How to remove a cracked/stuck wheel nut?

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

Yeah, what 3zer said.

Also another way (you need to be very accurate with a hammer and chisel.)

Put the chisel on the loosening direction of the nut ie. looking at the nut, put the chisel on the Lh side at about 10 o'clock.

Then with a couple of good hard hits with the hammer it should loosen it. It *should* free up the siezed thread. Then hammer a shit socket onto the end and use 3zer's idea.

There is no way in hell it takes all day! They are trying to rape you for labour rates. Drilling is the quickest way and that should take 20 mins MAX if you know how to use a drill
 
Yeah, what 3zer said.

Also another way (you need to be very accurate with a hammer and chisel.)

Put the chisel on the loosening direction of the nut ie. looking at the nut, put the chisel on the Lh side at about 10 o'clock.

Then with a couple of good hard hits with the hammer it should loosen it. It *should* free up the siezed thread. Then hammer a shit socket onto the end and use 3zer's idea.

There is no way in hell it takes all day! They are trying to rape you for labour rates. Drilling is the quickest way and that should take 20 mins MAX if you know how to use a drill
 
Yeah, what 3zer said.

Also another way (you need to be very accurate with a hammer and chisel.)

Put the chisel on the loosening direction of the nut ie. looking at the nut, put the chisel on the Lh side at about 10 o'clock.

Then with a couple of good hard hits with the hammer it should loosen it. It *should* free up the siezed thread. Then hammer a shit socket onto the end and use 3zer's idea.

There is no way in hell it takes all day! They are trying to rape you for labour rates. Drilling is the quickest way and that should take 20 mins MAX if you know how to use a drill
 
is the wheel off the ground when you are trying it?
are the other nuts on when you try to undo it??

my point is basically, you'd want to take off as much weight off that nut as possible, so keep all the other nuts on, which will hold the wheel in place, and then try to undo that lock nut..

if the other nuts are loose, the weight is all on that one tight nut,
if the wheel is in the air, their shouldn't but much weight on the nuts at all
if its on the ground, it'll be harder

if its the front wheels, u can get someone to stomp on the brakes while you do it.. if its the rears, pull that handbrake up tight..

anyway, a big fat breaker bar should do it
if the nut is completely hacked (no socket fits) then weld another nut onto it and undo it...

hopefully your rims will come out okay!!

just remember next time... use some anti seize and torque them up to spec.. thats if you have a torque wrench (80 - 90 ft lbs is what u want)....

never use a rattle gun! they will hurt the stud threads...

i feel ya pain mate!!
if the stud is damaged, if if its the fronts, it usually means you have to pull the hub out and replace the bearing to access it... a real pain in the ass (vr4's anyway, not sure about evos... most likely the same!)
 
is the wheel off the ground when you are trying it?
are the other nuts on when you try to undo it??

my point is basically, you'd want to take off as much weight off that nut as possible, so keep all the other nuts on, which will hold the wheel in place, and then try to undo that lock nut..

if the other nuts are loose, the weight is all on that one tight nut,
if the wheel is in the air, their shouldn't but much weight on the nuts at all
if its on the ground, it'll be harder

if its the front wheels, u can get someone to stomp on the brakes while you do it.. if its the rears, pull that handbrake up tight..

anyway, a big fat breaker bar should do it
if the nut is completely hacked (no socket fits) then weld another nut onto it and undo it...

hopefully your rims will come out okay!!

just remember next time... use some anti seize and torque them up to spec.. thats if you have a torque wrench (80 - 90 ft lbs is what u want)....

never use a rattle gun! they will hurt the stud threads...

i feel ya pain mate!!
if the stud is damaged, if if its the fronts, it usually means you have to pull the hub out and replace the bearing to access it... a real pain in the ass (vr4's anyway, not sure about evos... most likely the same!)
 
is the wheel off the ground when you are trying it?
are the other nuts on when you try to undo it??

my point is basically, you'd want to take off as much weight off that nut as possible, so keep all the other nuts on, which will hold the wheel in place, and then try to undo that lock nut..

if the other nuts are loose, the weight is all on that one tight nut,
if the wheel is in the air, their shouldn't but much weight on the nuts at all
if its on the ground, it'll be harder

if its the front wheels, u can get someone to stomp on the brakes while you do it.. if its the rears, pull that handbrake up tight..

anyway, a big fat breaker bar should do it
if the nut is completely hacked (no socket fits) then weld another nut onto it and undo it...

hopefully your rims will come out okay!!

just remember next time... use some anti seize and torque them up to spec.. thats if you have a torque wrench (80 - 90 ft lbs is what u want)....

never use a rattle gun! they will hurt the stud threads...

i feel ya pain mate!!
if the stud is damaged, if if its the fronts, it usually means you have to pull the hub out and replace the bearing to access it... a real pain in the ass (vr4's anyway, not sure about evos... most likely the same!)
 
its the back right. I think when i was trying the other nuts were on, but the wheel was on the ground. I'll give these options a go tomorrow.

Unfortunately it wasnt me that tightened them up - it was a tyre shop using a rattle gun. They insist they didnt do them up too tight, but thats bullshit. I could barely get the others off.
 
its the back right. I think when i was trying the other nuts were on, but the wheel was on the ground. I'll give these options a go tomorrow.

Unfortunately it wasnt me that tightened them up - it was a tyre shop using a rattle gun. They insist they didnt do them up too tight, but thats bullshit. I could barely get the others off.
 
its the back right. I think when i was trying the other nuts were on, but the wheel was on the ground. I'll give these options a go tomorrow.

Unfortunately it wasnt me that tightened them up - it was a tyre shop using a rattle gun. They insist they didnt do them up too tight, but thats bullshit. I could barely get the others off.
 
The tyre joint should have to get it off and fix any damage, If you have a recipt for when the wheels were fitted there I would suggest you try and get them to face up and fix it. Where I work one of the Mechanics was renouned for doing nuts up way to tight with rattle gun and was bitten in the arse one day when this lady came in complainig after she couldn't undo the nuts after having a flat tyre. I do up wheel nuts with a rattle gun but am always consious of not going overboard, and never do up locknuts this way for the very reason you are having trouble.
 
no luck as yet - have taken it to a few places but no one could get it off.

Im booked in at a different tyre shop tomorrow, so they will spend the day with the car to try and drill it out. Im a bit concerned though that by drilling out the stud (not just the nut), it might affect the bearings.

The place that did it originally that put them on too tight wont claim responsibility. Their happy to try and fix it, but ill still have to pay.

So im taking it elsewhere. Im thinking i might send the original place the bill, and say if they dont pay it, then ill head over to consumer affairs.
 
Richard said:
I do up wheel nuts with a rattle gun but am always consious of not going overboard, and never do up locknuts this way for the very reason you are having trouble.
Click to expand...

One tire shop (Where i know the owners) Actually told me, if they do the wheel nuts up, only with a rattle gun, they can be sued (if a wheel comes off etc). They make a point of spinning it on with the gun, but doing the final Torque with a Torque wrench (100ft/p) i think it was :roll:
 
good news! the nut is off!

they ended up drilling out the stud just enough to remove the nut.

The stub of the stud is still in the hub!

The bloke assured me it is safe to drive on with only 3 of the 4 nuts for a while, what are peoples thoughts on this?
And howdo I go about getting the stud removed? He mentioned something about when you remove the disc from the hub, to change the stud, you will split the bearings and they need to be replaced. Is this true?
 

Similar threads

Taz
RVR HSGR Front lip group buy
Replies
3
Views
4K
Hrvat9
H
doommachine
Help me identify which wheel nuts I should use
Replies
3
Views
3K
doommachine
doommachine
BMGTZ
EVO 7 GTA
Replies
2
Views
1K
BMGTZ
BMGTZ
I
Tein coilovers, wheels, tyres
Replies
3
Views
2K
Ian91
I
O
Character building problems
Replies
7
Views
2K
OLDIE
O

Latest posts

Back
Top