e3 td05 16g manifold & o2 housing on CD9A

[fr0st]

I'm assuming this is just a direct bolt on, since most parts on the evo 1-3 are interchangeable.

I have one question about the oil lines, should I be draining the lines before removing the turbo?

Any tips for a novice doing his first turbo install? Please don't flame, I want to learn and I learn by doing not having someone else do it.

I have the service manuals and I've been studying the diagrams religiously, also would I be able to rent an angle gauge from places like PartSource (for those who are CND)?

 

[ENGINR]

The E3 turbo will be a direct bolt on.

* I would drain and remove your radiator to give you a bit more room to work with. It also allows you to access your turbo from the front of your car through your radiator support instead of from over your engine bay. Also eliminates the possibility of putting a spanner or something through your radiator.
* Undo your heatshield and oxygen sensor (use a 21 or 22mm open ender or crow's foot for this so you don't round the fitting off)
* Undo your water lines at the engine and let any excess water/coolant drain out. I'd remove the banjo bolt fittings from the turbo when you have the turbo out of the car.
* Unbolt and remove your oil return line (it gets in the way when you try and drop your turbo from the manifold). Ensure you don't have oil spill out of your sump!
* Unbolt your oil feed line from the engine (I have a braided line so I just let it hang, I can't remember how the hard line routes to the head). Oil will just drip out then stop when there's none left in the lines.
*Undo your exhaust from your dump pipe and keep it clear so you can manipulate your turbo easily when you remove it from the manifold.
*Undo your manifold bolts in a star pattern (like your wheel nuts)

Rest is easy-peesy. Just remember to put a bit of oil in your new turbo before you fire it up or unplug your coil pack and crank it a few times to prime it so you don't ruin your new bearings.

 

[brisvr4]

If the turbo bolts are rusty make sure you drench them PB Blaster before you try to undo them.
You might actually find it easier to start the car and let it warm the turbo/manifold up then try to loosen the bolts. DO NOT spray anything with PB Blaster before you try it this way!

 

[lancerevo92]

I'm assuming this is just a direct bolt on, since most parts on the evo 1-3 are interchangeable.

I have one question about the oil lines, should I be draining the lines before removing the turbo?

Any tips for a novice doing his first turbo install? Please don't flame, I want to learn and I learn by doing not having someone else do it.

I have the service manuals and I've been studying the diagrams religiously, also would I be able to rent an angle gauge from places like PartSource (for those who are CND)?

your turbo is'nt gone already is it?

 

[fr0st]

nope I just bought a new setup.

thanks for the suggestions guys, hopefully everything goes smoothly this weekend when I attempt this.

 

[ENGINR]

Goodluck with it - brisvr4's suggestion is a good one! Put a bit of that silver anti-seize paste on the studs incase you ever need to remove the turbo again. It'll make life much easier in the future.

 

[Liberoz]

nope I just bought a new setup.

thanks for the suggestions guys, hopefully everything goes smoothly this weekend when I attempt this.

The only tricky bit is
1:getting seized nuts off the studs
2:not damaging the oil drain pipe from turbo to the sump.
( watch out they are very fragile and do not like to be stressed out of shape in any way they are prone to cracking)

 

[brisvr4]

Goodluck with it - brisvr4's suggestion is a good one! Put a bit of that silver anti-seize paste on the studs incase you ever need to remove the turbo again. It'll make life much easier in the future.

Oops, I forgot that bit of advice. I would actually put Nickel anti seize on ANY bolt in the general vicinity of the turbo/dump

 

[ENGINR]

2:not damaging the oil drain pipe from turbo to the sump.
( watch out they are very fragile and do not like to be stressed out of shape in any way they are prone to cracking)

IMO I'd ditch the standard oil drain line and get one from www.gtpumps.com.au

The standard ones are shit and the money you'll pay for an aftermarket one will save you a heap of headaches later on.

 

[Liberoz]

IMO I'd ditch the standard oil drain line and get one from www.gtpumps.com.au

The standard ones are shit and the money you'll pay for an after market one will save you a heap of headaches later on.

weren't you pm me about a stock one hahahhaaa did you wake up Shane

 

[ENGINR]

Nope - I've got a GT Pumps one. I think people are confusing me with Rikki for some reason and it's really confusing me why they are because I'm not asian :?

 

[fr0st]

oh I already got a oil drain line with the new turbo but I think it might be a stock one aswell... If I was able to find an aftermarket host kit for a 2nd gen eclipse/talon would that work since I believe they are both the 7bolt 4g63's?

I have a steel braided hose for the turbo oil line as well.

Oops, I forgot that bit of advice. I would actually put Nickel anti seize on ANY bolt in the general vicinity of the turbo/dump

Would that include the bolts for the exhaust manifold as well?

 

[brisvr4]

You don't really need to but it can't hurt!

 

[doommachine]

Probably worth looking into some new turbo/dump pipe bolts too. I didn't replace them once.. ask Tim

Nice ones can be had quite cheaply from ebay. Can't remember sellers name but it was less than 50 bucks for all bolts + shipping from the US.

 

[fr0st]

I bought some DEI manifold/exhaust wrap yesterday after work when i picked up the manifold gasket and bolts for the new bov, so I'm gonna be wrapping it and whatnot tonight and hopefully either install it tonight or tomorrow. (depending on how long the silicon sealant for the exhaust wrap takes to dry)

As for the bolts, they were new when they were put on the last car (2nd gen eclipse) so I think I'll be reusing them since the setup has only seen under 20k after being installed new on previous vehicle.

 

[fr0st]

okay so when I try unbolting the oil return pipe from the sump, it starts spewing oil, as per ENGINR's advice I immediately stopped and bolted it back up.

How the hell am I supposed to do this without having he oil come out of the sump?

I think it would just be easier to drain all the oil and put new stuff in... but I just filled her up with 4.5 quarts of royal purple... I don't wanna do it again as this oil has till lots of life in it.

 

[Richard]

Drain most of your oil into a clean container and then pour it back into the motor once you are done... simple.