Faulty slave symptoms

[veerfour]

What are the signs of a failing slave cylinder. My clutch works fine 9/10 times, however sometimes it will sink to the floor with little effort and i will have to take a second stap at it to change gears. I've tried bleeding the clutch a couple times and it doesn't realy make a difference (only for half a day maybe)

Just wondering what it could be, i have no leaks, a new master and the slave is of unknown age maybe 3yrs+

David.

 

[rob323]

Peel back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder, if fluid comes out, then its time to replace it or rekit it.

 

[EVO-00X]

Yup, what he said ^^^^^^ would also be worth taking out the slave and inspect the piston for pits and rust and make sure that it slides in and out easily (try not to lose or bend the spring when you take the banjo bolt out). Give it a good checkover, clean, then reinstall and bleed again with new fluid - get rid of the existing fluid altogether :wink:

 

[JayRome]

yer same here, once in a while you try to quick shift and it just crunches and wont let it in gear unless you double clutch it. but my slave is leakin fluid so at least i know what the prob is....... i have a second slave but havent had the chance to change them over.........

 

[mimmo_gsr]

Change these things BEFORE they fail on you.

I let a leaky clutch line go for a week or so and it ended up costing be $2000 for a gearbox rebuild.

I pressed the clutch and went for second on a downchange and all I could hear was grinding. The pedal went to the floor but didn't disengage the clutch so I chewed through the syncro and that was that.

If you are taking the slave off to inspect it, just relpace it as they only cost like $90-$120.

Mimmo

 

[BobWrinkle]

Slave is $32 ota from autopro

 

[rob323]

I paid $25 for a new slave and $10 for a kit (for spares)

 

[veerfour]

Ok I peeled back the rubber boot and sure enough it was leaking. I bought a new slave and replaced it bleed the clutch and took it for a drive.

The clutch felt much better but it still dropped to the floor every now and then.

I bleed the clutch again a couple of days later with help from the wife.

The clutch works alot better now however when i take any sharp left hand corners (sometime a right) the clutch will drop to the floor when i got to change gears.

Any suggestions...

Do i need to just bleed it some more (could it be an air bubble). There are no leaks and it works perfect unless you turn a hard corner and try to change gear.

 

[rob323]

Might have nothing to do with it, but check that all the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine are done up properly and the same with the engine and gearbox mounts.

Also stick your head up under the dash and make sure that the clutch pedal is connected to the pushrod properly (that the pin is there and the split pin that holds it in is also there).

I don't think bleeding it more will do anything, but do it anyway and look for any air in the line.

Are you losing clutch fluid at all?

 

[veerfour]

Ok i've checked the engine and gearbox mounts, the bolts holding the box and engine together are ok also there are no visible leaks (back of master is clean) or fluid loss.

I've noticed that i can push the end of the fork and slave piston back towards the engine quite easily, should it be easy to push back?

I then tried adjusting the clutch pedal to raise the pickup up point and it seems to be a little better but i don't want to raise it further as the pickup point wold then be too high. I might try to bleed it in its new postion.

Any thoughts

This has all started since i have my gearbox rebuilt and put a 1.2mm washer behind the pivot ball to compensate for the socket the fork. They said my clutch was over adjusted and wasn't bleeding back properly when the clutch was disengaged.

this is doing my head in

 

[v8h8a]

new clutch?

have you put an after market clutch in mate?

i had the same probs once i installed my HD clutch. I got the Slave and Master cylinder Sleeved in Stainless, and also had to change oil feed line.. it was the wrong one for the clutch...

 

[veerfour]

Re: new clutch?

Problem solved.

Even though the gearbox changed gears well the master cylinder was out of adjustment, there wasn't enough pre load of the clutch.

What i believe was happening was that the masters piston was baked out too far and the slave would push fluid back into the reservoir under cornering G's. This could happen turning either way because turning left the weight if the thrust bearing would push the fork back and turnign right the slave itself would suck back under it own weight.

Now there is enough load on the clutch not the push back as well as the pedal bottoms out before the fork does. The pick up point is about 3" up from the floor which is where TEAM RIP in the States recommend.http://www.teamrip.com/clutch adjustment.html

Also the gears change really well.