then I would think you want a turbo that comes on song as quickly as possible rather than worrying about boost dropping off at high rpm.
 
VIN18M said:
If the turbo fails due to not being balanced, then that 1000kms will be its last. You don't really get a second chance with that experiment.



If you're running low compression, big valves and large ports then I would think you want a turbo that comes on song as quickly as possible rather than worrying about boost dropping off at high rpm.
Also should have mentioned I'm fitting an EVO head to get high port velocity and help the bottom end. But you are right, as much as I'd like the top end to be awesome, on the street it's the bottom I need to really worry about. I guess I could also run higher compression. I haven't bought the pistons yet. I was thinking 8.5 to allow for a few tuning screw ups by yours truly.
 
If you're running e85, I'd go as high compression as you can get away with to get maximum response out of the setup. The beauty of e85 is you're less likely to run into detonation issues when tuning, so it's a lot safer.
 
I keep not giving all the required info. I plan to also have a tune for 98, for those times E85 isn't available. So really compression should be determined by boost somewhere in the low-mid 20s on 98.
 
The tuning capabilities of current Haltechs and the like mean most tuners can still work with boosted high comp 98 tunes. I'd do some research into the ECU and chat to a tuner before you go choosing pistons and setting your comp.

It's not like the old days when you had to drop your compression to 7:1 to run anything over 20psi.
 
I have been reading up on how to do flex fuel in ECMLink. The pistons are one of the last things I'm going to buy in case I find I need to go bigger than 85.5mm after tear down. So I have time to do extensive research before settling on a comp ratio. Basically I have a choice of 10 or 8.5 (although after machining it could be a little more that I can tweak with gasket thickness).
 
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