gsr wont start

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Parabola

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
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192
Location
Brisbane
hey guys,
i recently returned from the shops and tried starting my car, it ran rough for a few seconds and then died after that i was unable to start it.
i went out and got a can of start ya bastard, sprayed it into the air intake and it ran for a second or two before dying.
thinking it was the fuel pump was shot i just replaced it and still no good.
is there a fuse or relay maybe the ignition relay that could be causeing this.
there is power at the pump, it sounds like it doesnt prime.
the car is a cc gsr with a turbo timer (if that matters)
cheers for any help
 
have you checked that there is any fuel flow at the rail?........even though you cant hear it running doesnt mean it isnt because the std pump isnt that noisy. when the ignition key is turned to the start position the and released the pump runs for 5 seconds then stops if there is no ignition signal to the ecu.

so try starting the engine ...with the pump outlet to the rail diverted to a bucket or other suitable container that wont burn your car to the ground. no flow with confirmed power to pump usually means dead pump. flow....well look elsewhere.
 
I just replaced the pump with a brand new 1. I haven't yet disconnected the fuel rail. I'm currently picking ip a new ignition control relay, will swap that over when I get home. I had a similar problem with an old cc lancer of mine, turns out the ecu wasn't getting any power. I ran a wire directly from the battery to the ecu and it kicked over, hopefully it's not the same problem.
 
I had a car come to me that had recently had a pump changed .......the female side of the connector on top of the pump cradle had been "cracked" inside. presumeably from being wriggled out. power to the conector but not to the pump wires.


pain in the butt that was.
 
i just changed the ignition relay and nothing. ran a wire directly from the battery to ecu and nothing.
i have not changed the fuel filter though. can a clogged filter stop fuel from reaching the rail completly? as i have disconnected the rail and tried kicking over the car and no fuel came out.
 
i just changed the ignition relay and nothing. ran a wire directly from the battery to ecu and nothing.
i have not changed the fuel filter though. can a clogged filter stop fuel from reaching the rail completly? as i have disconnected the rail and tried kicking over the car and no fuel came out.

hot wire the pump to the battery.... if that works, find the fuel pump relay (usually located under your glove box or next to your ECU) and clean the internal contacts...

if all that works, id advise an upgrade to the stock fuel pump wiring....
 
Check all your fuses.
Do you have an alarm?
Check your main relay.
Check your crank angle sensor
 
ok so ive pulled apart the ecu thinking that a cap may have leaked, none had but one had abit of corrosion around the base so i cleaned it up.
the car doesnt have an alarm.
ive changed the ecr and nothing.
ive turned on the car and tested for power at the ecu with my test light, and i got no light.
ive checked all the fuses that i know of under the bonnet and steering collum, they all seem fine.
how do you check the crank angle sensor?
 
ok so ive pulled apart the ecu thinking that a cap may have leaked, none had but one had abit of corrosion around the base so i cleaned it up.
the car doesnt have an alarm.
ive changed the ecr and nothing.
ive turned on the car and tested for power at the ecu with my test light, and i got no light.
ive checked all the fuses that i know of under the bonnet and steering collum, they all seem fine.
how do you check the crank angle sensor?
if you got no light{power} at the ECU....check the ignition switch isnt stuffed.
 
So while I was wiggling the wires around the ignition, ignition relay and turbo timer, the turbo timer would turn on and off even when the car was turned off. The guy from lube mobile (big mistake) said there is no injector pulse, there is spark. He thinks that the ecu is fried and for the low price (his words) of $790 he'll replace the ecu which includes fitting even though I took it out and pulled it apart for him.
So I'm wondering if some wires connected to the timer and ignition relay are causing the ecu not to receive any power. Also while I playing with wires I did discover a wire from the timer (I think) that was cut but not connected to anything.
 
So while I was wiggling the wires around the ignition, ignition relay and turbo timer, the turbo timer would turn on and off even when the car was turned off. The guy from lube mobile (big mistake) said there is no injector pulse, there is spark. He thinks that the ecu is fried and for the low price (his words) of $790 he'll replace the ecu which includes fitting even though I took it out and pulled it apart for him.
So I'm wondering if some wires connected to the timer and ignition relay are causing the ecu not to receive any power. Also while I playing with wires I did discover a wire from the timer (I think) that was cut but not connected to anything.


does the timer have an off switch? or completey remove it and also any immobiler if fitted
 
The timer does have an off button, and I have turned it off but still no luck. By tugging the wires behind the ignition switch seems to turn the timer on and off.
 
Depending on how the turbo timer was installed this could be the problem.

Turbo timers usually consist of:
2 ign wires and 1 constant 12v to batt plus other misc wires depending make/etc.

depending on install method , you may have a break or poor connection. Solders can become brittle and crack, insulation may be opening etc etc.

Instead of just pulling wires, trace all the wires from the turbo timer and confirm connectivity.
 
I'd be looking at the Crank Angle Sensor first off.

Happened to my car... signs of the CAS dying was when I'd be at the lights idling, and then it would miss a beat, then two, then the engine would conk out and I'd need to start the engine again.

Eventually, it wouldn't start at all.

You need the diagnostic computer (PDA with software) to plug it into the ecu under the dash board to test the CAS, Dre had one, not sure if he still does... mechanics usually have these as well.

I'd doubt it is the ECU, if the car was running perfect before hand.

Crank Angle Sensors dying is very common in gsr's, definitely try a new one.

Fairly sure my injector pulse wasn't there, or the spark wasn't there when it died, I cannot remember which one or if it were both, when the RACV dude came.

I wouldn't bother with the Idle Speed Controller (ISC), it simply controls the cars idle, even if it were faulty, your car would at least still start then either conk out or idle very roughly up and down.
 

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