Engine Wont Start

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PulsarGuy

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Joined
Nov 27, 2008
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Hey guys just replaced the water pump on my E39A HH Galant Vr4, got everything put back together and the engine just refuses to start, cranks over till the cows come home but not starting, checked plugs, intake so far but ive got nothing! Any ideas would be greatly appriciated
Thanks Antony
 
My mate, hes an apprentice mechanic, no he hasn't done one on a 4G63 B4
Yer it has Spark, not sure on Fuel, its cranking over but yer..
Antony
 
did he double check the timing by hand turning the crank over and checking to see if the timing marks line up after a full rotation?

Jon
 
id do a comp test as well.. make sure you havent bent any valves, if you cant get a hold of a comp tester i have one you can borrow
 
mattrat said:
id do a comp test as well.. make sure you havent bent any valves, if you cant get a hold of a comp tester i have one you can borrow

if the motor didnt fire up and run then theres 0% chance he has done any internal damage.

Jon
 
there is a chance john if it is cranking then it is possible (only slightly) but still possible for internal damage
 
Yer ive been told if its out by more than 180 degrees u can bend stuff, but im pretty sure its not out by that much, cheers for the offer about the comp tester but my mates already bringin one round 2moz
cheers guys, will let u know wen its running again
 
GVR40 said:
there is a chance john if it is cranking then it is possible (only slightly) but still possible for internal damage

if the guy who did the timing belt has put it out about 10 teeth maybe... if he has done that.. he should never be allowed to touch a car again! lolz

Jon
 
i cranked my engine by hand mate with a half inch drive ratchet when i did a timing belt on the vr4 engine, as it was different to the 7 bolt ggsr engine in a way, im lucky as it got stuck as a piston was hitting a valve, and the piston actually had a small indentation in it, imagine if a hi torque starter was turning it, it would have smashed right through where my ratchet wouldnt and smashed a valve, so in saying there is 0 percent i think your wrong
 
I'm all for apprentices learning but rule of thumb. Put it on TDC before you take anything apart. Once the new belt is on, turn the crank by hand 2 full turns, ensure marks line up.
Goodluck mate, I doubt you did any damage, you would have heard bad noises if you did damage.
 
If you have never done one before you should have been refering to the workshop manual time and time again and double checking every step of the process in the timing belt replacement method http://4gtuner.com/site/showthread.php?t=4353 . Its there for a reason, easy to get your hands on and print out and will save you from heartache, engine failure, and lost time and money. After youve done a few engine builds/timing belt changes you would then only need to print out the torque settings pages. :)
 
mattrat said:
i cranked my engine by hand mate with a half inch drive ratchet when i did a timing belt on the vr4 engine, as it was different to the 7 bolt ggsr engine in a way, im lucky as it got stuck as a piston was hitting a valve, and the piston actually had a small indentation in it, imagine if a hi torque starter was turning it, it would have smashed right through where my ratchet wouldnt and smashed a valve, so in saying there is 0 percent i think your wrong

Well from my experience with these motors, if you followed instructions and you just got it a touch wrong, theres a bee's dick chance that you would do any damange.. but in saying that yes you can do damage if you dont know what your doing and you havent lined up all your markers.

I was basing my opinion on people who have had experience with these motors. my apologies.

Jon
 
hes saying 180 degrees out or something, wasnt having a go but being just a touch out in some cases can fcuk stuff up, lets hope it hasnt though
 
I still have no idea how someone could have gotten it 180 degrees out when all the markers are clearly identifiable?? If he got the crank or cams 180 degrees out it would have definitely caused a collision of valves and pistons. We're not talking about putting a distributor out 180 degrees here and the engine not sparking in the right sequence, we're talking about a crank and cams that make pistons and valves physically move up and down and theres not that much room for error. If you have come out of it unscathed without any contact then I dont think that it was out that much and you are extremely lucky :) As you said, you should always turn the crank with a ratchet after a belt change to make sure 100% there's no contact between valves and pistons.

For the record even being one tooth out makes a big difference in a balance shaft engine. I dont know how it happened, but once I ended up being one tooth out on a motor and it didnt make the valves kiss the pistons, it wasnt even noticable on startup and normal running, but when you got to a certain rpm (I think 5000rpm from memory?) it started making a loud humming sound and vibrated as the balance shaft was out. That engine needed the timing belt redone.
 

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