Evo 9 calipers + rotors for HSG RVR.

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Wae
Come around in a fortnight if you haven't got your fronts sorted out.

I show you what I up to and if you like I will make a set for you as well.
I have my adaptor plates roughed out. Bring the calipers so I can look at them too.
I using 4 spot wrx calipers. They are wider on the bolt holes than the Gsr, so I suspect they are the same as the bremboes. The adapter plates I see on here a flat plates, but I need to step the Adapter to keep the disc In the middle of the caliper. Also need to be careful the caliper and rim don't clash.
I using awd magna discs I think they are 300mm?
 
Out of curosity, has anyone done an upgrade on their brake master cylinder/booster on the RVR to be compaitable with the brembo callipers setup? Do I just swap over a bigger master cylinder or both the master cylinder and booster need to be change over?

Wae
 
they upgrade to a 1" master cylinder, i dont know what yours is. this will make the pedal slightly harder, and reduce the pedal travel required. if yours is smaller than 1" bore, you could look at magna mc as apparently some are 1" or you can get yours bored out.
a larger diameter booster will help reduce your extra pedal effort.
 
hey Jack,

I'm just a few steps closer getting the brakes working. Got the front adapters for the brembos, looks like it will bolt up this time. When you said bore out the cylinder as in ported with a grinding tool? or do I need to mill it out? I'm not sure can I get away with just changing it to a 1" master cylinder, and continue using the stock booster. Will the evo 4 - 6 master cylinder bolt up to the stock rvr booster, need some one to verify this.

Alternate I can go with the evo 7 - 9 brake master cylinder and booster. I did some searches I think the 7 - 9 resavior bottle has a tube sticking out from the bottle, how would I go blocking it?

http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/19676-evo-6-brake-master-cylinder-3000gt-gto-rear-rotors-found/page__hl__%2Bbrake+%2Bmaster+%2Bcylinder__fromsearch__1
 
Boring it to 1" is a specialist job, not with a die grinder.
Bore size is often cast not the side of the cylinder
I think most master cylinders are same size on bolt holes.
Check yours maybe already 1"
The reservoir pipe often goes to the clutch master cylinder. Change the reservoir for a auto one, or run the pipe into the clutch and get rid of the clutch reservoir, or block it off.
I think the evo masters will be pricey, I'd look into the magna ones and check their sizes
 
I'm not sure the 1" mc is adaquate for the brembos? Did some searches got diff answers.

The evo 1 - 3 and RVR has 1" mc I think. How about the evo 4-6 and 7-9 what bore size are the mc?

I had a look on my RVR mc, it got a stamp of R14, 1, and NABCO JAPAN 4. Does the 1 means bore size 1"? If its 1", I can just get away without upgrading the mc uh?
 
So then it follows that if the magna knuckles are the same as the RVR, that they are the same as the VR4 /evo1/2/3, which makes perfect sense. Interestingly I guess the RVR front knuckles are good for a VR4 5 stud conversion? How many teeth on the RVR ABS rotor?

So.. which model verada are these magical hubs with 160mm mounting holes?

Incidentally, you RVR fellows might be interested to know about the outlander "cheapass" brake upgrade. All you need is the caliper mounting bracket from a "big brakes" outlander (can be ordered from the US MR307282) and 294mm outlander rotors, most definitely available from DBA, I believe part number 417? But don't quote me. Then your stock calipers bolt to the bigger bracket, and you have bigger brakes for the cost of new rotors and some obscure part.

As a bonus you won't need to do a 5 stud swap first :D

Regarding master cylinders, yes, the RVR is 1" bore, its the same as evo1-3. The later model 3000gt (ie, 3g) master cylinder is 17/16" in bore, or you could do the classic DSM Q45 infiniti MC upgrade. Pretty sure the 3000gt unit fits more readily.
 
I think Jack is correct, he came over and had it compared with the magna knuckles. Its like buying the same knuckles as my RVR :fuuuuu: lesson learnt.

Anyway, good news for the RVRers and can donfidently go upgrade your brakes now.... my brembos are bolted on both rear and front. Perfect fitments as long you buy a pair calliper adapters. Ohhh and the abs, and tie rods are remaind the same, no need modification.

http://compct.com.au/car/brake1.JPG

Rear bolt on with brembos and evo rear rotors.

This what I did for the front;

-I cut out the dust shields with a dremel tool, I know they can be removed by taking the hub out but I dont have a hub remover tool.
-The front evo rotor need to be drilled with two 12mm holes in order for the rotor to flush agaisnt the 2 bolts on the hub.
http://compct.com.au/car/brake2.JPG

-Knuckle ears need to be grind off a bit for the calliper adapters to be sit flat on both ears. Once its sit flat and secured down with a bottom nut/bolt, you can use the adapter to do a straight tap on top knuckle ear without removing knuckles from the car. Need to be tap out with m14 tap if could recall the correct size.
http://compct.com.au/car/brake3.JPG

-Last thing you need to do mill out a small section on the front brembo callipers
http://compct.com.au/car/brake5.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake6.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake4.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake7.JPG

Wae
 
I have Magna Verada hubs & the steering arm joint for the tie rod end is about 10mm high & the tie rod end goes in bottom ^^ up.
Cheers !
 
RVR97 said:
I think Jack is correct, he came over and had it compared with the magna knuckles. Its like buying the same knuckles as my RVR :fuuuuu: lesson learnt.

Anyway, good news for the RVRers and can donfidently go upgrade your brakes now.... my brembos are bolted on both rear and front. Perfect fitments as long you buy a pair calliper adapters. Ohhh and the abs, and tie rods are remaind the same, no need modification.

http://compct.com.au/car/brake1.JPG

Rear bolt on with brembos and evo rear rotors.

This what I did for the front;

-I cut out the dust shields with a dremel tool, I know they can be removed by taking the hub out but I dont have a hub remover tool.
-The front evo rotor need to be drilled with two 12mm holes in order for the rotor to flush agaisnt the 2 bolts on the hub.
http://compct.com.au/car/brake2.JPG

-Knuckle ears need to be grind off a bit for the calliper adapters to be sit flat on both ears. Once its sit flat and secured down with a bottom nut/bolt, you can use the adapter to do a straight tap on top knuckle ear without removing knuckles from the car. Need to be tap out with m14 tap if could recall the correct size.
http://compct.com.au/car/brake3.JPG

-Last thing you need to do mill out a small section on the front brembo callipers
http://compct.com.au/car/brake5.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake6.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake4.JPG
http://compct.com.au/car/brake7.JPG

Wae
The Brembo conversion is the first item on my list of things to do to the RVR.

Unfortunately, the pictures in the above post are not working, and I can't help but think that they would be massively helpful! Does anybody know if these (or similar) pics are anywhere else to be found?


In respect of the bracket, I believe that Racefab in NZ sell a pair for NZ$200 - well, that's what I've found on their website listed as the Evo 1-3 Front Brembo bracket. Is that the correct pair of brackets?


But as far as I can tell, without going down the hubs route (which is next to impossible in the UK), all I need for this conversion is the Brembo calipers/pads and discs/rotors, the converter brackets for the front, plus suitable brake lines. Then it's just a case of the little machining jobs.

Have I missed something?!
 
It sounds like that mate.
You're right those pics would be a massive help.
I'm hoping to do this conversion on my Galant VR4.
I'm speaking with racefab about making adaptors for the rear but after reading this thread, I'm wondering if it'd be easier (or even if it's possible?) to swap RVR rear trailing arms and hubs into the Galant.
You RVR guys certainly have it a lot easier with the rear. The fronts should be rather simple once you have the adaptors.
 
I have a Legnum VR-4 as well, although mine is the more common pre facelift version (1996-98) as opposed to the facelift (1998-2002). The PFL has the same bolt spacing as the RVR, etc. However, facelifts have the 160mm spacing, so Brembos go straight on them. To get them onto the PFL cars, the only route has been to swap facelift hub carriers in. The Racefab brackets here may however be an easier route for VR-4 owners to upgrade to Brembos, so my investigations here may have an unanticipated additional benefit, which is encouraging on that side of things! :)
 
Sorry mate, I meant E39A GVR4 not EC5A.
I did have an EC5A GVR4 as well. Great car but I've got a weird love for the old ones. :mellow:

Let us know how you go with your brembo upgrade mate. I'll be watching this space :)
 
Haha, I knew you meant the E39A, I just meant the 'as well' in respect of having the Legnum as well as the RVR! :D Barely seen a mention of the 8G VR-4s on here. But I know plenty of 8G owners with lots of affection for the 6G! :wub:
 
Hey guys, I have a bloke that comes into work who specialises in suspension and brakes on squirrely cars.
We had a look at the brakes on the rvr, he reckons we can pretty much use whatever rotors we want and make mounts to suit the callipers. Radial being the easiest to adapt.
I'm a few months away from getting mine done but he said the evo rotors would be the easiest to make work and just grab some nissan gtr callipers for something easy and off the shelf although may be expensive.
Having said that I will caveat it with the fact he has probably the meanest shed machine shop i've seen so I have no idea what machining may be done, but he was pretty confident it would be an easy fix.

The suspension as well is pretty sorted, I'll save that one for when we get it done ;)
 
Yep, one man's 'easy fix' is another man's total ball-ache! I like the Evo Brembos option as it keeps things Mitsi, plus there are several Mitsis that already have this conversion in one way or another, and it's good for replacement parts in the future then too. :)
 
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